xman

Very probably its the revised engine. Post the 2012 change, the ignition leads are protected in corrugated trunking (marten protection) pre 2012 change engines had plain leads (with some extra plain sleeving in places). Not a 100% check since those plain leads often failed (in particular no.3 lead) and so could have been replaced with the revised style. It should have the larger oil sump capacity 3.9 litres v 3.6, and latest chain design. I ran an Oct 2013 Fabia 1.2tsi (86ps) for 120,000 miles without any chain issues (10k oil changes) before it got written off by a taxi driver in a hurry. Our other Nov 2011 1.2tsi Octavia was rattling on many cold starts before 40,000 miles /2yr old (18k oil changes initially but later 10k). Dealer/skoda refused several times to acknowledge a problem under warranty, I eventually paid to have it changed at 70,000 miles with the revised designed camchain kit. Now on 150,000 miles without further chain issues.

Check/change the spark plugs. This is the most likely reason imo, as the eml light comes on when misfires detected and goes out automatically when misfires stop. £10 for a set of new bosch plugs from ECP. Scan car for OBD error codes if you can, an obd reader can be bought for £20 Burnt/worn exhaust valves/seats are a known issue on high mileage HTP engines that havent had regular oil changes, symptoms would be judder under hard acceleration I think, compression check required to confirm My AZQ 2004 HTP engine had a stuck egr/sensor at that mileage, but eml came on permanently though engine ran normally, no juddering.

The Amundsen fitted now is MIB3, the 2017 SEL would have had Columbus MIB2 high (2.5). With MIB3 gone are the SD and sim card slots, DVD/CD slot and now has type C USB connectors instead of type A. Map updates are only over the air, not sure of they are still lifetime or just 1 or 3yr, you can't use a USB stick to update. To use certain features requires annual subscriptions, apps, connect and data or so I am led to believe, after 1st year free stuff. No music storage directly on Amundsen, you need a usb stick or Bluetooth from your phone iirc. MIB3 is allegedly very buggy and generally horrible in Amundsen form at least. There are threads on Briskoda that discuss this at length. Around 2017/2018 there was an SEL and an SEL executive, not sure what the difference was. Think its only SEL now.

Things may have changed since I was an Electronics engineer designing hardware (and firmware) 15+yr ago. ICs could be ordered in 3 temp grades. Consumer grade 0 to +70C, Industrial/Automotive -40 to +85 C, Military -55 to +125 C. Anything above that required exotic tech such as silicon carbide which I think is the realm of power semiconductors. Even with good heatsinks, chip temperatures can be tens of degrees higher than heatsink temps. I've never felt the ecu heatsink on the Superb too hot to touch (60deg C), I would say it probably runs up to 45 deg, battery up to maybe 40 deg C, I only check when I put the battery on charge straight after a run, if the battery is hot I'll leave it a few hours before connecting.

That photo is not my car, it belongs/belonged to another Briskoda member, I just grabbed it off the Briskoda gallery. My engine bay is almost as clean, only done 8000 miles in 3 and a bit years and getting OCD in my retirement years (caught it off the missus). No top battery cover on mine though just like yours and I've noticed the battery gets pretty hot too. Possibly due to the micro hybrid battery management with constant discharge/recuperation charge,

Mine is mounted under a large heavy steel black bracket, larger than in your picture. That acts as a heatsink I think. Like this Maybe they are using cheaper thermionic valves 😜

Skoda source parts from many suppliers so could even be different supplier depending on the week it was built. Probably the cheapest supplier at the time. I would recommend FAG bearings.

