xman

Did you stop filling at the first click off point? If you continued to brim the fuel tank lots, i.e. grossly overfill it, then its possible/likely that the EVAP system and its carbon canister have been flooded. That will put the EPC light on as the vapour recovery system is compromised and cannot function properly. If you're lucky, the carbon canister will dry out, the EPC light will go out and all will be well. If you're unlucky, you could be looking at an expensive repair.

I'm totally confused with my car, 2018 1.4tsi SEL executive. I've filled up in the past just after the low fuel light came on, needle sitting at top of red section, 70 miles left and got over 76 litres to 1st click. Now I'm looking at my car having done 502 miles since last refill, needle sat at halfway, and range left claimed 377 miles. Do I believe this? I think I must have at least an 80 litre tank. All driving has been at Motorway limit, computer usually saying 50-54 mpg average on long runs, though last time I topped up I calculated only 42mpg based on top up quantity over trip miles. (That was the one time I had used regular rather than usual super-unleaded) Tomorrow got a 200 mile round trip, dare I trust the 377 miles left indication? An hour later and.....I decided to top up the tank, just over 44 litres so 51mpg actual.... (Super unleaded). Still non the wiser re my tank capacity.

The way to tell if 2 cylinder mode is to blame is to see if the vibration is only present when the 2 cylinder mode is active. As I explained there is an indicator on the dash that tell you when it is active.

Dear Victor, The front indicator on a 2020 is an integrated LED part of the the LED headlight unit. Not changeable, unless you change the whole unit at about £1000 ea. and have access to all the right tools, workshop manual and diagnotic equipment. In fact most of the bulbs on your Superb are integrated LED and I suspect you know that, those few that are conventional incandescent are easily checked on line. Edit: seems I'm wrong about the front indicators on a 2020 superb, sorry for the confusion. Surprised that the indicator is not a dual purpose DRL/Indicator strip like on my 2018 superb, maybe only on SEL trim. Please see @DeeDah's post below for further clarification.

Plenty of online bulb finders https://www.osram.de/apps/gvlrg/en_COM https://www.philips.co.uk/c-m-au/car-lights/car-selector-tool Likewise plenty of oil finders online https://fuchs-tps.lubricantadvisor.com/ https://fuchs-eu.lubricantadvisor.com/default.aspx?lang=eng&country=gb https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/search Just about any place that sells spares can check for bits that fit your car Or you could simply phone your dealers parts department and ask, if they give you a part number, google will tell you what it is and probably show you a picture too Or remove the bulb to check. The Owners handbook is an operating manual and not a maintenance manual.

You may be experiencing the slight shuddering/roughness when the engine is operating in 2 cylinder mode. You can check when this is active on the maxidot, the small eco symbol appears in the bottom of the display. If you select the fuel consumption page, it will give a large text message when 2 cylinder mode is in use. When you put your foot down on the throttle, it will exit 2 cylinder mode and the vibration should disappear. The vibration/shuddering is felt most during low revs (between 1400-1700 rpm) and near the allowed power limit of 2 cylinder operation (25% of max available torque or about 60Nm). Which is on a very light throttle position. Its worse with some engines than others, and in my experience using super unleaded helps reduce the effect. Most people wont notice it though. If it annoys you, simply change down a gear (easier with a manual than a DSG I appreciate), it will still end up using 2 cylinder mode (more often in fact), but once the revs go above about 1800-1900 rpm, it will be more or less imperceptible, you will also find the engine more economical in that rev range and the DMF will not be under so much strain, so its life will be prolonged. The other possibility is your tyres/wheels are unbalanced, but that usually is felt at a higher speed of 100kph+.

You may find its actually the small rectangular blanking plate to the left of the climate control unit thats a loose fit and rattling. A finger on it while its rattling will confirm. Easy to pull out and you will see why its loose and rattles. That was the issue with my 09 fabia.

You'll be able to check from the engine code/serial no, you may find this on your V5 registration document or on recent skoda service documentation. DADA = no GPF fitted DPCA = GPF fitted

Your car is fitted with a particulate filter (GPFs were compulsory after June 2018 iirc), so your dealer may be using a totally unsuitable oil. Castrol pro 5w40 oils are 502.00 ACEA A3/B4 spec 1.5tsi with GPF calls for a 508.00 oil with low SAPS, 504.00 oils with a low SAPS may also be suitable (as a top up, not sure about service fill) I note that 502.00 is not listed as suitable in the owners manual (2019/11 build) https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/ Even the castrol oil selector shows only their LL4 508.00 and LL3 504.00 oils are suitable. https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/recommendation?vehicleType=cars&manufacturer=skoda&model=karoq-nu7-(2017-)&modelType=karoq-1-5-tsi-(110-kw)-pf-(2018-)

Skodas are made out of cake, marzipan, jelly and icing.... here's one being built in the Skoda factory. Simply not so clever

It may be due to rust on the rear discs. Even though I park my Superb in a dry, slightly heated garage with the parking brake off, after a few days , I found the rear pads stuck to the rear discs due to a build up of rust on the rear discs - but the rust is only in the area where the pads are. The inner (hidden) face has much more rust than the outer. Not sure why this is, I think the pads are somehow hygroscopic, as it even happens if the car was throughly dry and the brakes warmed thoroughly to ensure they are completely dry before parking up in the garage. If left for over a couple of weeks, the rear wheels will thump badly when I drive, even without any braking, when its even worse. It takes a lot of heavy braking to clean and slowly restore a quiet ride. If you've been parked for a long period (weeks) outside, you may find the rear discs are completely knackered on the inner faces (which can only be seen on a ramp). The rear discs/pads are known to be made out of rubbish low grade material (see other threads in the Superb 3 forum) On the other hand, if the tyres got that badly out of balance you may find that they are no longer circular, but are now mishaped. I had this happen to a pair of Michelin cross climates (on a Fabia) for reasons unknown except it had been in the dealer for major repairs to the gearbox and front suspension and they had swapped the tyre positions again for reasons unknown. Try swapping tyres front to back and see if there is a difference.

