xman

Nothing to do with his car or knowing how to drive. Plenty of threads on Briskoda about 1.5tsi issues. Well known characteristics of a significant number (but not all) of 1.5tsi engines are severe cold running hesitations, kangarooing and general intermittent and spurious total loss of power. None of which is accepted by VAG as a problem but then they say the same about DQ200 dsg boxes too. To this day, still not known if resolved, or even if VAG made much of effort to resolve the issues. Many theories spouted on here but no answers, solutions or warranty from VAG - its simply a characteristic, live with it, is their answer. In comparison the 1.4tsi suffers none of these issues and is generally praised as being an excellent engine, performance and other wise.

Do a hard reset thus......Press and hold your finger on the on/off symbol for a good 10 seconds. This will shut the unit down completely. Let go and after after a few seconds press it again normally to turn it on. The unit will restart.

Well done! I bet that was a relief. Don't forget to cancel your appointment with National Windscreens.

First check that you have reconnected the radar unit properly...... 3 things you can try before a visit to the stealers. Use an appropriate scanner to reset any errors, could be simply a latched error like classic airbag error that requires resetting via OBD. Drive around a bit, with a few restarts, it may require to see the radar connection is stable before clearing down, a bit like the EML does after a faulty coil pack change. Check the unit is simply not a bit skew whiff, cable pulling it back or mounting springs not pushing it into correct position. You might even try a minor tweak of the adjusting screws (make a record of any adjusments so you can undo yoir attempts) Lastly, remember glass companies such as Autoglass do ADAS recalibration, probably much cheaper than a stealer who might also try to convince you need a new radar unit for several hundred pounds.

https://www.myurbancar.com/2020/10/16/common-pitfalls-in-setting-up-local-ev-public-charging-part-1-cost/

Long term observations, MY2018 superb 1.4 SEL with Columbus fitted with OE 59Ah Exide EFB battery, most runs, short, long, with low loads the battery almost always ends ups parked in my garage at approx 80% SOC. (As determined below) For my car (no KESSY), at 13.5 volts, standby quiescent current drops to 10mA when everything has gone to sleep (which usually is no more than 3 mins). Every 10-20 mins, something wakes up for around 30 seconds or so and the current increases to around 50-60mA. I think its the phone subsystem. I am confident the average is under 15mA which is 0.36Ah per 24hr. Too complex to explain my methodology in any detail, briefly I use a variable Lab power supply with accurate voltage and current measurement and determine the total Ah charge to fetch the battery to a full 100% charge, which usually takes at least three or four days depending on the charge voltage I set. (Taper charge, this is all you can really do with a lead acid battery, they won't be rushed to 100%) Older and partially discharged batteries of course may exhibit additional self discharge and lose capacity with age, cycling and elevated battery temperatures which are seen during even normal use. This is all I have to say on the subject, I barely raised enough energy to post this (pun unintended) so don't ask me any questions.

Without listening I can't tell for sure but classic engine knocking (as opposed to tapping) sounds are due to either 1. Low oil pressure or blocked/low oil flow somewhere. 2. Worn small/big end bearings or piston/cylinder wear/slap. As yours came on suddenly after an oil change/additive, Im inclined to think no.1 Sometimes engine flushes/additives have aggressive cleaning that high mileage engines suddenly can detach carbon/sludge and end up blocking an oil pickup/feed/gallery. Not sure there's an easy fix for this. Still think compression pressure test might reveal something.

Why you shouldn't use additives https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/196980-review-liqui-moly-cera-tec-friction-modifier-my-skoda-laura.html#post4372920

What on earth possesed to add this junk to your oil? No additives should be used in motor oil. You are asking for self inflicted trouble. Confused, what engine cover with rusty bolts? There is no engine cover on a 1.2tsi that I know of. Do you mean camchain cover? Surely not the cam carrier/cover? There is something wrong with No.1 cylinder with 2 spark plugs one suffering loosening and then another new plug damaged in a short period. (Gap should be 0.8mm on the Bosch plugs, that No.1 looks as if the ground electrode is bent, and the centre electrode has been somehow hit (iridium alloy is very hard) and thats whats probably behind the loose rattling terminal end, its broken internally, you might conformnthat with a continuity test (should be 6k ohms) Previous use of antiseize on the sparkplugs was very strange and a bitnsuspicious. I guess something is broken or found it's way into cylinder 1 and is loose (maybe the knocking). Borescope and pressure testing is the way to go. Loudish tapping noise btw is just the high pressure fuel pump (normal). Knock sensor signal is a red herring, it just determines ignition advance limit and you will always get one cylinder dominating the knock limit. Ignore that.