Not only cut corners but scrimp on costs and many are hamfisted too. My dealer refuses point blank to tell me what oil they use but keep on insisting that is 502.00 oil and is the correct oil for my 2018 1.4 tsi CZEA despite the factory embossed label on the slam panel that says use 504.00/507.00 oil. Skoda UK customer services told me the correct oil is 508.00 oil. And guess what, after the first service I struggled to get low 40s mpg whereas before it was high 40's easily (average over the first 2 years, before first service) They also appeared to have overtightened the sump plug (my assesment looking at damage to steel washer on returned item that I always insist) so come the 2nd service a new one fitted leaks and now needs an extra crush washer, which they claim is the advice from "Skoda technical". Many Independents are no better, I just just changed my sons Octavia oil, boy was that sump plug tight! Well damaged steel washer again! 30Nm should make only the lightest imprint. And often when certain independents have removed wheels to carry out repairs or change tyres, I've had to use my 900mm breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts. Fortunately without damage to the locking nut.

No special procedure. You will probably need a filter removal wrench or tool as garages seem to like screwing them on really tight, either that or the seals expand and make the filter really tight so unless you are a gorilla, you probably won't spin it off by hand. Once you got it moving it'll go ok. Remember to stop spinning after a couple or so turns, you may hear the oil draining, I can't remember, but it's fairly obvious. Allow a couple of minutes for the filter to drain down and then spin it off and carefully lift it out and move it to a safe storage area, there will still be some oil in the filter. Once you got the filter off, the housing will still be relatively full of old black oil, so check the large rubber seal came off with the filter, otherwise fish it out with your fingers. Best to check anyway in case some muppet didn't remove the one last time. Putting the new filter back on, lightly oil all the rubber seals and just screw it on until firmly hand tight, enough to make sure the seal is seated and the spring has compressed enough to hold the seal shut. It'll be obvious how the seal works when you look at your new filter and push it in with your fingers. Don't use the removal tool to tighten it, as you will probably overtighten it making it difficult to remove next time or in the worst case distorting the seal with all the problems that can cause. Important! Cover your alternator and aux belt area with something before removing the filter, as some spillage is still possible when removing. I used a Laser 3801 tool to undo these filters, mine cost about £9 from ebay iirc though there are cheaper equivalents or alternative filter removal tools.

At risk of waking the 5w40 gruffalo's on here I will only say this. Lower viscosity -> lower friction Lower viscosity -> higher flow rate at constant pressure Lower viscosity oils advertise benefit of lower fuel consumption. So not surprised at what you've seen. Just make sure your oil meet the manufacturers specification for pd, vw 505.01 ...cue yet another everyone's an expert on oils thread. So for that reason I'm out.....

@edbostan is right. The bottom mating face of the EA111 1.2tsi filter is fitted with a large sprung rubber washer/seal. When the filter is screwed down this washer seals off an oblong drainage channel back to sump. When changing the filter, you unscrew the filter 2 to 3 turns, this is sufficient to lift the seal clear and allows the full of oil filter to drain back to sump. After a minute or two you can then unscrew the empty(ish) filter without it spilling oil all over the front of the engine and alternator. There is a different design of top mounted upside down filter on the 1.2 htp, but the principle is the same, the filter is normally full of oil, it will not drain back until you unscrew the filter cap that holds the paper filter, but dont lift it out of the housing for a minute or two to allow it to drainall the oil down through a now open drainage channel. Here's a photo of the EA111 1.2 tsi filter housing with filter removed. The smiley mouth is the drainage channel that is normally closed off by the filter sprung seal. And here you can see the wide sprung seal under the filter. The central flat one not the outer seal.

Judging from the big mutiway connector I've always assumed its the main ecu. Mine gets hot too. 1.4tsi but looks identical layout.

Back when I had an Alhambra and was a member of a Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra forum, a common fault was a melted engine bay fuse box, the one with the hefty fuses. The cause was a badly crimped alternator lead that overheats and makes a mess of the fuse box.

Have you checked the bulbs are actually installed, and they have not blown/broken? I spent some time fretting about why both fog lights weren't working on our previous fabia, only to find the filaments in both bulbs broken. No sign of bulb ageing or blown due to useage. Even though hardly, if ever used at all, I guess their position low down on the bumper subjects them to lots of vibration and occasional knocks. Those filament bulb DRLs don't have a long life due to being a large bulb (21w iirc) on most of the time in that low down, prone to high vibration, position so the previous owner may have just turned off the maxidot option when one or both had blown. Like we did on our Octavia, when I couldn't pull the combined fog/drl housing out and didnt want to risk breaking something.

