indars

+1 for 2.0 TDI. Have driven 1.6 TDI (old 77kW version, engine CLHA) and it's slow. I was prepared that it will be slower than my 2.0 TDI 110kW -but difference is quite huge.

With idling engine, turn on lights, heater, window heating...what are readings then? Don't know about Octy execution but some voltage regulators are clever these days. My father's '2015 Subary reacts to high energy consumption and only in this moment multimeter shows high charging voltage 13...14 volts (don't remember exact value). But it was Std battery since this car have no StartStop system. But anyway... As for good brends (if old battery is dead indeed): Exide, Varta, Bosch, Yuasa for example. If money allows, take AGM instead of EFB. In simple/funny words, EFB is just cheap version of AGM. Best tool for battery is not multimeter but battery load fork. Every +/- normal workshop should have it. Multimeter is more useful to find parasitic battery drain. P.S. My 2L diesel Octy still have original Varta AGM battery for 6.5 years and 155k km. But I cheated StartStop and it's not working no more (everybody is allowed to ruin private car as she/he likes).

Krosno (Poland) gas struts. Cheap as hell, 5...10min job.

Mine regens after each 200...300km (in winter- more often). It takes exactly 20min and idle is 1000rpm. '2016 car with 155k km on clock.

To point 1: ATE and experienced users of this forum are in different opinion. But with TRW system you should grease them always; but correct grease should be used. Plenty of forums in Russian about this- guys are fighting with sensitive nonstop sticking brakes of various Korean, French and Japanese cars- and looks like TRW PFG 110 is best grease for pins.

Those ATE rear discs are for preFaceLift model.

We're jumping from side foam pieces to battery casing in this post, hehe. Both items are plusminus important and gives (at least) "complete" look of engine bay. My foams are cutted a bit' since I installed gas struts and throw away hood support rod with all it's elements.

Plenty of options for battery casings... Casing with upper cover is 5Q0915411E (cheap versions also on AliExpress). Existing casing 2Q0915418C is without upper cover (just side parts).

Moly is not ok for sliding pins. Best from aftermarket is TRW PFG 110 or Febi 31942 Or nothing, if you have ATE brake system with rubber inserts.

For dimensions: check with ruler by fact; or use car's PR numbers. My car have codes 1ZE front and 1KD rear, for example. For brands: TRW, Bosch, ATE, Ferodo, Textar for example (for normal daily driving). !!! If this is FaceLift model, compare height of rear discs: FL models use higher discs vs pre-FL models, 61mm vs 51mm. Even if PR number is same. For axle beam suspension this is for sure. Not every parts catalogue is dividing this difference.

This is totally wrong. Replace oil a.s.a.p.

If drives fast, a lot, with !!! good fuel- then ok, agree. Anyway, will be pushed to add oil during LongLife interval.

1. It's not completely wrong since any ACEA C3 oil is especially mentioned for cars with DPF due to low sulfated ash content. On other hand, should look how it's suitable for exact engine (PumpeDuese, CommonRail, LongLife, etc.) because reduced amount of sulfated ash in oil is not one and only important parameter. 2. It's not only suitable Castrol 507.00 oil. Castrol EDGE Professional Long Life III also have official 507.00 approval (at least, old Technical Data Sheets says so; don't know current situation) + there's also Castrol GTX 5W-30 C3 but without official 507.00 approval ("CAN be used when car asks for 507.00 oil"). 3. Anyway, if you want keep engine clean for long time, avoid LongLife (30k km) oil changes and stick for 10...15k km interval. C'mon, 5L bottle + filter + replacement costs (virtually) nothing. And no need to stick especially for expensive brands; any officially approved 504.00/507.00 oil (0W30 or 5W30) will be ok if you want count each dollar.

LLLParts A lot of options for door lock No.1 indeed...

Old dry rubber bush is not self-lubricating no more- but who cares since brakes works ok with or without grease. About ATE brake system where pads sits on carrier and caliper tends to turn less (and therefore it's enough just with soft rubber bushes)- good point, haven't thought about this before. Thank you for info!

ATE says not to grease their rubber bushes. I greased them everytime (just need to use neutral-to-rubber grease) and all ok. My BMW friends doesn't grease them because "pull-back action works no more", ahaha.

I suggest to look closer on this. On old brakes pad's ear worns out this place and distance (can be seen on client's photo) can cause rattle.

No, bushes carry load. Little but anyway. Then why TRW system pins and caliper (with built-in bushes) worn out? When brakes are applied, caliper tends to turn to one side since this is not fixed caliper but sliding one.

Caliper works through those bushings. Issue is caliper which is (maybe) rattling. As from my Furby, during 12 years and 275k km never replaced not guide pins, not guide bushings- nothing rattled on my FSIII brakes.

There should not be any distance. Maybe item with "!" is totally worn.

What about new rubber inserts for guide pins?

Bushes must be chosen correctly. Idea is not to take 18mm (example) bush for 18mm bar. Bush must be smaller and parts list indicates for which diam.bar which diam.bush should be used.

With old bolts I wouldn't torque them like this- this is way too much.

Why not to use small zip-tie around broken holder? It just holds electrical connection in place...