MikeTheThinker

Compliments of Google[tm] Translate[tm]: "Hello everyone, very warmly, I'm new here. I have a problem with my 2016 Skoda Octavia 1.8 Cjsa Style. The car is equipped with PDC and PLA. The problem is that after retrofitting with a rear view camera and coding, you cannot activate the Ops from the button When approaching an obstacle, the OPS is not displayed on the columbus, and it cannot be activated from the button, so all camera and OPS functions are working. Please help. Roger77."

Apologies; I misinterpreted your need and thought you were looking for a seal for the air inlet under the scuttle.

Is THIS what you need?

Just drive the car for a few minutes and all non-error lights should go out. Octys like showing off their dashboard telltales after the battery has been disconnected.

A scan will show an error for the alarm but the car will run fine without it. BTW if you have it set up to beep the alarm horn on lock etc. it won't

It's a straightforward but messy job, and - as a suggestion - it might be worth fitting a disable switch after you get to it (perhaps loop through the bulkhead to a switch inside the cabin). Here are a series of links, but I feel the easiest way to grasp the problem would be to read the attached pdf of the Russion Skoda Club blog entry (regerenced in one of the links below also). I had to negotiate with Google Translate [tm] a bit but I got there in the end 1. Parts diagram and catalogue for the alarm is HERE. 2. Long Briskoda thread discussing alarm replacement is HERE. 3. Workshop Manuals page for alarm is HERE. 4. Another Workshop Manuals information page is HERE. 5. Don't know if this will work but a link to a translation of the Russian Skoda Blog is HERE. Have fun! Repair _ replacement of the standard alarm siren on a SKODA Octavia A5 FL car Repair Skoda-Ural.ru Blog.pdf

Not unless there's some other reason, such as damage to the bumper cutout for the vent that can't be reached from in front. Take a look HERE for the parts catalogue and diagram. It may help you visualise the job.

It just clips in. Gentle application of a hair dryer can make the plastic more amenable if the weather is cold.

When I tried last year Skoda said it wasn't listed as a separate part. I eventually bought a complete switch (it was a left hand drive one) from aliexpress and stole the know from it. Much cheaper than either a breaker or a new UK switch. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000092950008.html About 3 squid posted.

Others will no doubt comment but I'd check the hose from the crankcase breather. If it's split or off you'll get crankcase fumes which smell pretty acrid.

It looks pretty clean from the outside. What's the rest of it like?

I believe they are at least compatible but you can check for yourself here(pFL) and here(FL). The part number is the same but the extension letter (version) is different. Probably worth asking a good breaker.

Pardon a possibly obvious question, but as you seem to have multiple electrical failures in one location but with good 12v feeds - have you checked for a good earth/0V connection?

The social introduction "I'm a van banker" has its problems, too ...

Also, and pardon the stating of the obvious, keep a close eye on the engine oil level!

I'm sorry, you are correct. It's been a tough day and I wasn't concentrating as well as I should.

As you will see from the parts diagram HERE the bonnet is one piece, so your options are to fix it as suggested above or replace it.

Just a thought; have you had the brake fluid checked for moisture and general condition?

This may or may not be relevent but when I had a similar problem on our mk1 Octy it turned out to be the steering pump fluid needing replacing.

I have a pair of the original glass-lenses headlights buried in my garage if they're any use to you. Not sure if they're off a standard or a vrs - or if they're any different at all.

@oldunsmight be able to point you at good suppliers.

I also may have some relevent bits but I'm a) away from home at the moment and b) tied up with jury service for (hopefully) the next couple of weeks. On my next home visit I will delve into the dusty corners and take a look-see. Sorry it can't be any quicker.

I used to use Decosol and was very happy with its performance, but it seems to have gone from the market 😞

I can't answer your specific questions but the most common cause of such odd electrical gremlins on Octies is corroded connectors. Even unplugging and replugging can make a difference. Also (from the back of my memory) there's something about the CCM flagging a bulb as failed and not clearing the flag until the car is switched off and on again.

There is a comprehensive thread somewhere on here which describes the stripping, diagnosis and repair or an alarm unit - rather as you are now doing. I'll try to find it but do have a look see. Also, I've PM-ed you some more info which may be helpful.