travs

And..of course what happened to the Remus? Maybe it can be sold to tombee if not already.

Click on the profile and you can see the last visited time; 1st August 2025. May have moved on sadly

That is all well and good for getting rid of the smell but if the drainage is partially blocked then 1. The smell will return and 2. It might be the cause of the smell and condensation. Is it worth trying to locate the path yourself or take to a specialist?

What about drainage for air-con condensation? Can there be some water trapped which is causing an occasional fogging and also the smell as it stagnates?

Ha. Classic

Had heard the same about Tesco Momentum v Shell. Car is mapped for 99. Like Num, will head to Tesco if possible, or Esso or Shell.

I used Millers when I had my old Fabia Mk1 ASZ engine (1.9pd). I wasn’t overly convinced except when I ran out and after it had washed through the tank and started to empty, it became really troublesome when cold starting. Would stall if I didn’t keep the revs away from idle for the first few minutes. I did it deliberately again after a few months and was definitely repeated. But I don’t really understand why it’s needed and I don’t think it’s the solution to something; I think it’s compensation.

Agree. Nothing wrong with putting some spec up in case someone is interested. Alternatively putting it in the For Sale forum doesn’t mean you have to commit to any timescales etc. You can easily explain the situation etc. Congrats on the new role

Damn. I changed to RacingLine ones but I don’t know of any proof that they provide any better, just newer so a stronger spark. I didn’t know OE would be a problem though. How many miles has the car done? Rubber breakdown from lots of heat cycles?

Cheers @OccyVRS @fa-callum would be good to look at Gen6 (part number starting 5wa rather than 0CQ). I’d bought a Road Rage Performance setup but it didn’t work and the guy on the phone could see when I was connected that I wouldn’t talk to the 5wa controller. No-one else seems to address it and VdVeer engineering is the only other internet search return I get that addresses it as a product development but last time I enquired they haven’t developed it yet.

Supersprint definitely has a fair bit of margin in it for sure. You can get tailpipes with an angle on the inlet - scroll through the billion on Aliexpress and you’ll definitely see what I mean.

I think the ID is c.63mm. If it’s a little larger then it can be clamped and squeezed. Having a look under the car, this style of entry and tailpipe entry design looks correct; I just don’t think I ever found the diagonal square cut with that entry. Also I’d need to cut the welds on the existing tailpipe to get them on. I think yours may be naked tailpipes and tailpipe trim clipped to the rear bumper right?

Either way, if you’re experiencing different behaviours, something doesn’t sound right.

I don’t think a touch-up paint pen is particularly expensive. Chances are if you go cheap you get cheap though. Going to be something like Dr Colorchip is my guess. If you haven’t done it before you want to make sure it’s absolutely clean so use a panel wipe (Garage Therapy Zero is very decen) to get rid of any contaminants and oils. Use a toothpick, thin layers, adequate time to dry between.

Some places do loan wheels I think. Spacers are fine tbh. There’s a fair amount of concern about the load on the bearings but a small amount won’t be an issue. I use 11mm spacers on mine to push them out a little same as JRRS did. Forge Spacers which come with longer bolts (and I bought longer locking wheel bolts too). The stance is definitely better. Looks less like a fat guy with tiny feet from the rear.

I think PCV always look a crappy off-white/yellow colour. I thought you’d have issues with idling with a dodgy PCV - like a hunting idle. I don’t think it would cause additional vibration felt at low/idle revs.

Plenty of people have changed. Depends what you want/need from your wheels. I picked up some pre-loved OE wheels (Vegas as per the sportplus model) as they had winter tyres on. I’m just about to swap back in a couple of weeks. I’d normally go back to the original Trinity wheels but I’ve bought some replacement wheels and they’ll go on instead so the Trinity’s are up for sale now I’ve gotten round to cleaning them properly. I have 12mm spacers (which push the wheel out rather than tucking it back in - you can’t do that with spacers) but the new ones have a lower negative offset (the ET number) by pretty much the same so they will sit about the same but without needing the spacers. When it comes to fitment, you also want to consider Centre Bore which is the big hole in the middle. Ours are 57.1mm diameter. Aftermarket wheels can have larger centre bores and be supplied with spigot rings which sit on the hub and make up the difference between hub lip diameter and centre bore. So the question is, what are you looking for from a replacement wheel? Just a bit bored with the current setup?

