xman

I still think it's because light designs are becoming very compact and more like point sources, so more lumens shone in an initally narow beam. Nobody has trouble looking at a bright clear sky but try looking directly at the sun. Matrix lights are a collection of point sources with tiny mirrors. With intense narrow beams comes problems with diffraction and deflection caused by imperfect and dirty optics and housings. And having experienced it I'm sure matrix light control is often flawed. What happens if the windscreen in front camera is dirty or has rain droplets on it?

I suspect its a egr valve problem.

If he hadn't anticipated the situation and finally just stomped on the brakes then ABS and ESC would have saved him provided it was early enough. They react quicker than even the most experienced driver. On more recent cars, AEB triggered by radar and cameras would have deployed and intervened. I think AEB is now compulsory on all new cars. A different outcome might be likely if a driver panics and attempts to do something stupid such as spinning the steering wheel in a misguided attempt to drive around a situation without the appropriate knowledge or previously acquired skills. Michelin have done extensive testing and state their tyres remain perfectly safe even at the current 1.6mm wear limit https://whattyre.com/news/michelin-why-we-need-to-test-tyres-when-theyre-worn/ https://www.tyrepress.com/2019/07/michelin-wet-grip-testing-at-1-6mm-will-provide-greater-transparency/ https://www.michelin.com/en/news/high-performance-tires-up-to-the-legal-wear-level/

If its been there since you bought the car, I'd hazard a guess that the "upgrade" is the issue and that's why the previous owner got shut. The unit may have come from a car fitted with a different TPMS system.

Maybe the ABS sensor(s) or ring(s)are faulty? Giving missed pulses so looking like a tyre issue rather than a solid ABS fault. Have you had wheel bearings changed? Check the wiring/connections to the abs sensors.

When a car experieces acceleration i.e braking or cornering, load transfer occurs in the opposite (vector) direction of acceleration. e.g. braking in a straight line, load is transferred to the front of the car, the front end dips as load transfer compresses the front springs , the back end lifts as it goes light and the springs extend. Distribution of that load is not dependent on tyre performance or grip capability. When I helped with some brake testing legislation in conjunction with HSE(m) the equations were straightforward, basic physics and maths. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weight_transfer An appreciation of that should help with understanding the limits of mixed tyre combinations and how they likely affect handling under certain scenarios, eg cornering "at the limit"

My advice may be of no use but on my Superb with Columbus MIB2, press Menu, select Vehicle, press the gear icon at the bottom right (settings) then scroll down to Tyres and select. Tnen you have the option the (re)SET the tyre pressure thingy. Which resets any current warning. Had to do it last week.

Ok, Mr Pedantic, I'll rephrase, tyres that are not "all season" or "winter" tyres. I think 99% of people reading will understand what I said.

The biggest load of tosh I've read in a long time. Ditto

I was in my Skoda dealer last week waiting for an MOT. Noticed Skoda advertising "the first bluetooth dashcam" iirc around £230 also "compatible with nextbase rear dashcams" Didn't read the blurb but assumed there would perhaps be no wires involved

I reckon over 90% of UK drivers will have standard summer tyres fitted all round, all year. Is that safe? A large proportion will be budget tyres. Never can understand why Mercedes/BMW/Audi/Range Rover drivers fit obscure Chinese tyres. Even funnier when I see heavily modded lowered cars with big bore penis exhausts on 30 profile ditchfinder iii tyres. I notice a lot of new low/mid range Skodas, VWs etc now come from the factory with budget tyres, e.g. Komoran and Nexen. And why do manufactureres think its safe to drive on skinny space saver spares that aren't even the same diameter as the others even limited to 50mph? Never mind load ratings.

There are many areas where the coolant could leak, the charge air electric coolant pump, and heating back up electric pump are candidates for leaks. See p 184 onwards of diesel workshop manual for details. Needs to have the car up on a ramp, remove the undertrays and a detailed inspection in all areas. The main water pump may be leaking, again visual inspection. Not sure but this may involve removing the timing belt cover. Check main radiator for evidence of leaks.