I think you'll find that 5mm offset is within Skoda manufacturing tolerances for skoda suspension setups and all approved tyre and wheel sizes. The OP's suspension mods and/or oversize tyres or aftermarket wheels are likely beyond or incorrect to Skoda specs. What I am saying is I have my doubts a new beam axle would fix the offset. A bent axle would push the tyre geometry inward rather than outwards. So its probably just manufacturing tolerances on floor pan mounts plus beam axle dimensions. If one side is 5mm different to the other, then its out only 2.5mm from centre. So floor and axle being 1.25mm each out could be sufficient to get this shift. Long shot but try checking bushes for wear or offset. But for a sub 2.5mm clearance in the outer arch, obviously either tyres are too wide or the wheels are the incorrect offset (ET), are they aftermarket? And you haven't fitted spacers?

Not a sticker but part of the original printed artwork on the box. A tetrosyl product I've just noticed.

What I meant was do an oil reset first, turn off ignition, then do an inspection reset. Turn off the ignition straight after. i.e. don't skip the oil reset message first time..... IIRC in my old Alhambra and Mk2 fabia both with basic lcd readouts, the insp warning used to hide an underlying oil service warning. I had to do an oil service reset, before the inspection reset could be cleared.

My £5 footpump from ASDA has TUV certification, and its pressure gauge is completely useless and grossly inaccurate and after a few uses, it fell to bits. I see TUV certification stuck on all sorts of chinese tat, so it means absolutely nothing to me.

Just a thought, have you done an oil service reset first? Something tells me you need to clear any oil service warning first before you can do the inspection reset. Might be wrong though. Oh, and fairly certain doors, bonnet etc have to be closed while doing the reset.

Considering the OP has a budget of 800 euro for 4 wheels, all this the talk about exotic wheels is moot. My advice is.....stick to OE, no need to worry about compatibility, PCD, ET etc.

A selection of OE here https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/superb-3/spare-parts/accessories/wheels-steel-aluminium/aluminium-wheel-578.html 2 years ago, the Pegasus 18” 8J alloy was listed in the UK accessories brochure with a slightly different part no. to the spare part equivalent and available from dealers at half the price of the spare part. Some briskodians bought them and there is a thread on here. Skoda UK accessories brochure part numbers and prices here SUPERB Accessories Brochure - October 2019.615e7c4ccfe8ff238d6f95a0cbe5101a.pdf

From my experience (2013 estate) the rear axle mounting points on the floorpan appeared to be welded in place and so no adjustment possible. It sounds like your car received a big knock on one side and either the floor distored or the rear axle beam got bent. Car body workshops have tools that can measure and straighten things up.

Judging from recent trends, Skoda models seem to be losing more and more things as MY's go by. They might get basic Led headlights as an upgrade, but other things suddenly disappear, boot torch being just one example. Infotainment gets updated, but where there was once a Columbus, now you get an lower spec Amundsen and so on. "Improvements" include all the latest EU diktats such as lane assist. Also I notice now introduction of e-sim in latest models, no more external sim. I'm not sure if that ties you in to exclusively using Skoda as your infotainment data provider with associated ongoing costs. https://skoda.cubictelecom.com The main issue with the 1.5tsi are some continuing reports of low speed hesitancy (kangarooing), can't be certain if this "charactaristic" has been fixed once and for all. Could be that My22 will see mild hybrid as only option in 1.5tsi guise (dsg only)

You do know that Skodas bought in the UK usually have free 3 year breakdown cover that covers Europe too? https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/roadside-assistance If you think you are a dab hand at changing plugs yourself, a couple of useful tips.....you really need to use the correct coilpak removal tool (about £30 on ebay) as its easy to break apart top and bottom of the coilpak if its not removed correctly, leaving the rubber boot part stuck down in the cylinder head, difficult to remove then without workshop tools. Torque wrench and long reach plug socket ( not sure if thin walled) etc also needed, note, the plugs dont have a crush washer so need for torque wrench. Changing the aux belt, requires special tools too. Plus all the tools to remove the airbox, pipes etc to gain access. Its much more likely a coilpack will fail rather than a spark plug. Personally, I've never seen an aux belt fail, ever All breakdown service vans will usually carry many spares, VAG cars are not uncommon.

Its just you.

No idea, but they look cheap enough to give a go.If I were you I would message or phone them and see what they say. Phone is 01689 850008 according to website. They also trade as Express keys and may be a one man band locksmith offering his services.

https://www.keysinthepost.com/product/skoda-flip-key-blade/

Didn't think my little unwoke joke would spark a passionate debate. Just to point out to @Llanigraham that I only posted here because @J.R. incorrectly dragged my name into this thread when he should have quoted @Expatman's name instead, as that is who I think he was responding to. But apparently he's half blind and getting on for being half french and always a bit grumpy so I suppose I must make allowances before filing a slander suit. ( that's yet another throwaway joke btw for any briskodians who missed it) I will leave the thread now, my honour hopefully restored ...and fully awake btw.....

So move the spark plugs around and see if the fault moves. Probably as its unlikely that a valve problem would be a sudden event unless something broke (did the old spark plug have any bit missing?) Check for rodent damage somewhere on a loom.

Didn't see that! But they (or rather the local version) may be able to remote unlock it if the vehicle is internet connected as someone suggested earlier. No idea if that is possible. Doesn't look as if the OP is going to update us....