sepulchrave

Absolutely not, I was completely serious, there is nothing wrong with the car, there was no sarcasm because it doesn't work in a written context. You have totally misunderstood my post and taken it completely the wrong way which is your fault, not mine.

An engine won't run if it's that lean, it'll just stall, even a slight air leak makes the idle unstable so whilst your theory is sound, it's practically impossible.

I would say CTS but you say you changed it last year, what sensor did you fit?

It should fit ok.

Just stay on top of scheduled servicing and you'll be ok, I wouldn't throw any more crap at it though or it'll join the ricers in the weeds!

Ok, it has about 220 BHP and is running about 2.2 bar boost, if the clutch doesn't slip then it's already been done, what's high mileage in this case?

If you want a boost gauge then write 1.8 bar on a post-it note in blue crayon and stick it wherever you like If you want more poke then remap it. If you want even more poke, you fit a slightly bigger turbo, FMIC and remap it. If you want yet more poke then you fit an even bigger turbo, 4 bar MAP, a stronger clutch and remap it. Once you get to about 220BHP you'll need induction and exhaust mods. Get the picture? it's really nothing like a rice burner whatsoever.

Ok, you need help. It's a DIESEL so forget EVERYTHING you thought you knew about engines from your rice burners. It has a vacuum pump, there is no throttle plate so no manifold vacuum available. The turbo uses a VNT so boost is constantly being adjusted by the ECU to suit the conditions. EGR delete means nothing on a diesel, loads fit them and tuners tell tall stories to sell their shiny bits of crap but they don't do anything.

Because most of us who drive to work at silly o'clock on a frosty morning do so alone, so the passenger side heat pad is never needed. I realise that Aspergers completists would be incapable of driving a car knowing that a part of it wasn't working but there aren't that many of them about despite their heavy presence on the forums.

Apologies, I thought it was a 1.9, ignore that.

Unfortunately there are some contributors here who are more concerned with being 'right' than with giving best advice so you have to wade through a filthy tide of copy 'n' paste BS to get the simple answers you need!

SMF, I'm amazed you even have to ask. Fit DMF, no rattle.

Also, most of the PD130 engines make closer to 150 BHP standard so in reality they're much closer than they appear. If only the Ibiza weren't so damned ugly.

https://images.app.goo.gl/n14XHynLSWBvKDKu8

...and you might find a 'how to' for cruising on grindr

Dude, if you can't remember to turn your lights on when it gets dark you probably shouldn't be driving!

If the heat pad has failed you might be able to swap it with the working pad from the passenger side, before someone froths and sperges that it's a different part number, I reckon it'll be an easy mod to get it working despite any difference.

An entrepreneur, that explains everything. I myself am not, I rely on others to do that bit, I have no interest other than general technical considerations.

No, I'm not really a 'driver' per se, but I can fix anything that has moving parts. What's nuts is that you just WILL NOT permit any view that varies slightly from your own, and that your own view is based upon historical ownership of one of these mythological beasts together with masses of anecdotes gathered from the Internets, then randomly pasted and smeared over every thread you consider faintly relevant. My experience is that an engine is an engine and that I'll work on anything if it pays properly. My guess is you that needed professional help back then and that it cost you a lot of money.

This is nuts, if they run as rich as you say then they'd never pass an MOT. Full boost and hard acceleration makes sense as that's when the mixture would be leaning off the most and therefore the hardest to ignite leading to detonation. My read of the oiling up would be due to localised overheating of the piston crown leading to pinched rings and smeared ring lands. Bear in mind I've seen just about every kind of engine failure mode there is with both two and four stroke engines over four decades and I can tell you there's nothing new under the sun. Yes, there's no science in wittering on about plug brands, it's all anecdotal.

My daughter got one from Autoglass, more by luck than judgement I suspect since the fitter remarked on the rarity of it.

Uprated coil packs are a wise precaution, they'll give a more consistent and fatter spark, particularly at high RPM where any misfire will become detonation and quickly melt the plug ground, the Iridium electrode itself is not generally the point of failure, it's an artifact of stratified direct injection coupled with high boost pressures, these engines run so lean that detonation is almost certain once the ECU loses control of the point of ignition.

Check alternator output and battery voltage. ECU cuts power to the steering when the voltage drops too low.

Nothing melts plugs faster than detonation, the coil pack upgrade together with Iridium plugs will provide the best protection against it, the new E10 unleaded fuel should also help provide additional protection.

No, you want a vacuum extraction machine or better yet a steam cleaner.