travs

That's an incredible difference in power and torque on the old remap. Remind us all not to go for....who did that old remap? Glad you got it sorted. Sounds classy in the clip too. Enjoy!

Not sure what those software versions are. Have you looked on mib-helper to check they are correct? Where are you located in the world?

I think this is the right place; On the rear camera view, when you start to get close to objects, you get a plan of the car slides on the left with the colour-changing bar indicators around. It’s sometimes transparent which is fine as I can still see through it. But it mostly appears with an opaque black background and as the screen doesn’t shift to accommodate it, it covers up the rear left corner of the car. Is there any way to turn this off? Or keep the transparent version consistent?

Well if doing two versions works, then that might be the key to it. Either way, good stuff.

0w-30 is the spec for 504/507 which is in mine (the 280) but to add confusion the standard used to refer to 5w-30 and was lowered. The oil will still lubricate and transfer heat; but I’d drain and replace with all of one type to be on the safe side.

There is v332 out @Maty - I've got it here which is the version running on my car.

Found this absolute nugget of data by accident: 2026 SDSs for lots of suppliers For anyone not familiar, Section 3 has the key active (aka dangerous) ingredients, Section 9 has the properties such as pH, look, scent, boiling point etc

Cheers for that @UndertheRadar - good to have it sorted. I guess thinking back to old carb with choke days, it’s running too lean when cold as it thinks the engine is hotter than it is…?

Cheers for these and the hospitality @Tankdave - yes will see how it goes in the winter. I do find I can’t tell if the car behind is an unmarked copper but I’ll just get used to that. For the heat and light benefits for the kids it’ll be worth it. Boot mat going to be tested tomorrow as the Mrs does a tip run…

There’ll likely be people who offer multiple providers. See if you can find a RacingLine ECU tune and TVS TCU tune?

Thanks for the pointers @leolito - tbh I'm not sure I'll ever need to take out the screen except to clean the inside of the rear window on occasion. Mine smoked at the rear so making sure minimal heat effect from there with the kids in the car would be very useful!

My guess is that the more generic TCU tunes alter the shift points and increase the clutch pressure to cope with increased torque. TVS look like they go into more depth with it all. Any named brands will be generic ECU flash maps. How good they are depends on the experience of the coder (Racingline OEM+ used to be Shark Performance which had a very good reputation and has the main guy still there) and also how close to their generic tuning the engine is. As said, nothing beats a custom tune, but the pitfalls of it are: Probably more expensive as time taken to do it and tweak it Any time you change parts, the tune is compromised because it was setup for the existing setup. Having said that, only as compromised as a flash tune but then you might as well just get it flashed and be done with it. I think I'd only ever get a custom tune when I know I'm not going to do anything else to the engine.

Lucky you know someone with the cable already...

EA888.4 280 here. I went Racingline for TCU as I bought it along with Stage 1 ECU and I bought the dongle (PDM, not PCM) to self-remap which means as I progress with the tuning the additional maps are free. However, the TCU remap does involve a bit of mucking around as the shift points are right at inconvenient points for town driving and there aren't a bunch of features that TVS seem to include. If I was to do it all again, I'd go for TVS TCU Stage 2+. I haven't found anyone have a rubbish experience with their product although they were awful at getting back to me when I enquired direct - possibly some of that a language barrier. Best to just find a decent place that is a TVS dealer in Warsaw and let them do it all. TVS do an ECU so you could get a combo but I don't know how good that is.

Well as much as I love my car for me, its also a family car and a bit of a loadlugger on occasion (so the boot mat would be useful) and the rear screen will be good to make sure the kids are comfortable too. Should be good depending on the traffic on Sunday!

Hey @Tankdave I’ll take them. Am heading to Liverpool from SW London over the weekend so will detour to you on the way home and collect if that works?

Just a note - there are different sizes of ball seat. 13mm and 14mm. The standard is 13mm so switching away from VAG you’ve got to be aware of ball seat not being a definitive term in itself.

You're not that far from AwesomeGTI - probably a little more margin in the price but they know their stuff.

@Jameshazza this. Look for a decent reputation independent in your area. You’ll save on labour costs and decent Indy’s will do a better job than dealers on occasion when the technical manual doesn’t allow for everything (classic example is haldex service where dealers change the oil but don’t clean the gunked-up gauze on the haldex pump).

They do look utterly lovely. But looking at the first pic, and the profile of the wheels to tyres, my Mrs would utterly ruin those rims in a New York minute.

Might not need it? Can you go straight to 308?

Yep. Passenger side in front of the front wheel arch.

@Cairus I love it mate - the enthusiasm, dedication and attention to detail is fantastic. The exterior work is subtle which I like too. On a side note, sorry that you have an incurable condition, and while it’s always good to have your distractions (us blokes tend to prefer that), family time is unparalleled. Your daughter’s smile is magic - make it happen whenever you can buddy.

Bar-Tek seems to be a decent (if generic) source of info from a Google search. States: "Injection: Direct injection; in later Gen.3 versions in certain markets, partly combined with intake manifold injection". However, further asking Google "when did the Gen3 receive dual injection" throws up 2013 so it looks like the Superb 280's always had it; and engine code CJXA (what you're looking at) is confirmed as Dual too. Interesting side note I always thought that later DNUA engine (272bhp version with GPF) was Gen3b but it isn't. Must have just had GPF added and updated software to manage it. There doesn't seem to have been a high power version of the 3b.

Are you any more specific? They basically came in a low power 220bhp FWD and high power 280bhp version AWD. The high power has had 3 different engines, the original 280 Gen3 engine without GPF, the 272 Gen3 engine with GPF, the 280 Gen4 engine with GPF. I don’t know about the FWD engine but guessing the mirror as the architecture is based around the same block. The Gen3 versions (probably what you’re looking at) had 6-speed DSGs, the DQ250, but they changed the DQ381 7speed later on; better gear ratios but a bit flakier. Then there’s hatchback or estate. Never ready anything on here about cam chain tensioners so fairly certain they’re not something to look out for. Preventive maintenance is the name of the game. The 6speed gearbox was required by Skoda for service every 40k; they changed that to 80k for the 7speed. No sense and any 7speed owner on here with fully functioning faculties has agreed they’d prefer to stick to the 40k. If AWD then the Haldex is paramount too. It needs to have oil change and the gauze inside cleaned. Should be every 2 years although it may have been 3 earlier on. Rear pads tend to wear first, as they’re used for the radar cruise control. Brake discs on the 280/272 are 340mm vented front and 310mm vented rear. All other models have 312mm vented front and 300mm solid rear.