KeithCheetham

Usual from me - bluetooth OBD2 and Torque which may allow you to have full screen voltage reading on a phone screen in a windscreen holder in direct view that could possibly allow you to see voltage at ECU when the issue is experienced as it does not appear that there is a proper root cause yet such as voltage loss. Checking on driveway when issue not present may not really represent why it may happen - vibration, components moving under deceleration or lateral movement as typicals. Wino may be able to answer if there is a chance of "busmain" that all battery fuses are mounted on getting cracked or corroded allowing intermittent issue. I stated may above as this Torque method depends on communication between ODB port and ECU, which code readers currently appear not to have, but Torque may operate differently looking for values rather than data stored in a memory chip.

Are you proposing to remove the belt to check as if I remember correctly, you should be able to hold the pulley and do a twisting motion on the pulley, stop the rotation of the pulley and hear the shaft/rotor assy freewheel - one direction only, and also spin the pulley and look for any run-out that may suggest bearing failure in the pulley. Unsure if these pulleys are a common failure item as I never had to replace one on my 170K and 180K old TDI's, but I have had a failure on the 1.9TDI of the belt tensioner pulley. While this may sound the wrong way to do things, are there any local breakers that may have an alternator - many on ebay around the price of a new pulley and tool - as this appears to be a common alternator over the VAG group even over the MK2 Fabia (you would need to take yours to compare bolt hole location including angularity to each other) and may give you a few months warranty, getting you mobile.

I would recommend a new post with a suitable title if the initial 700 - 900 surge is now 700 - 750. What is needed is feedback from someone with an identical car as the lights could be loading the alternator, giving a damping effect, with the unloaded fluctuation being a natural characteristic of this engine. For any doubts on voltage I would suggest my usual response for unknown data collection of using a bluetooth OBD2 adaptor and the Torque app or similar on a phone or tablet to view voltage reported by the ECU,

While the advert header specifies Polo, the compatibility section advises suitable if inputting your Fabia - 2008 - 70bhp - BZG data. Have you checked in this compatibility section with your reg number. Contact the seller for confirmation then if it didn't fit you should have some comeback. Does it generally look the same, i.e. no catalytic converter in pipe. A quick browse of the Bosal catalogue may also help confirm - to me it appears correct but I would suggest you check yourself with reg number and compare by inputting the Polo details. You may want to buy a gasket, front to rear clamp and some exhaust paste to ensure the job can be complete when started, and wire brush/lubricate all the fastener nuts in advance of starting the job. You will also have to remove a lamba sensor from the front pipe and looking on 7-Zap this has a "compression sleeve for front to rear pipe connection which can cause issues - I fitted this pipe on my daughters 2010 Polo and think there was some issue with this clamp when fitting. Below for general info to allow a review of current installation. front silencer rear silencer Skoda Fabia [Fabia (2007 - 2008)] (7zap.com) exhaust pipe with catalyst Skoda Fabia [Fabia (2007 - 2008)] (7zap.com)

Quite often in the spare wheel well. Gives engine code, gearbox code, colour code and general build spec/options list that can be de-coded from an online listing VW Group Option Codes Decoder (igorweb.org)

Search for data but assume it could be wrong, so cross check - against other possibly incorrect info? Your post after that gave the correct source - V5 or car build data tag.

Good to see that sepulchrave has once again fixed an issue, and in only 7 words.

The EGR can be "home" mapped out if suitable equipment and knowledge are available. As with all messing with ECU's, If you get this wrong you may not be able start the car. There have also been suggestions of issues with the Anti Shudder Valve with this mod so something else to consider. This is not suggested as a cure without 1st identifying full details of how the EGT delete was carried out, and more importantly if this is the actual issue.

While the attached post is on a 1.9TDI and is not the same specific issue, I would recommend reading the article as basically a 1.4 is just 3/4 of a 1.9 and this is another proven basically cost free route to identifying possible issues without resorting to garage costs. Regarding the low voltage, could you advise how this is being reported, even possibly adding a screen dump as I have only seen reports of low voltage linked to specific modules when a full scan is carried out with VCDS. What I do see in the "Polo" post is one person having a positive result with an EGR change. This component may already be mapped out with the remap, but if not can be done at home with the correct equipment and understanding of map modification and the ECU allowing changes (ECU model dependant) - I did this myself on my Mk1 BNM 1.4 many years ago. .

