travs

Yeah Peter Schmeichel and his son would hardly fit at all.

Potential to do list: Alu subframe and LCAs Uprated 380mm front brakes and 4pots Either Stage 2 - likely Trackslag downpipe with 200cell cat and additional silencer in pace of GPF. Or This APR Stage 3 standard GPF option Would love to see if Raclingline do an alternative to this but can't see anything yet.

Yep complete sense. Plug-in boxes can only tweak so much whereas a more comprehensive setup makes everything work together better I think and much more driveable makes for a much better experience and less strain on ancillary parts. Mine is Gen4, of which the major difference is bigger turbo. On an unproven 430bhp at present on Stage 1+ but it was impressive how effective the uprated IC and pipework was (WT IC and their pipes/hoses from turbo-to-IC-to-throttle body) - despite a smaller pub-stat gain, it was much more noticeable throughout the driveability of the car. My dilemma with GPF - replace with a fast-cell downpipe and GPF removal (and hope Mr MOT man doesn't spot) or APR have come up with a Stage 3 which keeps standard downpipe. Emissions/legality stays in check for certain states in USA and UK obvs. Also keeps sound to standard which is fine with the family car for now. It wont realise the full potential of the setup given the standard downpipe but the guys at the Phirm mooted it as an option too.

Very strong torque figure. Is that a pre-GPF?

Its not to turn you off being an enthusisiast - just that you'll have limited bang for buck so might as well go for something more responsive to tuning anyway.

Fairly sure it is a straight swap - but if its twisted slightly, what's the effect, just mounting points slightly out of place? Or does it affect steering geometry/tracking? Someone else on here fitted alu LCAs and thought they were better for some reason...but it might depend on what vehicle it came from. I think his were from Audi TTS but there might be tolerance differences with Golf 7 R, 8P S3 etc. etc. Here it is - Lower Control Arms

Lovely job. Open window, foot down at lower revs is when I really noticed the engine sucking on the air. As the revs rise you lose most of the sound I feel. But I'm fine with that. Subtle rules over everything. 2 things - keep an eye on the coolant hose at the engine block end for weeping. Mine did and a mech noticed it and tightened it. Also, keep an eye on whether the bottom corner of the engine cover rubs on the hose. it might not given yours is a Gen3 and mine is Gen4 but just to put it on the radar.

Nice - alu subframe and lower control arms are on my distant radar. Is there a risk that its crash damaged and not straight/true?

Just as a classic gremlin check - how’s the battery?

Definitely VCDS but also OBD11 and I think I’ve read Carista too. The big pity about the Monroe seems to be build quality. I had a front start to leak at about 28k miles/4 years.

The Monroe one? Autodoc seems to have it down as the correct part. Pretty sure no coding is needed through VCDS. Only thing that will be needed is calibration. Get the car up in the air, let the wheels hang free (and suggest keeping the wheels on to make sure the shock absorber is extended and then run the calibration process so the controller understands the extremity of shock absorber travel.

Shame it’s being swapped out. The DNFE engine is amazing as it is and brilliant for breathing on. What’s the replacement Dave? Are the wheels being sold too?

Looks good @Binx1310 - the only downside of mine is blacking out just would look too much for me and needs something to accent. I was wondering about a brushed-aluminium colour but I'd have to see in time.

Superb. End of.

I've had my eye on the Racingline version (obvs) - all for preventive measures. Look neat and tidy. Is it fiddly? Do you end up losing much coolant?

Interesting - so changing the physical part changes the long-coding and you had to make sure it was the same as what it had been?

It clicks once when the weight shifts forward? Or clicks in time with the rotation of the wheel? Sounds like the brakes have been ruled out.

Agree with NTA and Evolution on this. If you just want more performance from the car, its not really going to happen with some magic remap. Directly, any more performance-based mapping will need to take advantage of increased air flow (induction kit), cooler charge (intercooler) and potentially exhaust to assist with increased exhaust gas flow capacity. But before all that the responsible thing to do is make sure the car is looked after well - changing the oil and service items more often; and servicing gearbox/diffs more often than advised etc.

That reads as though you've introduced variables which is causing confusion. Press - no. Hold - yes. Irrespective of where you stand.

I’ve got one too but never found it that useful as the wheel still moves around a bit so found it fiddly. But @Warrior193 mentioned two…that sounds like the panacea

Yessir. Sit on floor with wheel in front, put it on the hub and hold it there while you line it up with the holes, couple of bolts in and game over.

Yep - called a stud and nut kit. Plenty of tuners sell them as most people that are serious about tracking their car will switch to that.

My variation is to sit on the floor with feet on the tyre wall at 3 and 9 holding it on the hub; bolts handtight with the Little (4"?) extension bar I have, then tweak with bar then torque when car's back on the floor.

DTUA engine code by the looks of it. Darkside Developments seem not to be phased. They’re one of the better reputation diesel tuners so give them a shout.

If it’s not on Kopacek (I believe they get a local dealer to paint emblem backgrounds in body colour paint) then chances are you’d need to take to a Bodyshop and get them to paint the strips themselves.