xman

I had something similar with my 2018 1.4tsi Superb. After the 2nd service, I noticed a leak from the sump plug, dripping on my drive. Took the car back, and they checked the plug was correctly tightened to 30Nm. Still it leaked. So they changed the sump plug, and the replacement plug leaked. As they had seen this before, they contacted Skoda technical who told them to use an additional crush washer, which they did and the problem was fixed. They videod the whole process. The standard sump plug has a standard steel washer, sometimes fixed to the bolt with a weld at the side. So it seem that that the sump thread wasn't correctly aligned or the the mating face was machined slightly off. Or maybe just a bad batch of plugs with wonky washers or incorrectly machined seats. Subsequent services (3) I remind them to fit the additional crush washer. In the OP's case I feel the dealer mechanic tried to fix the leak by tightening the plug beyond the 30Nm specified and damaged the thread. Now trying to pass it off on the customer.

For anyone interested in detailed tyre analysis, I came across this guy who claims to be a tyre designer for the last 5 years. His reviews and analysis seem to be the most unbiased I've seen and reveals the compromises tyre manufacturers face when designing a tyre. I.e. there is no perfect tyre... https://tiredriver.com/goodyear-vector-4seasons-gen-3-review/ https://tiredriver.com/michelin-crossclimate-2-review/ https://tiredriver.com/continental-allseasoncontact-2-review/ https://tiredriver.com/improving-dry-performance-all-season-tires/ https://tiredriver.com/comparisons-reviews/

Did you measure the tread depths when new? The last Continental premium contacts I bought had less than 7mm tread depth when new and they also wore pretty quickly. That was a long time ago now before my policy to switch to all season.

Probably going to go with the Goodyears as they are considerably cheaper (almost £100 cheaper ea) at National Tyres than alternatives. Hope the prices don't change in the next 2-3 weeks🤞 I'll move the rear P7 tyres to the front if the fitters will oblige so wear shouldn't be an issue for now. I've run both original Michelin CC and Goodyear 4Season g2 in the past on our Fabias and Octavias. The Michelins both became unevenally worn (with significant tread depth variations in large patches) , non circular and very noisy but there were also many issues associated with the car (4 sets of inner track rods followed by a new steering rack and collapsed bearings in the final drive) and I'm not sure if the Skoda dealers attempts at rebuilding suspensions and tracking adjustments had something to do with it. Never seen that kind of wear on a tyre before and difficult to see,

It might be useful to other members including myself to know the exact model variant e.g 1.5SEL DSG + colour AND also the last 3 letters of the reg no. So that I or others don't end up buying it thinking its an ex demonstrator with no mention of its history.

Yes I know and don't want to turn this thread into a front/back discussion. I'd be interested to know how the Goodyear stacks up against the Michelin regarding longevity. Im surprised that the OE P7 wore so well, 55,000 miles for a front set! Rears not even half worn. In great condition and very safe handling. Only bad point is they are noisy on certain road surfaces.

That does look like the right key. Note the seller does not accept returns. Double check before ordering.

Sometimes its best not to say anything, this is one of those times.....

63 plate car will have the revised engine with improved chain drive so in my experience chain life is considerably longer (120,000+ miles v 60,000 miles in the examples we owned) A slight rattle on cold start ups for a couple of seconds (until oil pressure is established) is quite common and probably nothing to worry about. But if the rattle gets loud ( heard inside the car) on start up (usually happens after being stood a long time) and sounds painful, like a machine gun , this is the chain so slack it's riding up on the sprocket(s), IMMEDIATELY turn off the engine to prevent disaster. Wait 4 or 5 seconds, then restart the engine and hopefully the loud rattle is no longer there as the oil pressure on the initial start allows the tensioner to take up the slack and force the chain to engage the sprockets correctly. In this case its time to replace the chain kit (entire kit contains chain, 2 sprockets, tensioner and 2 guides). I had replacements done at around £400 each time at my Skoda dealer but the last was around 3 years ago. Tip: Don't leave the car parked in gear. In this design if the crankshaft rotates reverse to its normal direction then the chain tensioner can be forced back and the chain goes slack on the non tensioner side. It will then hang down off the bottom sprocket. If you must park in gear, use reverse gear if the car is pointing uphill and 1st if pointing downhill. Btw the ticking/clicking noise you mentioned in your 1st post is probably from the mechanical high pressure fuel pump located on the cam cover - big shiny hex head on top and 2 stainless steel fuel pipes. Can be quite loud at idle stood outside but inaudible in the cabin. Normal and nothing to worry about.

