Titanium_Man

Nah, can’t agree with this .... back in the day when I worked in insurance claims I came across many cases over the years whereby the non-fault party had been provided with a hire car for a lot longer than the repairs were gonna take (according to audatext) and I / the at fault insurers refused to pay for the difference. Also seen it with total losses.... there’s an agreed period of time a customer is allowed a hire car after total loss and I have seen several hire car claims refused as the customer took much, much longer than that. Also, I don’t believe you can claim for whiplash type injuries anymore.

I stand corrected. Thanks for saving me trawling though the course material I’ve got 👍

I’m gonna check this, but I believe any crack over 25mm Long is an MOT failure regardless of cords showing or not..... will update this once my Mac has updated and I can access the material

Quality and amount of materials, differing designs, where it’s been made, % markup added etc will of course determine the cost to the consumer.

This is how mine started. Got a local repair guy to strip it back, treat and repaint. It came back after about 18 months. Changed the tailgate for a clean one in the end

No rust there ... she’s a keeper 🤣

If it was properly knackered, but I’m guessing you’re not at that point? Start with the free things like checking the battery and alternator and take it from there.

I’ve owned 3 now and 2 didn’t have rust there but one did. I’ve seen a few parked up that had it also. It’s the same with the tailgate above the reg plate or inside the rear arch liners. Some do some don’t.

Why do you think the fly?! I assume you’ve not had the ECU scanned? It’s not unheard of for new parts to be defective. I’ve had a brand new tensioner go on me, a brand new set of tyreS crack within 2k miles, new brake discs warp inside 18 months.....

Have you checked the condition of the battery and alternator? Possibly the battery is not holding charge.

I was wondering that.....

Yes, it’s a pretty easy job to do. Cheapo discs and pads maybe around £60 for fronts only, maybe around £20 per hose. Then you’ll need to bleed the brakes, so some kind of eazibleee or homemade system depending if you’re doing on your own or not, plus new fluid and the correct tools, of course.

.... which could make for a very interesting build thread 👍

I also have very limited knowledge at this point, but a hot-spot in the combustion chamber can cause ore-ignition and therefore a misfire.

End of an era, John 🤧 I’ve always enjoyed seeing your car in many beautiful places, and your storey about your silver Fabia lasting longer than your previous ladies apart from the current one is very similar to mine 😂 Good luck with your new motor 🤙

My old dear’s car had 2k on the clock and was also worth about £7k.

Yup, lights and wheels were included, but it got written off in the end. This model of MG is cheap brand new, which is was.

It won’t be all that far off IMO. This damage cost about the same as that ....

Welcome back, Phil-E👍

Any pictures??

It could be that the handbrake cable is stretched? Had to replace mine due to this. Did you by a new or used calliper? If its used, you may have purchased one in the same condition as your old one. Can you move the mechanism with your hand?

As in the Briskoda ones?!

This was how I was told to get the joint off the other month when I changed the CV boot.