MikeTheThinker

Welcome, Mick. I have happy memories (some time ago) of Cork - including an enterprising taxi driver who hired himself to me for the day and took me to the Blarney Woolen Mills where I spent (quite) a bit One of our forum regulars ( @mac11irl) lives over in your neck of the woods and I'm sure he'll be along to says his own hellos. He can probably give you pointers as to good Skoda service garages in the area, too.

It is _just_ possible that SGS did not receive your initial email (emails do get sidetracked at times) so I suggest the following: 1) Write to them (recorded delivery) and politely explain your problem and what you expect them to do about it. Include the piccies. 2) Point out you have previously attempted to bring this to their attention (refer to the email and include a copy) but have so far received no response. 3) Give them 14 days to provide an acceptable response to your complaint and advise that should they fail to so do you will proceed to claim against them for your losses via the Small Claims procedure. 4) After 21 days (just in case) and no acceptable response raise a claim online and incluide your initial purchase costs (receipt), piccies of the problem and any other costs you have incurred in pursuing the matter. You can include preparation costs for a letter and mailing costs but be sensible. 5) Unless they can show evidence they have addressed your issues the claim will be established and you can apply for default judgement, which will include your claim and any related (including court) costs.

Nice dog! Is it the nozzle fitting on the parts diagram HERE that you need?

As I understand it the obligation to report a vehicle's accident/repair history for a private sale is a moral rather than a legal one, so it's up to you whether you advertise it with history or just sell it "as seen" as a vehicle now surplus to requirements. Again as I understand the issue of liability only applies if you misdescribe the vehicle at sale.

On the surface I'd agree with @MicMac- the prices do seem extraordinarily high. Is it possiblle your stealer is trying to put you off the repairs (perhaps to make you buy another car from them) by quoting silly prices? This LINK will show you the parts diagram and parts catalogue entries for a 2010 set of roof rails. These are for European models but even of yours came from China I don't see things like roof rails being any different. A bit of ferreting about on the same site will show you the details for a China-sourced car (if there is one). Fitting a roof rail is not difficult - much easier on a mk2 than a mk1! In essence, remove 3 access covers (suggest you use a plastic trim removal tool - dead cheap on ebay or Amazon) then undo the three M6 allen bolts and lift off the rail. Clean, lightly grease the bolts and fit the new rail. I can't find you a torque setting but nip up firmly but don't wring its neck As regards sourcing the part/s I tried a quick Google{tm} and came up with many offers here in the UK or Europe from UKP70 to UJKP130 so I'm quite sure there must be some around in Oz. Shipping may complicate matters as some carriers don't like long packages. As regards the other jobs, if the chrome failure is on the gear knob they really are taking the pi$$ as the knob is literally a screw on/off part! Straight replacement of the coolant bottle is easy but messy in that you have to depressurise the cooling system first, uncouple and drain off the old reservoir, fir the new one, top up the coolant and check for leaks in operation. Remember also to wash down the work area to remove splashed coolant. The washer bottle is a bit more awkward but relatively straightforward; jack up NSF wheel, remove wheel, remove forward wheel arch liner, decouple and remove washer bottle, check and replace hoses if necessary, reassemble. None of these are beyond a reasonable home mechanic.

Try these. The estate and hatchback are very similar:

You could also try self-amalgamating tape, although it can get bulky if you use a lot.

Silicone RTB sealer; black, durable and sticks like ☆☆☆☆

If the head gasket is leaking the cylinder gasses (including oil) get pushed out past the gasket and usually into the water jacket - hence the check for emulsion in the radiator fluid. On the inlet stroke the vacuum caused by the piston falling in the cylinder may then suck in water via a failed head gasket which can lead to water in the oil and poor running. This situation is likely to increase oil consumption but I can't see it increasing to the levels you are describing.

If it's eating coolant you should check for a head gasket leak, Usual signs include an emulsion collected around the oil filler cap, evidence of oil in the radiator water reservoir and/or water droplets on the dipstick, If it progresses you will gradually lose performance on the affected cylinder. Check normally via a compression test,

Approaching snarkasm, methinks

eBay has sent a note today advising of some "revisions" to their money-back guarantee. On a quick read I note that motor vehicles are not covered, so once you buy it - it's yours. I don't know if this represents a change but I for one didn't know such were not covered. "Excluded items Real Estate Websites, Businesses for Sale Digital content, Intangible goods Classified Ads Services Travel tickets or vouchers Industrial construction machinery Motor vehicles, including recreational vehicles, aircraft and boats" https://www.ebay.co.uk/help/policies/ebay-money-back-guarantee-policy/ebay-money-back-guarantee-policy?id=4210

Not sure if this is any help but my web ferreting confirmed that it's a "Simple Vector Data Matrix Icon" but I couldn't find any claims to ownership thereof :( [Update] I've attached an (almost) orthogonal clip of the icon and I now know how to get you a T-shirt made from it if you want one

Can you try to record the noise and post it?

Try turning on the ignition then walking around the car listening for the location of the noise. Suggest you open the bonnet and boot first. BTW what year & model is your car and is it petrol or diesel?

Does the noise occur without the engine running?

Yes. Hatchback and estate seats are interchangeable for 4-door models.

You'll need input from a 1.8T member, I'm afraid. I'm good at helping find part numbers but all our cars are diesels. Perhaps @DeanVRS20VT or @mac11irl might be able to help?

Take a look HERE for N75 possibilities ... Still looking for blow-off valve sources.

You need to give your engine code as the air intakes for various engines differ. The link HERE is for the parts catalogue for a 2010 2 litre diesel (BKD,AZV,BMM). Can you locate the fasteners you need on the diagram?

The boot latch (what you described as the bottom part) is the bit with the solenoid IIRC. From distant memory it only has a single wire feed - but do check that - and if so it operates on receipt of 12v and completes the circuit to ground. If this is correct then check the ground connections first (corrosion, loose fittings) and then disconnect the latch from the harness and check for operation with a 12v line. If there are more than one connection to the latch DON'T put power to it as it is likely being monitored by the car's central control module. As regards replacement, a power-only latch should be a straight swap but a monitored latch may need coding to the car. I'd suggest asking the question on the Diagnostics and VCDS section.

I'm assuming from your description that your car is a saloon, not an estate? The parts catalogue for an MY2007 Octavia 2 saloon indicates 1Z5 827 501 D as the lock mechanism - see HERE - but it's always worth a final check with your dealer. You can also check by inspecting the lock itself, upon which there will be a part number. Before you leap into a replacement lock, however, I'd take a careful look at the electrics which operate it; it is quite likely the fault lies in or around the operating solenoid rather than in the mechanics of the lock itself. Check for dirty connections, corroded or broken wires and finally for a failed solenoid, There's also a microswitch in the door handle which may be faulty.

I have a set of VRS leather seats available. PM if of interest.

Is the drone steady or does it seem to pulse?

I didn't know that - thanks!