Have you checked in the polystyrene tools insert in the spare wheel, thats where they normally live. That ebay listing is not suitable. Several companies can help with a replacement locking key. Just need to determine the code which is simply matching your photo. https://carpartsstore.co.uk/product/skoda-locking-key/ Possibly this one? 776 S https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133936756338

2018 1.4 SEL Exec Hatchback Tyre size 235 45 18 After 55,000 miles the front OE P7 tyres are getting very near 2mm in the central ⅓ band. The outer ⅓ bands have more than 3mm. It looks like its time to get them changed before next month's MOT. I want to fit a pair of all season tyres. Either Michelin CC2 available as 94 or 98XL or Goodyear 4 Season G3 (XL) Any comments as to which of these 3 best suits my car? Longevity, low noise and comfort are important. Rear P7 tyres are still over 5mm, in good condition and will stay on.

70 miles inland. Car is parked outside on the drive like all my cars have been. On average, cars in our household go around 70,000 miles between disc/pad changes. These pads/discs went on at 65,000 miles 4½ years ago. Beyond the pad/plate interface the plates are in reasonable condition. Water between friction pad and backing plate is possibly behind the failure, but that shouldn't happen if bonding has been properly applied and fully seal the pad to the plate. @J.R.I recall in previous threads you said you have extremely poor eyesight 🥸 You can't really judge anything from those poor quality pictures as there is a 3d element you can't see. I'll update if I get any feedback from Bosch or ECP.

So that is a similar layout to the infamous Ford Pinto. Pray you never get rear ended.

Brake manufacture is constantly moving around factory to factory, country to country, continent to continent. Wherever its cheaper to make them. Many famous makes are just brand names belonging a holding group or licenced to third parties. Many famous brand discs are now made in China even India. The Brembo pads I've bought have all been chamfered. All brake pads sold in the UK have to comply with ECE R90 and so performance must be similar to OE.

So you are saying that catastrophic brake failure is relatively common and to be expected after 3 years? I think not. Virtually no one changes their pads until they are 80-90% worn or fails an MOT. I have never seen this before, I am surprised the pad even managed to leave the caliper area. The consequences were alarming. I don't want replacement pads, I would like Bosch to investigate the failure in their Quality control. And not close their eyes to this problem like Boeing did. Before someone gets seriously injured or even dies.

Reported to Bosch and ECP Regarding Electronic handbrakes, yes they still work as an emergency brake, but if you have ever tried it (as I have many times on my Superb) they are super aggressive and often lock up the rear wheels. Conventional handbrakes are controllable, electronic brakes are not. I was confused for a few seconds as to what was happening and in a motorway/fast road/ heavy traffic situation, I wouldn't have had time to think and react correctly and I very much doubt my handbrake would save me anyway. I would have just slammed my foot down and hoped for the best. In hindsight, the caliper piston needed to extend to accommodate the gap left by ~7 or 8 mm of lost pad, so I'm not sure putting my foot down to the floor would have restored any braking at all. Would I have pumped? Only if I had enough time to think and react.

Bought from ECP, as I recall in genuine looking Bosch box sealed with a holographic anti tamper sticker. IIRC it said made in Italy on the box. Looked genuine, doubtful ECP would sell fake parts

Fortunate too that car has a conventional handbrake and not electric parking brakes as thats what I had to use to stop the car. As the car had no brakes, I couldnt drive it to a garage for repair, so was forced to change the pads myself at home. Not what I wanted to do at my age and this time of year. Fitted Brembo pads from GSF.

