sepulchrave

Go for it, the safety police will be along shortly to tell you off but Hilka stuff is OK.

The ECU calculates the fuel correction using information from the EGR cycle time because it's controlled by PWM, the MAP and the TPS, so it knows everything it needs to know to apply an algorithm. These things are not a matter of faith or belief, they are cold hard facts. You are not controlling the engine, the ECU is, it's completely FBW.

I read your reasons, put politely they're incoherent which is why I threw you the link. If you follow it up you'll find that what you're looking for is more EGR, not less or none. Ask me why performance tuners delete the EGR system.

Here is some very useful practical information: http://origin.autospeed.com/cms/title_Tuning-for-maximum-fuel-economy/A_113199/article.html

EGR is an efficiency strategy on petrol engines, it significantly reduces pumping losses on part throttle giving real improvements in fuel economy during lean cruise. Deleting EGR can never improve efficiency for this very reason.

You'll notice a drop in fuel economy, an increase in emissions and no improvements at all, a remap might increase power fractionally, but probably no more than 5%. You're barking up the wrong tree.

Yes, an extra £200 would have been worth it for peace of mind.

Faulty coil pack is favourite.

It means your DPF is clogged.

The pistons should be ok, it'll be the valves that are bent and not seating properly.

All four-valve engines are the same, even with perfect timing the valves run very close to the piston crown, hence the cutouts.

Check battery and earth connections for tightness, clean and grease connections where necessary.

Switch off the ASR, the hesitation should vanish.

That's a lot of oil leakage, it suggests the turbo is very worn and the intercooler is probably full of oil as well, I wouldn't be surprised if the impeller is showing signs of wear and there's excessive end play in the shaft. Take off the TIP and have a look.

This ^^

I would check compression if were you, the valves may well have been damaged by the slipped timing.

You make it sound simple, but it isn't. Even with a car right in front of me I can't always accurately diagnose a problem because modern engines have become so complex and so many systems have complex interactions which are not easily separated from each other. Back in the old days you could say, "it's the ignition" because there was no spark then break it down further and eliminate components until the problem was found. Imagine how much harder it is doing this remotely where your eyes and ears are a person five thousand miles away who has no experience to draw upon and very few tools or skills and often cannot even articulate themselves properly in English.

Read the rest.

You can't damage the valves so don't worry about that.

The idea is to ensure the lifter is squashed flat by the valve springs because the spring in the lifter will make setting the gap tricky. The oil in the lifters drains away when the engine is not running.

Engines with new hydraulic tappets are always very noisey when first started, you just have to grit your teeth and let the the engine do its thing, best done from behind the wheel while driving it!

I'd set them to 12 and 16 thou cold, inlet and exhaust, then let the lifters settle once running, the lifters are designed to take up the lash, they can't force the valve open unless the rockers are too tight.

JR is right, all you need with new tappets is little bit of clearance, this then vanishes once the lifter is oiled and running.

They don't need preload, those instructions assume that you're reusing the old tappets which are already partially pumped up. You've fitted new ones which are already completely compressed so the setting procedure is different.

KW are a quality alternative, Koni even more so.