xman

First thing would be to scan the car for errors with something like VCDS, OBD eleven or other OBD reader. That would give you pointers where to start looking.

Check you haven't inadvertently generated or copied a shortcut onto the card, easily done when copying and pasting lots of items

Known issue on some 1.5tsi/dsg cars. See if your dealer has any software updates

Does it have EPB, electric parking brake? These clamp the rear discs very hard when applied. In damp winter conditions, along with what I suspect is a pad composition containing copper, the disc corrodes under the pad while its stood and applied. You can usually see the imprint of a pad on the disc and if stood a while this is quite marked corrosion. This also leads to the impression of juddering under braking. Note the corrosion is usually much worse on the inside and unseen face of the disc, on the side where the piston is. A few sessions of heavy braking from spwed can usually clean the disc if the corrosion isn't too deep. A more effective method is to apply the electric handbrake while travelling at speed though this is dramatic, brown pants moment type thing. Definitely not for the light hearted. Should only be done in controlled conditions on deserted straight roads in good road conditions. Tyres need to be warmed up otherwise they will lock and ABS will be going like the clappers. Try the heavy braking before asking Skoda to look as they will simply say wear and tear and ask for £300 to exchange discs and pads. Warranty on brakes expires at 6 months/6500 miles, clearly stated in the small print. If you have a sympathetic dealer, they may give you some goodwill, but this is a rare occurrence.

I think its simply that, at the factory, they look at the order and if a projected build date looks too far in the future, maybe 1 year, maybe beyond a major price review date, or a model change or rejig, they will cancel it, they cannot afford to take the financial hit. More recent orders will be the ones likely to be affected I would think. We know that production of around 16,000 Octavias have recently been borked by the fire in Mlada Boleslav. https://m.facebook.com/prewaveai/videos/a-fire-at-a-grupo-antolin-factory-in-mlada-boleslav-a-town-to-the-northeast-of-p/621567819065278/?locale=ms_MY&_rdr&_se_imp=2B6nzIElOVEgAjJWQ

The 1.6 TDi is crap anyway.

As usual Audi get first dibs at new features, followed by VW then SEAT and Skoda a long time later. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/vag-com-discussion-51/new-q3-mib3-fatal-error-3010951/

Might be cheaper for you to take the all in package. 2 year warranty, 2 services, 2 Mots, and 2 yr breakdown cover for £32/month https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/all-in-service-plan

The dealer must be really looking forward to your next visit ...😆

What a faff, even worse than Microsoft Windows.....

One spark plug? You need to change all 4, if no.1 is worn, they are all worn and if you're lucky to get it working ok changing just no.1, the others will follow in short suit and take the coil down with it too. You didn't say how long the current spark plugs have been in? Have they ever been changed? And if so, by whom and with what? I ask that because another poster bought a car with the wrong plugs fitted whoch You will need a boot puller, don't pull them by the lead, because you will break the lead internally. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS5293-Spark-Plug-Lead/dp/B001K4EAHY And you should check the leads are good and intact. Measure the resistance using a multimeter, should be around 9kohm for genuine leads. Faulty ones will be far higher resistance or more likely open circuit. Faulty leads will cause misfires and kill the coil after a while.

Yes. You thought wrong 😉

Firstly, the broken PCV valve is not the cause of the misfire/shuddering, it just means oil mist making a mess at the bavk of the engine. Yes it the classic PCV broken end. You need to source a new one £10-£20 I paid around £16 at the skoda dealer but that was about 4 years ago. Need to attempt to recover the broken part still in the rubber grommet, I couldn't, and Ive not read of anyone who did but in my case, pushing a new one in the broken bit caused a heart stopping moment when I heard a crunching noise and the cranking almost stalled as it obviously got chewed up in the valve gear. Full details here on how to replace

Assuming this is the CBZB chain driven cam engine......EA111 engine Pop the plastic cover off the top of the engine and visually inspect the coil pack for signs of tracking/melting from the ht lead connections. If it looks ok then New spark plugs needed first. NGK or Bosch Iridium plugs are required. Whilst changing plugs, check leads are not open circuit (should be 9k ohm resistance). Use the correct tool to pull the spark plug boots off to avoid damaging the leads. If misfire still still there then change the coil pack, theres only one But make sure you buy only a good quality one and not a cheapie, theres little difference in price anyway. Usual sequence of events Worn out plugs-> intermittent misfire under acceleration -> overvoltage at coil-> coil insulation breakdown and failure Plugs should have been changed at 60,000 miles with either NGK IZFR6P7 or Bosch FR6HI332 (0 242 240 665) Skoda Part no. 03F905600A or direct equivalent, must be fine tip Iridium/platinum construction to last the distance. Do check we're talking about the correct engine and not the later EA211 engine which is a cambelt engine. If that's the case its different spark plugs and individual coil packs per cylinder. No HT leads. You need a different special tool to remove the coil packs to avoid damage. Those spark plugs need changing every 40,000 miles (double platinum fine tip). EA111 engine EA211 engine (LHD version so brake reservoir is in wrong position for UK)

Presumably there's the danger of scratching/scuffing/abrading the plastic covers. Same instruction applies to all models.

Sorry to break this to you, but that white stuff on the moon is not snow. I don't think anyone's driven a Skoda to the south pole either (yet) Pointless video No Metallic tint tested unless I missed it. In any case a "metallic" tint is not the same as a heated screen with wires or electrically conductive film thick enough to take many amps. Radar guns operate in the 30Ghz range ACC radar in the 80GHz range, a short 1m range doesnt test for diffraction, most important in ACC which has to maintain a very tightly controlled beam pattern. I'm sure if it was possible to do simply and cheaply it would already be standard on lots of cars.

Heating the sensor cover requires electrickery that wont play well with the radar.

Useful photo! @KorayGurel

The thing thats wrong imo is the loud "Bong" sound. Used for many functions, such as ice warning, speed limit exceeded (but that can be turned off) and various fault warnings. Its an annoying sound, someone at Skoda thinking we need a Boeing or Airbus type sound, and make it loud too. Ideally a different, less in your face, less intrusive sound should be available, make it selectable, volume adjustable, or even a verbal warning like satnav. Different sounds for different warnings even with a little more plain english text coming up on screen to help people not panic or think "what the hell?". But English is not Skoda's strong point. If they were mean enough they could even sell it as an option pack.

Works on android 11 phone. Sounds like a typical noisy diesel to me.

I was wrong, no counter clockwise movement. From the photo, I think that the clip ends are held (locked) in U shaped cutouts. The inner side of the U being just enough to hold them so more of a J So squeeze together, pull back towards you and though the bottom of the U and the clip ends should then be free to spring open on the long part of the U cutout nearest to you. Hope you get what I mean. Once unlocked you might need to help spread the clip to release the bulb. A clearer photo would be useful.

Have just studied the wording a bit more, I think what it means is squeeze the 2 loops together then raise them - edit: removed wrong instructions ....

Two types of lamp fitment depending on type of headlight, yours has the locking tabs (those loop things) which need to be moved to release the bulb. Note there is no turning of the bulb with your setup! See the workshop instructions below for more specific instructions, bit difficult to follow I must say...

Make sure its not a used one though.

😜 You paid how much??? 😆🤣 Didn't anyone tell you its only a Skoda 🤪