sepulchrave

Exactly, like I suggested vastly more NGK plugs installed. I strongly suspect issues with heat range, even Iridium can't save a plug from melting if it's overheating badly enough and it's generally only the electrode itself that's made of rare metal.

No, the reason is that there are vastly more NGK plugs installed, it's simple statistics. This is what I mean by anecdotal.

You have to accept that this is a community with many contributors and you must allow it to function in that way, yours is not the only voice which needs to be heard. You do not have primacy, most of your experience is as an end-user and most of your evidence is anecdotal. You may groan but you name-checked me and directly contradicted my reasonable advice for no obvious reason and it's not the first time either, you're a repeat offender which is why I'm calling you out here. Please allow the rest of us to continue to contribute without intervention when intervention is not required.

There's no need to be rude, it just sounds petulant and stupid. I understand you want to be the big cheese of the twincharger club and wear the big hat but if you look at my advice it is very reasonable. I advocate the use of Iridium plugs only and endorse the various specifications given in the list of suitable plugs pinned up. However my professional experience means that I don't endorse any particular brand, there are only a handful of factories worldwide which supply Iridium sparkplugs and frankly they're all top quality. Personally I've used NGK since the 1970's and hardly ever had a faulty product from them, they were the first mass market manufacturer to really nail their quality control.

Look, brand really doesn't matter, no large company has perfect quality control, you'll always find someone who's had bad luck with this brand or that brand, the important thing is getting the correct specification for your engine. Brands are for amateurs.

It was humour, spark plugs are incredibly simple devices that have changed little in the last hundred years, Iridium plugs are what you want for the VRS since they don't wear out as quickly as others, it doesn't really matter about brand, get whichever offers the best value at the time you're buying.

They're two entirely different companies.

It is correct, it's a vent, the EGR is electrical, no vacuum.

It should be 14.4V while running, if it drops too low the ECU will cut power to the steering and you'll get your symptoms.

Have you checked the alternator output?

It's your Lambda probe because the engine is stalling when it goes into closed loop once it's hot enough.

Dude, the ECU will not inject the fuel if there's no spark, the pump may work but the engine would flood if it injects fuel without ignition. No spark = no fuel.

Is this a joke thread? Man goes into a doctors and says doctor can you take a look at my pen15, proceeds to flop said organ out whereupon doctor inspects it thoroughly and says she can't find anything wrong with, man replies: " I know, lovely isn't it ". It is now. Come back if it all goes horribly wrong.

Maybe, these cars are getting pretty elderly now and many are not very well looked after.

It sounds to me like it's immobilised if you can crank it and it won't spark or inject fuel.

OMG, it's a cut 'n' paste off!

If you go to an independent specialist with a borescope they can take look inside cylinder 3 for you, they can also do a leakdown test to tell you if it's the valves or the rings. I daresay the dealer just did a basic compression test then wrote the engine off.

Bad luck, curse of the VRS strikes again and claims another victim.

Dude, this is a bit random, if you have an unrelated problem it's much better to start a new thread where we can help you.

No.

I think you'd have gained the same swapping the dirty paper element for a clean standard item. Please bear in mind that on a turbodiesel you have to add fuel to make more power, not air because the amount of air is fixed by the ECU using the boost control solenoid in conjunction with the MAP sensor. Induction kits are for petrol engines.

Not even, an hour would be plenty.

It's not the gear oil, it's the linkage, adjust and reset the linkage to take account of cable stretch and wear, lubricate everything plastic with silicon and everything metal with spray grease while you're at it.

If your car is over ten years old then simply replace all the standard shocks with new ones, yours will be tired and that makes for a poor ride.

It is 36mm but needs to have a thin wall, doesn't have to be deep either.