travs

To Correct: First 280: 280bhp CJXA EA888.3 non-GPF pre-facelift Second 280: 272bhp DNUA EA888.3 GPF pre-facelift Third 280: 280bhp DNFE EA888.4 GPF facelift. The first and second is literally the addition of GPF. No structural changes, change in ECU/map etc. The 3rd was a whole different engine. Short block probs very similar, but ancillaries, turbo, as well. Biggest thing I've noticed is where the diverter valve feeds in to the inlet pipe from the airbox on the Gen4, but didn't look into what happens on the Gen3. There's no spur on the pipe from the airbox though...found that the hard way when buying a second-hand part...

By the way, any deposit should be entirely refundable in principle. They may say that there is an admin/cancellation charge but that should be minimal. Any potential risk to a deposit is being used as a leverage tactic to get the sale. Doesn't mean the car's a dog, but it does mean the sales guy is BSing; meaning he's either motivated to sell (meet targets) and/or a bell-cheese. So if you're 50:50 on the car but the paid deposit is pushing you either way then factor it out. They return it or you sart getting direct regarding consumer rights.

Hey - not as far as I know. I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re focussing on a new version for the next gen and not putting so much in anything more. I don’t go looking for it though

That quote comes to 866.02. With VAT that’s 1,039.22. Where’s the additional 250 coming from?

Map updates don’t need to be “started”; you just plug in the usb stick and it starts automatically. It also doesn’t need to be done in one process as the system sets lots of restart points as it’s done while driving and switching off. So if you were doing just map updates, it shouldn’t matter that the dash switched off. It would just restart when back on again. It does sound like the firmware is corrupted in some way though. Do you have enough time to hold down “Menu” button to get it into engineering mode?

Does it come back after you clear it?

Solution Finish for the wiper cap. Probs the best “back to black” type product

Yeah you’ve got DNFE engine like mine. THE best as it shares all the same hardware with the everything VW R/S3 so remaps are very beneficial.

I don’t think so but it would be understandable for any engine to use a tad.

Yours is pre-GPF right? Might be a different requirement. Or it just covers the 5w30 requirement etc

This is my engine bay - this is the gen4 engine so with a GPF.

Can of worms. So they tend to refer to VW 504 (which is paired with 507 as the diesel equivalent). It’s 5w30 Longlife but it wasn’t always. Google AI mentions low SAPS formula protecting emissions for the benefit of GPFs/DPFs so it may have been that since DNUA engine codes (EA888 Gen 3 with the GPF) onwards. Fairly sure if you search you can find people quoting VW504 as previously having at least a different viscosity. Either that or early (ie pre-GPF) 280s had a different oil requirement.

You’ve checked for updates? Can you check on the Ross-tech website and things like that?

Sounds like a decent roadtrip. Sorry for losing your wife. Hope you got the photo you were after 👍🏼

I had a B5 Audi S4 2.7 bi-turbo with KKK K03 turbos and the weaknesses were two-fold: Split in the various post-turbo rubber hoses which caused pressure drops and overspooling and, Running the turbo hot and then turning off meant oil would sit in the veins and cook, leaving a film of oil on the inside…this would then restrict the oil veins and cause oil starvation issues. Oil starvation would lead to bearings running dry and overheating. On that basis, if the turbo is starting to get hot and loud it may be something to do with oil starvation and the bearings, which would then cause play in the shaft. But this is all speculation. Best get it checked. Or, you know, Garrett Powermax 1… And yes the car is gorgeous.

As in, that wasn't a genuine number? or it will only call certain ones? otherwise, you might as well edit it for a favourite and have a car-based speed-dial button!

Should be just 308-332. Def skip 324, and I don't think you need 330, just that most the guys on here that updated to 332 were on 330. So definitely save yourself a bunch of money

I've just replaced my rear pads with those Brembo prime; seem smooth so far and no squealing from under-used DS2500 (although there wasn't much evidence of copperslip tbh so made up for that).

Good to know. I had an engine light the day before the first MOT. Car was fine but it turned out to be a throttle actuator needing resetting so good to know it could be something a little more permanent.

Interior cleanin product from a decent detailing product company - Carpro, Garage Therapy, Gyeon, Bilt Hamber. Even Autoglym interior cleaner is decent. Nice clean microfibre cloth, gentle agitation letting the product do the work.

Don't think reverse camera was an option. I have sunroof, (just sunroof, not pano being a hatchback) rear wiper (no cost on hatchback, probs standard on estate), hidden tow bar, extra connected USB under armrest, probably paint (black magic pearl), can't think of anything else...Oh the rear seatback drop pulls in the boot were an option too but I don't have them.

I'm presuming a fault code scan has been run but if not, then changing ECU is criminal without it.

Either way I think its a respray job because the panel probably needs re-prepping. Also, get it clearcoated too; none of this all-in-one single stage paint business. As for paint code, I think traditionally there was a sticker in the boot wheel well that had the paint code but mine doesn't have it so I think they stopped, or got sloppy. Business Grey is a well known Skoda SUperb colour though. A quick Google gives me LF7M or F7M which agrees with Sweperb.

If replacing as standard it shouldn't be too criminal costwise. I've had ATE Ceramic pads on and they are incredible for low dust characteristics - the wheels just did not get dirty for so much longer than normal pads. Basically, if it hadn't have happened in front of my eyes I wouldn't have believed it.

Rear pads changed. I’d had Ferodo DS2500 front and rear but developed a squeal from the rear which I suspect is because I don’t brake hard enough to keep them clean. Heavy braking sessions would remove it but it would soon come back. Basically, unless you’re driving hard, the rear brakes are a very heathy size compared to the front so the theory is that moving back to standard rear pads will clear it. Pads are Brembo OE spec, VCDS used, tools bought, bled them after, hoping job’s a goodun.