Op profile says they are "somewhere in europe" In certain European countries, use or even the physical presence of a dashcam is illegal and banned. Austria, Portugal, Luxembourg for example. Other countries there are strict legal restrictions, France and Germany spring to mind. As far as car warranty is concerned, the OP should consult the terms and conditions of the warranty that applies to their particular circumstance and location. Be it Skoda factory warranty, dealer warranty, approved scheme warranty or other third pary warranty that applies. If still not sure, a call or email to the local warranty provider should answer the question, should make sure they get proof of their answer in writing if theres any doubt. The vast majority of Briskoda members live in the UK and have UK registered and spec cars with UK warranties and UK laws apply. So are not able to answer the OP's question with any authority. To me, in the UK, it seems a strange/daft question to ask but then we have more freedoms than some in other countries. If you make alterations, say to a wiring loom, it may have implications.

Changing a clutch pack on a dq200 gearbox is a complex procedure, more than just remove and replace. I believe it involves numerous shims selected by measurement and then a calibration procedure that may require specialist diagnostic equipment. Its also possible, and given that this was a sudden fault, that its not the clutch pack, but the mechatronics unit has become faulty. A common problem being the pressure accumulator housing fractures and low pressure unable to move the clutch solenoid valves adequately. So unless this garage has done these before and has the right knowledge and training, think twice. Even in main dealers there are often tales of escalating costs due to unsuccessful attempts at repairs.

Iirc its important you remove the ABS sensor before you remove/refit the bearing as it can get damaged. 3 yrs ago I bought a FAG 713610470 bearing kit for £40 from ebay and had it fitted my dealer for £94. Sadly my dealer will no longer fit customer supplied parts.

As with any car this age/mileage a thorough inspection and a test drive by someone who knows what to look out for is essential. If you can't get someone with experience/knowledge then you should understand the risk. If its a private sale you have no comeback once you buy it. And beware, people selling privately do lie, and don't divulge problems even when asked a direct question. It could be a good car, a gem even, on the other hand it could easily be a world of grief. IME no problems with the cam chain drive if it has had regular annual oil changes and a sympathetic lifestyle. By that I mean properly run up to temperature and taken on regular longer runs. So just driving occasionally half a mile between holes on a golf course or to the local shop only would be probabably classedin my book as harsh useage more likely to lead to engine problems. For reference I have/had two 1.2htp fabias, one did 130k before sale, only problems with the engines/gearboxes were ignition coils (exceedingly common) and a duff egr at 110k, the other we still have at 95k only ignition coils needed changing. No chain, valve problems, none used any oil. BUT they both had lots of long distance useage. So I couldn't comment without a good look at it and in any case it would have to be a very attractive price, probably under £1000, in case its a turd. Brakes are ime a big issue on these Fabias (as indeed on most Skodas) so inspect and budget if in doubt for new discs, pads, and rear shoes. Also the rear shocks may have demolished the bump stops by now, so compromising the dust protection covers. Someone who knows would know how to check. Front wheel bearings are known to fail, need a special tool so a bit more expensive to change than you would expect (around £250), we recently had a broken front spring too. Lack of any recent service history, even when it had its last couple of oil/filter changes would be something to be wary of, reduce your offer accordingly.

Sounds very much like another coil has gone. The OE ones are rubbish and fail. I can recommend BBT ignition coils available from Eurocarparts which have been very reliable for me at a little over £23 each. Recommended to check or change spark plugs if its been longer than 30,000 miles since last change as worn spark plugs requires higher voltages to ignite that strain the coil packs. I use basic Bosch plugs that are around £3.50 ea and are excellent, last well in the HTP engines.