You need these, Osram Ultralife H7 - 4 yr guarantee, £5.59 from Eurocarparts, just as bright as normal H7 bulbs. (Eurocarparts Product Code: 48177022L)

I think you will find the "approx reverse capacity" is simply the approximate amount of fuel (6l) left in the tank when the low fuel warning light comes on. Tanks are made from plastic and aren't made to precision dimensions so the frequent use of the word approximate. Never overfill the tank, stop when you get to the first click off point. If you fill the expansion /filler tube there is a real possibility you will flood the EVAP system with neat fuel and ruin the carbon filled evap cannister. Not only will you get eml light on, but you will possibly have an expensive repair bill as happened to another member who reported his experience.

So I look at the infographic above and what do I see? Oil service = oil/filter + 5 mins to check to see if upsell discs pads possible Inspection = things anyone can and should do regularly, eg do my lights work? Check tyre pressures etc. Insp. Expanded Scope = Inspection + just a couple of things of the loads of things MOT would check anyway. Strangely they check the engine oil level, presumably because it might have leaked after the Oil service that was carried out minutes before. Oh I forgot, they lubricate the bonnet lock, and check your interior light comes on when you open a door, yeah....

Good luck with that. If you do happen to find this mythical document, do let us know......

Reminds me of the awful lime green colour that Ford tried in the 1970s. More yellow than green.

Well you could always take the nuclear option. Do a factory reset. MENU>SETTINGS>FACTORY SETTINGS

Navigate to the Bluetooth settings menu, there you can delete any paired devices such as your phone. Not knowing what specific car/infotainment you are looking at, but probably MENU>SETTINGS>BLUETOOTH

Yes the CTEK 5 charger is safe to leave connected as it goes into float mode once the battery is "considered charged" Ctek mxs 5.0 manual Just make sure you connect your charger in the correct way to your car. Positive lead to the positive battery terminal, negative lead to the chassis tab on the engine bulkhead and NOT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. This is so the battery mangement on the car can monitor the charge going into the battery.

I think if you examine the invoice it will entered as a negative figure of minus 2500 pounds. They may call it a deposit contribution, but on the invoice pricing column it is a discount. When VAT is added to the total, you have an effective £3000 discount, so Skoda "contibute" 2500 and the UK VAT man loses 500. Of course its not really a contribution or even a discount, but the underlying real price, presented as an effective marketing tool to make you think, ooooh, thats nice......where do I sign....... It also acts a great blocker for salesmen to say, no more discount is available sir we've already given so much..... Skoda UK dont care about buyers who are foolish enough to pay cash without jumping through the relatively simple finance/cancel hoop, more money for them.

Smart chargers will tell you a battery is fully charged when the absorption phase charge current (with approx 14.5v applied) drops to around 10% of peak bulk/absorption current (i.e. down to approx 500mA in the case of a CTEK 5A charger), or the absorption phase times out (approx 8hrs in the case of the CTEK) This of course is not true, at best the battery will be at 90% but could be considerably less if the battery is tired or got stubborn hard sulphation or the cells are unbalanced significantly. Most smart chargers then switch eventually to a maintenance or float mode where the charge voltage is lowered to around 13.6 volts. Initially charge current will drop to zero until the residual surface charge is dissipated, and then the current rises again to somewhere below the 10% level. The charger can be left on indefinitely in this state as the float voltage is well below the gassing voltage for a lead acid battery. Because of the chemistry and construction of lead acid, the battery will continue to charge, the charge current will continue to drop towards zero as the battery is fully charged. IME this topping off charge will take at least 2 days, considerably longer still with a tired battery to reach somewhere near full (provided the internals of the batterry aren't too far gone) For information, the standby current taken by my Superb's electronics when its parked is approx 15mA average which means it will drain the battery by approx 0.3Ah per day. On top of this, batteries experience self discharge due to various reasons, age, temperature, internal condition etc. This internal discharge (and cell imbalance) is impossible to monitor externally and is likely the major reason the car's battery management gets out of whack with battery's true SOC and HOC. So its always worth a good lengthy (min 2 days) charge before writing off a battery, but first check the charger supports the float/maintenance mode.

If you have a decent charger and put the battery on charge for 48 hours continuous if possible. You will possibly find normal service is then resumed.

Don't think you need worry. Its close coupled to the combined turbo/exhaust manifold high up in front of the engine immediately behind the radiator under a shield. You'd need to have access to the top of the engine and lots of time with the right tools.

Very much so.

https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.hartleywintneymotorsuk.co.uk