travs

@commievid how's the alu subframe? Its starting to fall on my radar so want to get some proper feedback.

You need 308, not 306. 308 supports almost all previous versions as you can see here Pretty sure you can get it from mibsolution as well but if not I have a mega link with a version here. once you go to 308 you can springboard straight o v332 which is the latest version widely available. We're on the cusp of v334 coming out but that hasn't been uploaded anywhere I can see

There is. What version do you have at the moment? Go to Menu, Settings, then System then scroll to the bottom for Software Version or something like that. And do you have twisty knobs (Amundsen) or just touch screen buttons (Columbus)?

Its definitely a looker and a great bit of kit @Roscio Agree the rear brakes will just need a bit of a clean up. I had originally put DS2500 pads on my front and rear but because I didn't drive it hard all the time, the rears started to squeak after a few months. Ended up having to back to standard pads. I've since read opinions that the rear brakes are oversized for the standard front size and so the rears don't end up working hard in the standard brake-balance setup). Whoever picks up the car will definitely have plenty of fun!

I definitely type stuff filling in blanks in my head; then go back and re-read it and wonder how on earth I’ve let that go out the door.

Sorry @UndertheRadar didn’t mean to exclude you from that question! Cheers for confirming. Think I need to review your project thread! Cheers @MarioVrs Eibach is a def! Alu subframes all round…?

Lovely. I had Superpro front droplinks on order but researching the length reduction on lowering meant they were still too long. Got the longer of the two RacingLine offerings as could adjust when on the ground. The TT arms have a solid rear bush - just standard front one though. Question @MarioVrs H&R says ARB bushes go in dry - did you go along with that?

Best of luck with it!

KYB KSC4260 and KSC4261 fitted. Need to get setup but they were a decent fit. Having done some research as they are the same spec as JRRS' Delphi suggestion, they are for Audi TT Mk3 (FV3/FVP). So you lose 6mm of track each side rather than 14mm with the Golf parts. The seems to equate to a little under 0.5 degree positive camber according to Google. While Google/Gemini is telling me this using pretty catastrophic language, I can still physically see negative camber on both fronts. I'll keep this and tyre-wear under observation though and see what the 4wa results come up with. Ironically, Gemini also suggests the Delphi ones that JRRS referred to, saying that, because they are for the Passat B8, they are wider as meant for the larger MQB-B platform cars. However, when I search for them specifically, they are suggested as a part for...the Audi TT Mk3. And no-one gives the bush centre-line to bush centre-line width measurement to confirm whether they're better or worse (even Delphi website). And if I search by model for Passat B8 (even the 280 equivalent Saloon AWD) you just get the black steel ones back at square one. And if I challenge Gemini, it admits that both parts are for the Audi TT Mk3 and that there is confusion sourcing this thread as a reference lol. For now, the TT Mk3 ones are on, feel pretty solid and just waiting for the final work to be done to get the ARB on and the alignment done. @MarioVrs how does yours feel now?

That depends how you do it… Check YouTube for methods to safely unclipping and reconnecting. Alternatively - as it’s an electrical gremlin…when was your battery last changed?

All good. You can have B8 but then DCC slider mod isn’t applicable.

Alasdair has a point - could also be the play in the driveshaft as you accelerate and engine-brake.

If B8 is being suggested there is no DCC option (Bilstein Damptronic) for Skoda Superb.

Not normal (and let’s face it, it’s a change that you’ve flagged so you’re on the right track). My money’s on a lower arm bush split meaning as the weight moves forward under slowing down (you mention lifting off but not about braking…?) and then moving back under acceleration there is plenty around the bushes that can move enough to have metal strike metal. Best bet is to get it to somewhere to get it up on a ramp and have a good look and wiggle around.

No you need longer bolts. The bolts contact the wheel and hub - standard thread length is 27mm. If you add a spacer between, that’s simply sandwiched between the wheel and hub, held in place by the same bolts. Because 5mm of thread is now taken up sitting in the spacer, you lose that contact length with the hub; so in order to ensure the wheels are secured to the hub with the same number of threads, you need to add at least 5mm of bolt thread length. Hence, changing from 27mm to at least 38mm. Fortunately AwesomeGTI source them and supply with the spacer (as per the pic); 20 of them (5 bolts x 4 wheels). I then bought a set of locking wheel nuts and replaced one of each of the nuts with a locking wheel bolt.