Other option, convert CD's to MP3. save on phone and use phones earphone output to 3.5mm aux input in centre console to play through Dance via Aux option button.

There is a listing in the owners handbook suggesting this has a dedicated fuse - no.37 - which may be a good starting point. I would then suggest using a multi-meter to check for voltage at the contacts in the bulb holder, as a visual check of a bulb is not really accurate enough - have you actually tried a different bulb. The next move is to check if you can remove the switch and power the light with a piece of wire bypassing the actual switch contacts, someone such as Wino will hopefully be along soon to advise on terminals.

Please note - These are mechanics, qualified and certified to carry out MOT's with a full understanding of the specific requirements laid out in the MOT Testers Manual, He has obviously carried a spare for 21 years due to not needing it - I cannot understand the logic in the "wasted a lot" statement. I have no idea of the date of the spare in my Greenline that did not have a spare when new, only a bottle of miracle glue which I would have no faith in, so I will have purchased a wheel/tyre of suitable dimension that I periodically check the pressure of. Should I find it is loosing pressure I would get it removed/inspected and re-sealed/seated if applicable. Do you get 5 tyres fitted every time - 1 on each corner and 1 in the boot. This thread is getting stupid with too many keyboard warriors going widely off focus on the original issue.

This scan is from after the error has occurred which does not help unless someone has a similar car which appears to be a CFNA 105hp 1.6 petrol - it was hoped that you had scanned/saved before the changes - , they may then be able to supply the coding from their scan. Modules 09 - Central Electrics and 19 - CAN Gateway also appear to have issues with the CAN Gateway reported as "incorrectly coded". My car is older with an 8.0 ABS system against your 8.2 so I have no data to assist. Hopefully someone with a compatible system will be along soon, but in the mean time answers to my other questions may help clarify the actual issue.

Upgrade by changing coding of existing cluster, or fitting different cluster. If changing coding of existing cluster what software have you used, what exactly did you do/change and have you any previous scans - something such as VCDS may have coding details if previous full scan results saved. Cluster type - unsure if model effects type fitted, a photo may assist. What is the actual issue - no ABS, error message on instrument etc. Have you checked Ross Tech site for any pointers.

Simple answers required 1st based on actual facts:- 1/ Your BNM is a 70BHP car so probably does not have a variable vane turbo. 2/ You say your mate has an identical car, is that also a 70BHP or an 80BHP. If the same original power output, his may have been re-mapped by previous owners hence the perceived power difference. 3/ How long have you had the car, and have the issues only occurred since the re-map. Who remapped it and are they a reputable company, or was it an internet map. 4/ Buy a Bluetooth OBD2 dongle, put Torque on an Android phone and read real time boost pressure - you can also view voltage in real time - or log boost pressure in real time with VCDS. 5/ Is there any pattern to when it occurs - although sound like only happened once (today). 6/ What mileage was the low voltage logged compared to current mileage, if the car had a low voltage 5 years ago - due to no use for a while or similar - without anyone reading the codes and clearing them that code will remain. I have had batteries that only just start the car in winter which can give electronic module messages but never caused an issue with running - its not a Tesla. 7/ What actually happened - acceleration that just suddenly stopped with the car then running at a constant speed (i.e. limp mode where revs will be limited to about 2500rpm but generally accompanied by a warning light in the instrument cluster such as glow plug light flashing), or actually started to slow down (blocked fuel filter or even water in the filter as a possibility which may explain no codes). Unsure where you found "many people are facing the same issue with the pd 1.4" but this is nothing I am not aware of as a common issues, having run a high mileage BNM in a Mk1 for 56K miles.

May be worth getting it scanned with a VAG compatible OBD2 scanner to have a clean bill of health as a starting point of new ownership given the thorough service.

From memory, I think you may find an inflation pressure moulded into the sidewall. Is there anything on the pressure chart in the fuel filler cover.

Yes, the multi point is a 12 point so a 6 cornered allen key may just drop part way in but not engage fully/correctly to transmit sufficient torque.

