varooom

Cannot edit my post, some forum bug there. Feature to stop clowns editing posts for changing the narrative. @JR RS 1Z2: Increase in initial standard fuel filling, sadly nothing about tank size increase, that will be down to another PR code. 0I0 to 0I5: Fuel Tank, size not specified 0M0 to 0M9: Fuel Tank, again size is not specified

I've twice rescued a child locked in a car with none other than prying top of the driver door open, to then reach in with a coat hanger to ping the door unlock. One was a neighbour with a Renault with a key card for ignition, and they left their child asleep, and I had to ping the button on the small fob, was like tiddly winks. Second I was flagged down and they locked kid in the car, luckily it was older VAG with door unlock button on the driver door. Both kid's safely removed. Some mechanic's / roadside recovery have a small hand sized cushion you inflate to make a gap in the door.

OM1 to OM8 iirc O1O But they all decode to "Fuel Tank" No idea on capacity 😆

Maybe there's no alert for emergency braking, it just does it? Sorry don't have the technology fitted to my car, but perhaps someone does know. It would appear your radar is working correctly, so that's a plus. Edit: Seems there is a message.

@nta16 Just a footnote to say be careful when considering a good/bad 12.x to 13.x Voltage as it can depend on the battery technology as to what is considered good/bad. Basically no two batteries are alike (from a technological view) https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/efb-or-agm-which-battery-do-i-need

I have sent you the location of them all.

Might be wrong, but sounds like the wiring loom that feeds the DAB aerial and camera has broke. Where it feeds from main body via the rubber grommet to the boot.

Take a look here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ I use VCDS mainly, but they are not cheap. Many fairly cheap scanners online can just about read the car, but wait for some answers, or look on the thread location. Edit: Start with driver door as it gets the most use.

2nd that, good products.

Yeah going to be hard without tool to read fault codes, as we can only apply best guesses. The fuse that went, was probably a warning that a wire was shorting, and it did its job. Start with the rubber grommet between door and body, carefully try to look for a broken wire. Maybe look online somewhere to purchase a cheap fault code reader that can scan / erase codes if possible?

Could be amusing if your CTS is now reading your fuel temperature. Hopefully not, but will keep fingers crossed, and keep eye on progress.

If the door cannot communicate the actual lock status, then your blinkers cannot confirm either. If you have access to a fault code reader, you might have a short to earth or some such.

I was on the phone to daughter so missed it 🙂

Yes, not saying it is the fault, but would be worth a peek inside.

Wiring loom where it passes from pillar to the door? Common for broken wires in that location.

I believe it was marked read message, but no reply. I guess could have thought PDF was a virus.

Yes that's sod's law. If you was to probe each of the injector's with a wiring diagram, you could check Voltages, resistance and continuity from A to B (ECU to injector's) If you find a fault, you can at least get a definitive answer, and then you can fix loom (if skills allow) or get it fixed knowing that you've pinpointed the issue (hopefully) Sadly odds are you may not have needed that injector fitting, you'll kick yourself as I would.

Pretty certain they will need to activate it.

Not good news I'm afraid. CAYC does not have a mini loom option for just the injector set like a different engine code above. You are looking at £400-600 depending on which gearbox you have and when exactly your car was made. And fitting such a large loom will not be an easy task. If you are still going with DIY choice, then get a multimeter to start probing.

At that many km, odds are the DPF is at the end of its life. Oil ash accumulates over a long time and cannot be burnt off. I guess depending on local laws if you delete or replace/clean.

Should be on your V5 document in the UK. VCDS scan logs can also show you if that is your tool. Address 01: Engine (J623-DBKA) Going AFK for a few hours, so take your time.

You should rule out charging issues from the Alternator system and check the battery health. Low Voltage will cause many systems to fail, leading to you chasing your tail. Fairly recent threads on the forum for power related issues.

Well here is an example loom, take a look and see if you think you can deal with a few plugs 🤔 Shouldn't be too technical to fit, cost is around £100+ You may wish to flesh out your profile for the year your car is. Also to find out your engine code, as this will be important to get correct loom. Ring your local dealers or TPS to get price and exact fitment if another way. Cheaper for now, is to get a multimeter (or borrow one) for some reading of the values on the loom connectors. EDIT: I am not suggesting you actually replace the loom! But you can get a multimeter or at least get a price for the part. Should you go down the replacement loom option, then best provide your 3 or 4 digit engine code (should be on your registration documents)

Hats off to you for actually coming back to say it's fixed and to actually provide some details for anyone else that has the same issue! Kudos to you for taking the time.

Mucking about with wiring looms is best left to the experts. You mention you have a fault code reader, VCDS? I presume you was able to clear existing code. Does the code clear now, or is it now a permanent one? https://www.obd-codes.com/p0204 It's a sort of generic code that covers several possible faults in Inj 4 Going back to earlier, maybe whomever fitted the injector should carry on the work?