Rears:

For sale are 4 x Trinity Anthracite from my Superb. Specs as follows: Wheel size: 19" x 8" PCD: 5 x 112mm CB: 57.1mm Offset: ET44mm Made by Ronal Tyres: 245/40/19 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asy5. Fronts have 4mm. Rears have 6mm. Datestamps are late 2022. All have been kissed by the kerbs fairly successfully. None have been refurbed already. No real white-worm aside from a little around the battlescars. Selling for £240. Delivery/collection logistics can be discussed depending on locations. I'm SW London/Surrey. Photos - Fronts:

I don’t mind it but you can tell it’s there. They have 4 variants of firmness: Red - softest, standard upgrade for diesels Yellow - standard upgrade for petrols Purple - fast road/track Black - track/race. You could try the softest one (red for diesels) depending on what you had previously…but tbh I don’t think you want that, I think you’ll prefer the original setup but just working properly.

Def feeling like mounts if the engine performs as expected. I think there is a large one on the UK driver’s side and then the dogbone underneath into the rear of the subframe. Be aware…when you look at dogbone mounts, most will suggest you have one of two types. I found out the hard way, the DNFE engine doesn’t have either. There is a third design which you have to be aware of. I did a thread in this section called Dogbone I think which has pictures and explanations in case you’re interested.

I know you weren’t being blasé about it - was just keeping it on the radar just in case. There’s also a complete back and forth about whether stuff like this will or won’t leave an imprint on logs; I’m of the opinion it’s all in the manufacturer’s hand and they’ll find something if they look hard enough. They’ll always have in mind that agreeing to something causes a precedent too I guess.

Just be aware on that…I was mucking about with VCDS long coding and changed the steering wheel version without realising what impact it would have. Everything worked the same except the heated steering wheel button. Mentioned it to the dealer as it was within warranty period. They tried everything, reset, updating. Eventually they managed to get a new steering wheel under warranty which hadn’t worked…but they asked if I’d done anything to the car; noting that if they can’t work it out they’ll have to send it to Skoda HQ who may ask for data logs. And if anything comes up to show it’s not absolutely virgin as it left the factory, they’d reject the claim including the £600+VAT steering wheel and the mechanics time that had been booked. Decided to cut my losses and live with no heated steering wheel until about 6 months later when I decided to poke around on VCDS again and realised what I’d done. Roll the dice with HQ and the risk is the warranty claim is rejected. If any investigative work has already been done by that point you’re on the hook for it. But your software will have OBD11 written all over it.

I had a Fiesta Mk3 which, after randomly spinning a 180 on a dual carriageway sliproad in dry conditions at no excessive speed I realised that I could change lanes with the throttle. Accelerate and the car would drift right, take my foot off the throttle a little and the car would drift left. Ended up being a diff bush in a lower arm. Can’t remember whether it was the middle bush or the rear one. Would have remembered if it was bottom ball joint so it wasn’t that one. Might be with a look jacking that front nearside up and seeing if there is excessive movement. More wear on the outside seems to suggests positive camber.

The cold temperature could definitely affect the issue if it is down to an engine mount as the rubber may be slightly stiffer and transfer more NVH (Noise, Vibration Harshness). I'd still look at the dogbone mount (which is the engine mount at the bottom of the engine into the subframe). I added a dogbone insert (Powerflex) which stiffens the connection between the dogbone and subframe. It's not really noticeable when driving (although I don't think I have the revs low in a high gear like that) but most noticeable when the revs something like: Reversing on idle power slightly uphill (for example onto the drive), so when the car is in gear, and the engine is labouring a little. Perhaps try reversing slightly uphill and if you notice it then?