May be worth looking somewhere like FB Marketplace, or even just a google search for local key cutters to compare with price Timpsons will quote. I hade a key cut to photo off Ebay for about £10 that will open the car should I lock the keys in, but this will not start the car as they need to have the chip that can be matched to the immobiliser. I have had full remote keys cut/coded for Mk1, Mk2 and Polo 6C but my supplier is too far for you. The other question would be quantity of keys linked to the immobiliser as I have just replaced the instrument cluster in mine which, in the Mk2, is a Gen 4 immobiliser having a 4 digit pin number in the cluster that has to match the 4 digit pin number in the ECU (not relevant here but a bit of knowledge for info). After swapping the cluster I had to code (VCDS) the keys to the cluster with one of the requirements being to input the number of keys - assuming you had 2 and have lost 1 the cluster will have 2 keys registered but what happens if you find the spare key and then have 3 keys. Hopefully someone will be able to answer/clarify this and also educate myself. Looks like nige8021 has just clarified "a key cut from an eBay seller £10 and a virgin chip £5 then with VagTacho pulled the PIN code from the immob and with VCDS programmed the chip myself " @Nige8021 do you remember the method to code a chip and could you advise procedure

I would also recommend updating to an Android unit for which you do not need to spend a large amount on top of a 2nd hand Dance - typ below - which will allow additional functions such as Sat Nav, storing music onboard instead of using CD's, DAB with units that can be connected via USB, Bluetooth for hands free, and even reversing camera's. Be aware that there are units with Windows CE as the operating system which appear to not offer the same options so possibly steer clear of these but not always easy to identify in advert spec. A facia may be required and addition wiring converter cable. Double DIN 7" Android 10.1 Car Stereo GPS Navi MP5 Radio Player 2+16GB UK- | eBay The one below does not mention operating system, but I would think Windows CE even while mentioning Android in the title - probably only Android phone connection. 1x 7" Double Din Car Stereo with Carplay Android Auto MP5 Player Radio+Camera | eBay

As Wino states, we either need a photo of the plug or confirmation from below regarding the type of plug fitted as I an quite sure that a hexagon will fit into the star type, but the security feature requires a hollow in the tool to allow full engagement - a hex would have minimal engagement due to the pip in the bottom of the plug. Regarding torque values (believe text is wrong and one should be with serrations, one without) this will be based on either the type of drive fitted as the star type will transmit more torque so possibly the hexagon type cannot fully transmit the full torque required but the amount possible is suitable, the actual thread size may differ, or there could be a different seating. VW engineer products so would not change things without good reason.

Model 2 doesn't have a gauge, model 3 does have, model 1 not applicable as not available with 1.4 16V per 2008 Fabia brochure. If a model 2 OBD dongle and Torque or similar will be required by OP to read "reported" temp as the lack of a gauge is replaced by a blue light that extinguishes at 45 deg.C per Torque. This allowed me to identify defective thermostat on my Greenline with only the blue light. There has been a recent post of non-starting (as suggested in original post) which turned out to be CTS giving a reported temp of over 100 deg.c when cold triggering a not allowed to start lock out.

"little computer" - is that a VAG Group specific code reader or a generic reader. I would strongly recommend getting any codes read through VCDS or similar if not, for which there is a map of owners on here. You may be better off adding an engine code to allow the people more experience in petrol to assist.

Usual questions to allow a better understanding of issue:- 1/ How long has this been happening, and has it been a gradually occurring issue (getting worse over time) or did it start "overnight". 2/ Has this co-insided with any maintenance, especially changing fuel filter. 3/ "Reluctantly have decided to update" - please clarify what you are suggesting, have you modified something or are you looking to sell. 4/ If you want to try an additive, what type are you looking at - injector cleaner etc - look what is available locally and carry out online reviews. There are no reasons to not use one as products from reputable companies should have no detrimental effect and may provide a resolution. 5/ Most importantly, have you done a scan with a VW group specific scanner which may report issues. 6/ Any chance of dodgy fuel.

Kharls 1st post was regarding ground clearance, which in the later post changed to lack of traction and reducing tyre pressure to try and overcome this - therefore reducing rolling diameter/ground clearance. As with many posts, lack of clarity of actual/all issues results in re-assessment of resolutions later. This is why on my site visits to refineries or oil rigs with issues, I always talk to the machinery operators to obtain a full and true detailed report of what is actually wrong, and why I often list extended questions in posts on here - Root Cause Analysis.