varooom

Yes there is both a high and low pressure egr system for that engine.

All tyre pressures have been checked? Sorry if you've already done this.

In the garden at the moment, unless someone else replies soon. What's your engine code? (V5 should show this)

Good you found the fuse and stuffed it back in. You're right on diagnostic equipment and knowing how to interpret, not being too literal. Thought was to see if you had any short to earth reported things of that nature, as can help you narrow down your focus. Mentioned the water as it was raining, and you had issue's, then after a few days with car sat up it was good for the drive home, could be a red herring. Offer still stands if needed.

This one million percent, it helps anyone else that gets the same fault to solve theirs. And everything else you basically said.

It does sound like some water got inside the car maybe? Cannot be certain that is the case, as you may have some temporary issue that might become permanent in time. Have you still got any scan tools left over from your retirement? There are members with access if not, and I'm not too far away if stuck for a scan.

I think you'll be ok, as long as it's not a wall of text, or the timeline of events jumps about you'll be just fine. 😁

Welcome, hopefully people can assist you shortly with any questions you may have.

@Gmac983 I have hit unexpected patch of standing water, despite driving to the conditions as @Breezy_Pete said. Entry onto a dual carriageway via slip road in the dark whilst raining, a blocked drain had covered the road from one side to the other (slip) and when I clocked the let's say lake, I let off the power, and didn't brake, just let the car go straight. Then again I did lots of miles and had experience, most people I used to say "put their brain in a pickle jar in the glovebox, as they won't be needing it" Generally most people cannot drive for toffee, and would fall to pieces when the white stuff hits, or the rain comes down. Edit: for clarity Pete's right about driving being a forgotten art.

Hopefully they can get some life out of it. SW1898 & SW1890 is out for VW/Seat... But as usual Skoda is behind. Hopefully they release this OTA at some point, but don't hold your breath. The post above @DaveFromSydney is having issues with voice commands, certainly plenty of bugs going round. Best of luck they get your iPhone talking to car once more.

That might be a good idea

You just need to make sure it has the Italian tune up once in a while, keeps the DPF clean enough for most. Definitely shouldn't be a worry at that mileage. p.s. you don't even need to thrash it hard, just a long motorway/dual carriageway for roughly 20mins, 2,000 to 2,500rpm if you check your manual it states process in there in case your engine states slightly different.

I am sure you do know your way around the codes, it was to basically say the dealers can be very hit and miss, TPS tends to be best bet I've found, normally quite friendly and accommodating to fitting part's that are greyed out. I've walked into TPS many times, a sale is a sale. I guess they don't generally sell to "public" but I was operating a business, so they didn't bat an eye lid.... definitely one to try next time.

Incorrect, they get full of soot all the time. Every single time you drive it, but the system will burn off the soot one of two ways. Passive: So as you drive down the road, the heat from engine will burn off the soot. Active: When you are not driving it hard enough, and the soot hits a level that needs attention (22g I think) then it will start to inject extra fuel post combustion to flamethrower the DPF to get it "cooking" to burn off the soot. Usually you will have higher tick over of about 1,000rpm and cooling fans will be on, and when you end your journey they will still be spinning after you get out. The oil ash is what is left over after burning of soot, this cannot be passed through the small holes in the DPF and after a fair few miles it will need cleaning/replacement. VW documents state to check at 120k, and every 10k there after. Typical life is 200k with maybe 240k at a stretch (everyone's mileage will vary)

@rum4mo Anything "greyed out" just means that it wasn't fitted to the car from factory. It can mean it was never meant to fit, but odds are the person didn't want the hassle of selling something that might not fit. TPS are you best bet, as they use the software all day long, and if lucky with who you encounter, they will more than happily sell you what was needed.

Part of the lock mechanism itself (internal) so very easy to see lock mechanism.

I'm fairly certain there's no "sensor" but a switch in the boot lock itself. It will tell car if locked or unlocked.

You did write a lot, but probably still missing some information. Need to know car (this detail doesn't show on mobile/tablets) The low battery light on the dash is actually telling you that there's a charging issue. This will drop the Voltage available, and control modules don't like low Voltage, so no doubt rest of dash lit up, or you have many fault codes stored now. Ideally you need to find someone with VCDS / VCP if you don't have it yourself for a scan.

Yeah not one I'd like to tackle if it was.

Can you imagine 1Z3, if your tank size doubled. So yup all 1Z0 to 1Z9 are all fuel fill at factory.

@rum4mo Hopefully it's not leaking from evaporator inside the car, bit harder to see.

That would have been ideally in your first post. It could be your boot lock is kaput or wiring loom damage in that location.

Odds are you will get better success with a native USB-C stick rather than the SD Card reader. No idea why it worked once, and once only, SD Card read only? Maybe it was trying to write some meta data or file onto the card and failed?

My point to explain was that during the SW update I do believe it gets reset and maybe needs to have features switched on by factory. The software is capable of everything, and depending on what features you should have, the factory has to send codes into the radio. Anyhow best of luck with tomorrow's phone call.

This is where I saw the message https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503487-skoda-kodiaq-infotainment-not-working/?do=findComment&comment=5672891 Please note this is for a different radio, but the message/process should be what I was talking about. So sadly you are at the mercy of the dealer and how full their book is (unless this bumps you up?) Also you maybe able to enter some menu on yours to locate the same information to lookup your activated licence(s)