Skoda Superb Workshop Manuals are available here Look at the 1.6/2.0 TDI workshop manual pages 212 onward for full details The middle radiator (item 9) is the air charge cooler

I believe on the 2 litre diesel, the air charge cooler is water cooled. So if the leak started after it was changed, I think you need to look there.

No, not really. You're clutching at straws. When I switched to a 60w grade oil in my 1985 passat when it was drinking a litre every 2 or 3 hundred miles, it reduced consumption by maybe only 10% for a short while. The Mil spec oil cost me about 4 times the normal oil. Cost far more in oil than petrol to run. I accepted my engine was shot and gave the car away for £50.

There may be a battery sense wire that goes into the bolero, which may have become disconnected somewhere. Consult the electrical diagrams.

Hard reset is a term for a forced total power down. It is involed by keeping the power button pressed and power is shut off after 7 or 8 seconds as you have experienced. So you did a hard reset. Next thing to try is to do a factory reset. Follow the instructions in the Bolero settings menu. This clears everything in the Bolero and should be as it left the factory.

Which engine? Dsg or Manual?

Sounds as if a relay is not be turning on power to various modules. No idea which relay. There are apparently two levels of relays situated under the dash. Engine starting briefly and shutting down usually because the immobiliser hasn't recognised the key. Probably in this case because the module needed is not receiving power. Long shot, try the spare key.

Reset it to factory settings from the settings screen, should clear any corrupt memory that may be behind all this. Also ..... A hard reset is usually by pressing and holding the on/off button for at least 10 seconds, then the unit should switch off as in properly power down. Then press power button again for a clean power up.

At least one is still here but drives a low end EV now. Spends a lot of time driving around looking for free electricity from what I can make out.

You may be right. Under stupid new regs they have to sell iirc 22% EV this year or face steep penalties for every ICE car sold in excess. https://www.whatcar.com/advice/buying/what-is-the-zev-mandate/n26196 So that long list I referred to may be pre reg 2023

I think about "the best time to buy (for cash)" a lot. IIRC there was a Skoda email promo in Jan and an even more enhanced promo this month. "Special events" as Skoda puts it. Unusually this time the local dealer attached a very long list of brand new cars avaible for immediate delivery. Interestingly I was hanging around my Skoda showroom last week waiting for an MOT for around 2½ hours. Most of the time there was no one else in the showroom and no one in the used car lot outside. Then an (very) elderly couple came and were speaking for some time with a young salesman. I overheard a small part of the conversation and the sales guy admitted that there was extremely little footfall this month. He did say that normally March is much better with new registrations but then it falls off again. So this month may be a good time to haggle hard, especially if they've got stock. Then I feel you'll have to wait till around June when there is another lull. But Im hoping that car sales will be in decline all year, forcing manufacturers to put more incentives both to customers and to dealers allowing heavier discounts Even then I doubt I'll be easily tempted.

Decades ago (1998-2001) when the 1.9tdi AFN was king of the hill, there was a known issue with minimum cranking speed. Can't remember if it was 170rpm but it seemed that some bright spark had programmed that as a requirement to start injection when starting the engine. As starter motors became tired with commutator segments damage they turned over slower and the only remedy was to change the starter motor. Not saying this is the case here

You'd have to make sure both insert and housing threads are perfectly clean of oil, use a clean rag soaked in brake cleaner. Apply a minimal amount of loctite on the filter housing threads only. Clean up thoroughly after refitting to remove any excess. There should be no loctite at all on exposed threads, you dont want to loctite the oil filter! Reoil the exposed thread to ensure new filter goes on smoothly. As per usual practice, apply a thin film of clean oil on the rubber seals and some oil on the mating threads of the oil filter. Don't overtighten. As has been noted in other threads, make sure no other rubber seal has been left behind from the previous filter. https://www.mpulse.mahle.com/en/article/changing-filters-and-gaskets