I can't comment on your Sealey charger's reconditioning mode. These modes are used to try and recover deeply discharged and sulphated batteries using high voltages and pulse techniques to do so. Without knowing much about your charger, I would not risk using this mode while the battery is connected to the car due to the real possibility of damage to the car's electronics. First check your charger (instruction manual) is designed for use with the battery type that is fitted. Your car will be fitted with either an EFB (enhanced flooded battery) or an AGM (Adavanced Glass Mat) type. Usually it's printed on the top of the battery If not specifically referenced in the manual, your charger may be designed only for conventional flooded batteries, and may not be safe to use on your battery in this mode. If you decide to give it a try, you should disconnect the battery from the car, say unfasten the negative lead, tie it safely out the way and connect the charger directly to the battery terminals. Then try the reconditioning mode. Follow the instructions and heed any warnings. If the battery starts to gas (bubbling sound) or the battery starts heating up, switch off the charger immediately. Do not remove the charger leads until you have switched off the charger to avoid the possibility of a spark that might ignite any vented gas. Have you an AGM or EFB battery? Capacity? What is your charger model number?

Hold on, before you do anything.. ... It needs a good recharge to 100% with a decent charger before you condemn it. Many low battery issues result from low useage and the car's battery management state of charge calculation getting out of whack with the true state of charge. (Micro hybrid system see below) Needs charging for a minimum of 24 hrs, preferably longer and watch out how you connect the charger. As per Skoda user manual, the negative charger lead must go to the chassis tab and not directly to the battery post. Unlikely that anyone can check the alternator as these are smart alternators controlled by the battery management and give out a variety of voltage outputs depending on its algorithm which will only confuse someone checking with a voltmeter and likely to tell you its broken when it isnt. Alternators rarely fail nowadays. A new battery needs "coding" in which requires an appropriate diagnostic tool, to inform the battery manager that a new fresh battery has been fitted (change the serial no), whether its an EFB or AGM (setting=fleece) battery and its rated capacity (Ah). https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/ A good supplier of batteries at reasonable prices is tanya.co.uk they do a massive range. Others can probably give you recommendations as to preferred make, capacity, model, EFB/AGM technology. To extend the life of batteries in cars like the Superb that use start/stop (micro hybrid) technology, its highly recommended to attach a decent smart charger from time to time to top up the battery fully. Normally these batteries will sit at only 70-80% state of charge (SOC) because of the way the battery management and recuperation works, over time SOC will go even lower as the battery monitoring has limitations, it cannot, for example, track self discharge which gets worse over time. Eventually this increasingly lower SOC kills the battery prematurely if allowed to persist for too long due to irreversible sulphation.

Its a little ironic that a hacker like Uwe Ross makes loads of money hacking VW protocols and puts a load of barriers in the way to stop people hacking his hacks. Although OBD2 protocols may be public domain, VAG proprietary coding and protocols are most certainly not. Imo Rosstech, Obd eleven, carista and others are all hacker products, relying on information on forums or insider contacts to develop their products further What I find objectionable is when someone finds a successful hack to add or change features on their car, then publishes it on their or other public forum, firms like OBD eleven just grab this information and monetise it as a one touch function. And not giving any guarantee it will work or not brick/damage something in your car. Just a disclaimer buried in the small print to cover their backs.

7 speed dry box is DQ200 only fitted to engines under 250Nm torque, so only 1.4tsi, 1.6tdi or 1.5tsi engines in the Superb. 7 speed wet box fitted in cars with 4x4 I think, 6 speed wet box in 150ps diesel until iirc sometime around 2018, then changed to 7 speed wet box. Some 7 speed wet boxes after around 2018 went to 80,000 mile oil change as opposed to standard 40,000 mile. There is a table somewhere on the forum showing this information all in greater detail and clarity. Perhaps someone can point it out.

Might be just t&cs Resale:

Maybe it is a genuine lead but something has been hacked to change a one vehicle licence to unlimited vin licence, which may be what makes Ross-tech say its a fake (licence)