MikeTheThinker

It was an economic insurance write off so first thing I'd ask is "what damage was involved and what repairs were made".

If you go back to the same site as your picture for the FL mat you will be able to find a picture of a pre-FL mat for comparison (www.skoda-parts.com).

Try skodaparts.com in CZ. They're good and don't rip you off.

A quick look at the parts diagram for a 2003 Fabia doesn't show any fasteners for the roof panel, suggesting that it is iether welded or bonded in place. The same diagram for an Octavia includes details of the bonding agent so that may be a clue? The roof trim details are here, although I'm not sure how helpful they are in this case. Again, on the Octavia the roof rail mounting bolts go through the roof and are fastened down by nuts from the inside, so a possible water ingress route there if the Fabia is the same. Note: you list a Fabia as your vehicle in your details but have posted this in the Octavia forum; which car do you need help with?

This sounds like "I don't want to fit a secondhand window motor" rather than "You can't ...". There are several threads on here regarding exactly that activity; main issue seems to be tackling and replacing the rivets used to secure the protective metal inner door plate - the pop rivets are (I understand) not a common size.

According to the parts catalogue there are three bumper forms, linked below and (hopefully) highlighting the towing eye cover. 2004 standard - 1Z5807441 2004 VRS - 1Z5807441A 2004 Scout - 1Z9807441

Can any trunking be used here, or does it have to be a specific type?

You are - of course - correct. I'm on jury service on a long trial and my tired brain insisted on seeing your request as for wheel studs, not hub studs. Apologies for the confusion and the complete *******s I made of trying to help. I've updated my post to avoid any confusion.

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As I understand it a visible patch such as you describe (and we all used to use) would be an mot fail, but an invisible repair would not.

Compliments of Google[tm] Translate[tm]: "Hello everyone, very warmly, I'm new here. I have a problem with my 2016 Skoda Octavia 1.8 Cjsa Style. The car is equipped with PDC and PLA. The problem is that after retrofitting with a rear view camera and coding, you cannot activate the Ops from the button When approaching an obstacle, the OPS is not displayed on the columbus, and it cannot be activated from the button, so all camera and OPS functions are working. Please help. Roger77."

Apologies; I misinterpreted your need and thought you were looking for a seal for the air inlet under the scuttle.

Is THIS what you need?

Just drive the car for a few minutes and all non-error lights should go out. Octys like showing off their dashboard telltales after the battery has been disconnected.

A scan will show an error for the alarm but the car will run fine without it. BTW if you have it set up to beep the alarm horn on lock etc. it won't

It's a straightforward but messy job, and - as a suggestion - it might be worth fitting a disable switch after you get to it (perhaps loop through the bulkhead to a switch inside the cabin). Here are a series of links, but I feel the easiest way to grasp the problem would be to read the attached pdf of the Russion Skoda Club blog entry (regerenced in one of the links below also). I had to negotiate with Google Translate [tm] a bit but I got there in the end 1. Parts diagram and catalogue for the alarm is HERE. 2. Long Briskoda thread discussing alarm replacement is HERE. 3. Workshop Manuals page for alarm is HERE. 4. Another Workshop Manuals information page is HERE. 5. Don't know if this will work but a link to a translation of the Russian Skoda Blog is HERE. Have fun! Repair _ replacement of the standard alarm siren on a SKODA Octavia A5 FL car Repair Skoda-Ural.ru Blog.pdf

Not unless there's some other reason, such as damage to the bumper cutout for the vent that can't be reached from in front. Take a look HERE for the parts catalogue and diagram. It may help you visualise the job.

It just clips in. Gentle application of a hair dryer can make the plastic more amenable if the weather is cold.

When I tried last year Skoda said it wasn't listed as a separate part. I eventually bought a complete switch (it was a left hand drive one) from aliexpress and stole the know from it. Much cheaper than either a breaker or a new UK switch. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000092950008.html About 3 squid posted.

Others will no doubt comment but I'd check the hose from the crankcase breather. If it's split or off you'll get crankcase fumes which smell pretty acrid.

It looks pretty clean from the outside. What's the rest of it like?

I believe they are at least compatible but you can check for yourself here(pFL) and here(FL). The part number is the same but the extension letter (version) is different. Probably worth asking a good breaker.

Pardon a possibly obvious question, but as you seem to have multiple electrical failures in one location but with good 12v feeds - have you checked for a good earth/0V connection?

The social introduction "I'm a van banker" has its problems, too ...

Also, and pardon the stating of the obvious, keep a close eye on the engine oil level!