Bosch Brake Pads bought from EuroCar Parts fitted June 2019 along with new ATE discs. So now 4½ years, 45,000 miles half worn. Leaving house, slow speed, suddenly loud banging, terrible noises and super aggressive snatching when braking. Then a big bang and no brakes. Partial braking restored after pumping pedal several times gently but obviously metal on metal and very little stopping power. Roadside examination showed friction pad had completely detatched from its backing plate. Pad thrown into road. Fortunate it happened within 20 yards of home and never went above 3- 5 mph. Would have been disastrous had it happened later in normal traffic and likely to have been fatal on a motorway. Cannot trust Bosch Auto parts ever again!! Bonded side of pad Friction side Part no

I returned from a funeral overseas just 24 hours before this incident collecting my parked car on level 2. I was thinking about extending my stay, lucky that my wife said no. Having driven and walked there, I have clear recollection of the layout. I can confirm the car pictured in the press, was definitely not in a parking slot but on one of the parallel access lanes and a considerable distance from the end.

Indeed, here in Yorkshire, some folk are ahead of the curve.

You should inform your insurance company that you've disabled a safety feature of your car. See what they say

Factory OE leads are made by NGK and all have a nominal 9k resistance even though different lengths. The VAG OE plugs are also NGK and have a built in 1k suppressor. Pregapped at 0.7mm Equivalent Bosch iridium plugs have a 6k suppressor pregapped 0.8mm, they work fine despite these differences.

Today I decided to finally look at properly addressing my smelly aircon. The problem is common. When you turn off your aircon, an awfull smell fills the cabin a few minutes later, particularly noticeable for the front passenger. This is because water condensed on the evaporator surface warms up allows a resident bacteria soup to become active and start farting as they multiply. I have a RHD car with climate control so they may be slight differences. I used a cheap aircon cleaner (bomb) about £4 from the usual places. Some may disagree with step 3 but this is what I did. Step 1. Remove the expanded polystyrene cover (stiff fibre cover on later models) in the passenger footwell. Pulling down carefully to avoid breaking it, if it isn't broken already. Step 2. Remove the pollen filter, pictures and instructions to do this are elsewhere on the forum. Maybe some kind soul will post a link. Clean out debris inside the housing, mainly tree/plant seeds in my case. Wet strong kitchen roll paper is what I used with some disinfectant. Only limited access is possible but removed/cleaned what I could. Step 3. Refit the bottom filter support bracket/seal but without the pollen filter. Step 4. Ignition on, turn on recirc, switch to Econ (no A/C). Check the recirc flap is open. This is the hatched flap in the pic below, under the housing in the top of the passenser footwell towards the door side Locate the aircon bomb using best Heath Robinson skills so it points directly at the recir opening. Step 5. Start engine, re-check recirc on, fan on medium, econ mode (a/c off), temperature to low. Set the bomb off spraying directly at the recirc intake and close all doors/windows. Leave for 5-10 minutes, turn off the engine and leave for a further 5-10 minutes. Step 6. Refit the pollen filter. In my case as it was relatively new I just cleaned it up with a vacuum cleaner. Step 7. Refit the polystyrene/fibe cover The reason I posted this is I never knew for sure where the recirc air intake was and previous attempts at using an aircon bomb without removing the footwell cover had not been that great at reducing the pong for very long. Only time will tell if this attempt is better.

The radiator fan cuts in whenver the coolant is too hot. So when you see the red temperature warning light on, pop the bonnet and look at the radiator fan. It makes quite a racket/roar when its on so should be easy to check. DON'T be tempted to touch the fan, you could lose a finger! If it's not spinning like mad, then you need to check the fuse, fan motor, connections, wiring and the thermo switch which afaik is mounted on one of the side cheeks of the radiator. @Breezy_Pete would probably be able to help locate it