travs

Just for awareness - I recently took the DS2500 pads off the rear (kept the fronts) and went back to standard pads. They developed a squeal after a couple of thousand miles and the only way I could reduce it (but never got rid completely) was to do a few heavy stops and get the heat into them. After some normal (ie gentle) braking the noise would start to escalate again. Have since read that on the 280s the rear brakes are quite big in comparison to the fronts and tougher pads aren’t really needed unless you’re going to work the brakes. Hopefully you won’t have the same experience but if you do, that’ll be why.

There may well be .5 models. It’s rare that all pre-facelift parts were all used up when the last pre-facelift rolled off the production line. Have been told there are some early 8Y S3s (should have the Gen4 engine) with the Gen3 engine. Scandalous. And I had an Audi S4 99.5 (mid-facelift - still had a manual clock in the dash).

But in reality they’re off the radar - it’s not a criticism, just the reality. And I expect most owners appreciate Skoda is still not a flashy brand; even the vRS with its respectable image is still “in its place” below S, R and Cupra (although the god-awful Cupra logo makes it a close run thing).

…and faster than an Octavia vRS 🤭

Its something to do with losing the FEC (Feature Enables Codes) aka SWaP (Software as a product) when you move from very old version like v0156 - I think they get deleted as part of the update but I don't know why. By the time you get to around v270 onwards you don't need to worry about it as the codes seem to remain. v270 itself is junk. I also don't know where you find them or how you update them as they've never been an issue for me. But search for FEC codes and you will get plenty of data. As I've mentioned before, you NEED v308 as a stepping stone from older versions to newer but you can go traight from there to the newest (as far as I know is still 332). I don't know which stepping stones may also exist from previous. Mine was v270 when I first bought the car. The local dealer updated to v306 when it was in for a service and then I've researched and updated since then, hence not knowing much about the earlier processes.

Not as far as I've seen and not for me. There's so little knowledge about them that the chances of it being nicked because its a 280 is low because: there are so many other models with the same engine that have a more desirable badge joe public doesn't even realise the 280 exists as a model which "has the Golf R engine in" the only obvious external identifiers (aside from the badges) are brake size and real exhausts. both pretty niche. Other one I can think of are the DSG oil cooler and for that you have to notice the front nearside portion of the lower grill is open and notice the cooler behind there. Even more niche. In other words, the value you place on it is entirely your own. I've de-badged mine so unless someone observes cars other than reading badges, it might as well be a 1.4. I'm not going as far as putting a TDi badge on though.

To Correct: First 280: 280bhp CJXA EA888.3 non-GPF pre-facelift Second 280: 272bhp DNUA EA888.3 GPF pre-facelift Third 280: 280bhp DNFE EA888.4 GPF facelift. The first and second is literally the addition of GPF. No structural changes, change in ECU/map etc. The 3rd was a whole different engine. Short block probs very similar, but ancillaries, turbo, as well. Biggest thing I've noticed is where the diverter valve feeds in to the inlet pipe from the airbox on the Gen4, but didn't look into what happens on the Gen3. There's no spur on the pipe from the airbox though...found that the hard way when buying a second-hand part...

By the way, any deposit should be entirely refundable in principle. They may say that there is an admin/cancellation charge but that should be minimal. Any potential risk to a deposit is being used as a leverage tactic to get the sale. Doesn't mean the car's a dog, but it does mean the sales guy is BSing; meaning he's either motivated to sell (meet targets) and/or a bell-cheese. So if you're 50:50 on the car but the paid deposit is pushing you either way then factor it out. They return it or you sart getting direct regarding consumer rights.

Hey - not as far as I know. I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re focussing on a new version for the next gen and not putting so much in anything more. I don’t go looking for it though

That quote comes to 866.02. With VAT that’s 1,039.22. Where’s the additional 250 coming from?

Map updates don’t need to be “started”; you just plug in the usb stick and it starts automatically. It also doesn’t need to be done in one process as the system sets lots of restart points as it’s done while driving and switching off. So if you were doing just map updates, it shouldn’t matter that the dash switched off. It would just restart when back on again. It does sound like the firmware is corrupted in some way though. Do you have enough time to hold down “Menu” button to get it into engineering mode?

Does it come back after you clear it?

Solution Finish for the wiper cap. Probs the best “back to black” type product

Yeah you’ve got DNFE engine like mine. THE best as it shares all the same hardware with the everything VW R/S3 so remaps are very beneficial.

I don’t think so but it would be understandable for any engine to use a tad.

Yours is pre-GPF right? Might be a different requirement. Or it just covers the 5w30 requirement etc

This is my engine bay - this is the gen4 engine so with a GPF.

Can of worms. So they tend to refer to VW 504 (which is paired with 507 as the diesel equivalent). It’s 5w30 Longlife but it wasn’t always. Google AI mentions low SAPS formula protecting emissions for the benefit of GPFs/DPFs so it may have been that since DNUA engine codes (EA888 Gen 3 with the GPF) onwards. Fairly sure if you search you can find people quoting VW504 as previously having at least a different viscosity. Either that or early (ie pre-GPF) 280s had a different oil requirement.

You’ve checked for updates? Can you check on the Ross-tech website and things like that?

Sounds like a decent roadtrip. Sorry for losing your wife. Hope you got the photo you were after 👍🏼

I had a B5 Audi S4 2.7 bi-turbo with KKK K03 turbos and the weaknesses were two-fold: Split in the various post-turbo rubber hoses which caused pressure drops and overspooling and, Running the turbo hot and then turning off meant oil would sit in the veins and cook, leaving a film of oil on the inside…this would then restrict the oil veins and cause oil starvation issues. Oil starvation would lead to bearings running dry and overheating. On that basis, if the turbo is starting to get hot and loud it may be something to do with oil starvation and the bearings, which would then cause play in the shaft. But this is all speculation. Best get it checked. Or, you know, Garrett Powermax 1… And yes the car is gorgeous.

As in, that wasn't a genuine number? or it will only call certain ones? otherwise, you might as well edit it for a favourite and have a car-based speed-dial button!

Should be just 308-332. Def skip 324, and I don't think you need 330, just that most the guys on here that updated to 332 were on 330. So definitely save yourself a bunch of money

I've just replaced my rear pads with those Brembo prime; seem smooth so far and no squealing from under-used DS2500 (although there wasn't much evidence of copperslip tbh so made up for that).

Good to know. I had an engine light the day before the first MOT. Car was fine but it turned out to be a throttle actuator needing resetting so good to know it could be something a little more permanent.