No worries; I also bought McGard 28025SUB which are 41mm long locking wheel bolts that fit. Standard length is 27mm so these are more like 14mm long rather than 11mm but I tentatively tried them as suggested and there was no fouling behind the hub. I would still just test each wheel (spin slowly when still jacked up) just in case (my experience at the mo is that nothing goes to plan)

I did before lowering etc. Forge 11mm front and rear with longer bolts in one set. Standard wheels and suspension at the time of those photos.

Update on this. Rear donk solved. Bottom droplink bolt on the passenger side wasn't tight (the one bottom right of the 2nd pic). Jacked up the hub so all under load and torqued it up properly. Checked the other side which was ok. As I jacked the hub up and compressed the spring, there was the donk sound but I tried it a couple of times and couldn't see what was moving to make the sound. Did the same after the work was done and silent. Test drive was silent too. Spring looked fine sat in the cup and looked fine under compression so not sure what was up. One thing sorted. Work booked for end of next week - helicoil my dogbone mess, front arb switched to H&R, front topmounts, check the wheel speed sensors then 4wa and hopefully that's it...

Is it me or does that passenger side spring look wonky…?

Took some pics under the car to look at the rear springs/arb/droplinks: Driver’s side (no donk sound) Passenger side (donk sound occasionally):

I thought I had H but in an 03/2021-registered car. From Gemini: In the Volkswagen Auto Group (VAG) part numbering ecosystem, the single- or double-letter suffixes at the end of a part number indicate hardware revisions, production year updates, or software advancements. [1] For the 3V0035816 MIB3 navigation head unit, the most common suffix variations found across Skoda models include: Common Suffix Variations No Suffix (3V0035816): The base or initial release variant of the MIB3 High/Columbus system, typically found on early facelift models around late 2019 to mid-2020. [1, 2] Suffix A & B (3V0035816A / 3V0035816B): Early revision updates introduced during the 2020–2021 production cycle. [1, 2] Suffix D (3V0035816D): A highly common revision introduced around late 2021. It is frequently seen as a factory standard in the 2021–2022 Skoda Kodiaq and Superb. [1, 2] Suffix E & H (3V0035816E / 3V0035816H): Mid-generation hardware updates that include factory fixes for early MIB3 software stability issues. [1] Suffix K (3V0035816K): A later generation variant (often 2022–2023+ models) heavily used across the compact line, including the Skoda Kamiq, Scala, and Octavia IV. [1] Suffix N (3V0035816N): A later revision version variant, sometimes associated with specific component manufacturers (like Joynext instead of Preh/Harman). [1] What do these differences mean for you? Component Protection: No matter which suffix variation you find, VAG units feature Component Protection. If you swap one into your car, it will remain locked (no sound or disabled menus) until it is programmed and unlocked via official Skoda ODIS software linked to the factory server. [1] Backward Compatibility: Generally, a unit with a newer suffix (e.g., changing from a base unit to a D or K variant) can replace an older unit, provided it is coded properly to match your vehicle's specific layout (such as screen size or sound amplifier type). [1, 2] Hope that helps. Cairus knows what he's talking about though!

On my track record, that's good to know!

I hear that; last weekend - wrong LCAs, last minute realisation that Superpro front droplinks were still too long for lowered suspension so had to get new ones. 3 hours on one rear droplink because it just would not fit in the lower arm - had to jack up the other side to bring the tip of the arb into position, fit the end in the arb and persuade the base into the lower arm. Car fought me and @OccyVRS on everything and the final straw was me not getting the front pendulum bolt lined up in the DSG casing and butchering the thread. That now needs to be helicoiled 🤦🏻‍♂️ May also be that I’ve been too ham-fisted and either damaged a wheel speed sensor (or hopefully just dislodged a plug) which is causing some of the Christmas tree effect currently on the dashboard. Appreciate it’s not a competition, just securing my position on the bandwagon.

I think @MarioVrs has an issue with the fact that the wrong parts have been delivered and now questioning that. The thing I find is that they give you every part under the sun - even when you've selected a vehicle and that should filter out what you want: my example was the Superb 280 is 340mm front discs and 310mm rears. All other Superbs (4x4 and FWD) are 312mm front and 300mm rear. Despite the autodoc website knowing I have my car selected, they would list all of the size options. Fine if you know what to look for, but for a layman who wants to buy rear discs and doesn't spot the difference then that's where the issues arise. That isn't necessarily an Autodoc thing solely - all sellers seem to not be able to differentiate between the 3 different versions of the EA888 engine in the 280 from pre to post FL. But I think this thread is that Autodoc's customer service and ease of return more than offsets any saving over popping down to the local GSF etc.

Cheers buddy - will update when I find out more.