KeithCheetham

Given this info you should be able to identify the number and buy one off Ebay, or similar if required. I have taken a note of the number on mine as my only worry would be changing a wheel and not replacing back in its usual storage point or leaving at the road side. Given OE nuts/key there should be no concern on the depth of the profile which you stated as a concern - but cost is not great.

This has not clarified if you have Skoda original or aftermarket but hopefully you can look at photos of original on Ebay to identify manufacture, and as stated if original you should find a number on the key to allow ordering a "spare". I would just suggest removing the bolts before you are forced to at the side of the road and clean the threads with a wire brush - and this may be contentious and bring some comments up - adding copper grease or similar before re-fitting. The wheel wrench supplied with the car is not a torque wrench, so any comments on co-efficient of friction being different for lubricated fasteners are irrelevant in the real world. Will wait for the "querty" replies on this comment.

I have only ever seen a number stamped in the locking nut key. As @roottoothas stated, an understanding of the background to the question may support an actual technical answer rather than qwerty. SKODA LOCKING WHEEL NUT BOLT KEY MASTER KEY REMOVER ALL NUMBER JUST SEND PICTURE | eBay

DPF sensor change makes this a Mk2, and also already stated as a 1.6TDI. I would strongly suggest getting the car read for error codes with VCDS as "many garages" may be using a generic reader. While unrelated to this issue, I would also personally do what I have told the person in the below post to do regarding a bluetooth OBD2 and Torque app, and also DPF Free as you can look for boost values and also DPF loading. This would allow you to provide some genuine information to allow people to comment on.

Often repeated comment by me - ODB2 bluetooth dongle and Torque app on an Android phone or tablet. With the phone in a holder in eye view while driving this is possible. I have an Android headunit fitted to use GPS and allow DAB, with a screen shot below - there are different gauges that you can chose. Unsure if car has an oil temperature sender. Smell and raised tick-over suggests DPF regen, and long run may correct this as the car may not have travelled enough distance to complete the regen. There is a app - DPF Free? - that may also be usable via the OBD2 dongle that would report DPF loading, that may be suitable for you engine code but not suitable for my 1.4TDI Greenline.

I think that a scan on VCDS is needed 1st to ascertain any underlying issues that may have pre-existed - faulty injector wiring etc, as while the "specialist" has changed one issue into another (worse one) it may be possible for someone with the necessary VCDS experience to set the coding to that actually relevant to the injectors then at least the OP would have a system at the original baseline/configuration. I am also unsure if the "specialist" has changed an issue on 1 injector to an issue with all 4 injectors. This is why I questioned the base trade of this specialist - are they a VAG specialist who "dabbles" with fuel injection, or a fuel injection specialist.

You may want to try and find someone local with VCDS - there is a listing somewhere on here - who can scan the car to give a full report on any issues. Dependant on their experience using the programme, they may even be able to read the injector values and adjust to the required if there appears to be an issue. The fact that they say they cannot put back to the original values may suggest they did not record these values. What sort of specialists are these - VW/Audi or Bosch fuel injection.

Can you clarify the statement "but a little bit harder".

So basically if you jack a wheel up:- 1/ Before engine running ensure wheel rotates freely. You may need to pump the pedal a few times to try and evacuate any vacuum that may be present from running engine. 2/ If when engine is started wheel does not rotate as you say - if this is the case have someone starting to rotate the wheel with engine not running and while still rotating start the engine. Does rotation become hard or even stop immediately the engine starts. 3/ If rotation does stop with engine running, keep the engine running and slacken the master cylinder to servo brakes - if this frees the wheel, either if studs and nuts cut some washers to form a 'C' shape to allow sliding over the studs between the master cylinder and servo, or if bolts fit washers between master cylinder and servo using washers of a suitable thickness to ensure brake still rotates freely when tightened back up. 4/ If washers leave wheel to rotate freely leave in place and test drive "EXTREMELLY CAREFULLY" to try brake operation. 5/ Which you may want to try before 3/, pull vacuum pipe from servo, not forgetting that there could be a non-return valve at the servo connection and see if rotation is free with engine running. These checks should identify if a servo issue or master cylinder issue rather than collapsed hoses or dirt in system and will allow people to comment with new suggestions. ADDITIONAL - You may want to try these checks on each wheel - jack NS and OS front and rear separately to ensure not an individual circuit issue.

Based on previous post where it was just a shudder, is this with the old injectors being re-coded, or with the new injectors they suggested that you needed. If the old injectors may be worth either getting them to try a re-code again, or visiting another garage who may re-code differently as new injectors will be costly.

I have use J and R drive shafts off Ebay with success. They have the full driveshafts for around £58 subject to confirmation of exact year/model. SKODA FABIA & ROOMSTER 1.4 TDi & 1.9 TDi DRIVE SHAFT NEAR/SIDE 2003>2010 7109675830868 | eBay

@StewartasbIf you get them out it would be interesting to see photos of them both side by side to try and ascertain the difference as there are 2 7-ZAP pages quoted in replies giving different info. This could be based on original fitment - central locking with or without remote or other details. Someone may also see something that is not really obvious on initial comparison as I would expect some resistance when fitting such as a sprung tab. As pointed out the forum is about learning/knowledge so really this post requires a clarified close out.

Bluetooth OBD2, Torque App on an Android phone or tablet, window mount and view - subject to correct data being reported - real time boost. The vacuum dial shows boost when turbo working, obviously tick-over on screen dump.

They may be interchangeable given that when you insert a key into the lock, you turn it clockwise or anti-clockwise dependant on function - lock or unlock - no matter which door you use. Am I over simplifying this. There was a post in the Mk2 section where someone swapped the barrels. No mention of handing:- door lock Skoda Fabia [Fabia (2000 - 2006)] (7zap.com) Read down in this post:-

Is the 2 second start possibly an immobiliser issue. On stock cars they usually start and then cut-out after a second or 2. What boost are you expecting as 1.3 bar is only 19psi so does not sound excessive.

What year is you car, may assist future questions if you add year and possibly engine in your signature. I have a pre facelift Mk 2 which I fitted a Android head unit to and that goes off after a few seconds which I assume is the CAN shutting down. I know there are issues with a red and a yellow wire - both in original harness - that may want swapping as one is ignition powered while the other is permanent live for radios memory function. Pre/post facelift may be different, hence comment on adding details in signature. careful just swapping wires until someone clarifies, or unless you are comfortable with a multi-meter and can check for permanent/ignition switched power.

As you have now bought the adaptors, you may want to try other free software - I have just tried Garage Pro as used by @AnnoyingPentiumwhich the spec suggests MAY look at different module in the car and give error messages but not allow clearing so would just be for info, I do not think that there is any issue with the systems on VW's that would make them any different to other manufacturers. If you want to confirm which systems you have used and found user-unfriendly there may be people on here to assist you in understanding how to use them.

Was the old one professionally tested and what was the result.

Strongly suggest taking this up with Darkside as they will be the people you need to speak too if there are any issues. Even pictures of each may will provide an answer on cross sectional area which with the reduction in depth may allow a quick/simple calculation. Is there a specific reason for looking to fit one of these?

Don't just change the battery - get it tested by someone with the correct knowledge/equipment who can carry out all the correct tests rather than just looking at voltage - they may be able to perform an alternator test while the tester is clipped on the battery. Batteries do not have a use by date, and this is not a Tesla so a battery is not critical to the running of the car and may have no effect on the alarm with this minimal voltage drop on the battery. Regarding the bonnet switch, is this a normally open or normally closed contact when the bonnet is closed as unplugging may not give the expected result - Wino may provide the answer based on a wiring diagram.

There are technically what people may consider 2 types of "electrics" in a key - the type that is for the remote central locking, and the glass chip for the immobilizer. Could you clarify what the exact issue is, and what you require. I am not sure either would just work, and may require programming through software.

To do that much damage, either barrel rotates too much with key (key angular rotation position greater than required by lock) or lock mechanism stiff so suggest lubricating lock mechanism, and putting repair kit into passenger side side while leaving passenger side barrel in drivers door - this will have had much less use and as such will have less wear. May sound obvious, but there will be a cause behind the damage that needs identifying to totally resolve issue.

@BigEjit This is the type of "geeky" posts that we really do require so no apology required, but I wonder if it would also be advantageous for you to repeat this into a new post titled AGM - EFB - Stop Start or something similar with this info and possibly, if you have the knowledge and data, explaining the difference in chargers - Acumate, Ctek, generic old school type - to ensure we all use the correct type, info on the hidden stop/start features as I believe that this would allow easier availability in a search. Your post has cleared up many things for me, including some simple things such as the date location on the post, and is the type of info I really enjoy.

Persevere with the VCDS which is basically dealer level - abate in a Lite version that you are using. Nige is correct with his method, but I have never been required to chose the COM port so assume VCDS allocates this. What is the software you are using with the OBD2, and is the adaptor bluetooth as I would still push Torque, only based on personal experience, which can also report error codes, but is not based on VAG architecture being generic like many. I have never seen a "Pending Faults" message, being basically VCDS and Torque reliant. What does "Show Details" reveal?

Charger make/model details required to understand how it should be used and if disconnection required - charges such as Ctek have looms to wire to battery so that battery is not required to be diss-connected. A new battery may want coding to the car via VCDS or similar - never understood this concept - only because never needed too. Car is nor a Tesla - simple terms battery is required to supply enough voltage and amperage at start-up, and to allow sufficient voltage to be maintained, with alternator support for ancillary equipment requirements - heater, lights, ECU functions. Your only issue appears to be longer charging which may just be that the edge has been taken off it. The only requirements that I can see are testing of the battery, and an understanding of how this charger should be used as you mention "charge it weekly" and also "I have the type of charger which is meant to be left on all the time when the vehicle is not in use".