MikeTheThinker

Just had a quick look through the "cars for sale" classifieds and there's a vrs saloon for good money advertised in Plymouth. I haven't checked if it's been sold but there's no update on the forum to that effect.

1. Once you commit to delivery you will find it much harder to back out, especially if they already have your money. 2. Do the AA/RAC/etc. still offer inspection services? Later: yes, they do. https://www.theaa.com/vehicle-inspection/

From what I posted and what my insurers said I'd say that would be a fair bid but at the moment used car proces are strong so you may have a fight on your hands. I'd strongly suggest you look at the insurance damage/repair situation and the service record before offering. It _looks_ a nice car but - as they say - beauty is only skin deep!

FYI one direct way of differentiating between a facelifted mk1 and a pre-FL mk2 is to look at the sidelamp/headlamp area. On a FL mk1 the sidelamp and headlamp are separate units and on a pre-FL mk2 they are combined into one headlamp unit. I missed that when checking on my phone so again my apologies.

Parker's valuations for the car in normal good condition: Private Price £640 - £880 Dealer Price £1,415 - £2,060 Based on 170,000 miles with no optional extras My insurers gave me a rough estimate of the discount for a repaired Cat D car of 25% from the above values, although I have no other figures to compare against that one. I would say that IMO the asking price is a little high.

In case you haven't checked the car details on DVLA here's what they hold for it: Vehicle Details Vehicle make SKODA Date of first registration September 2005 Year of manufacture 2005 Cylinder capacity 1781 cc CO₂ emissions 192 g/km Fuel type PETROL Euro status Not available Real Driving Emissions (RDE) Not available Export marker No Vehicle status Untaxed Vehicle colour SILVER Vehicle type approval M1 Wheelplan 2 AXLE RIGID BODY Revenue weight Not available Date of last V5C (logbook) issued 20 August 2020

It is a mk1 and they were made until model year 2004 although many have turned up with later registrations, My identifying it as a mk2 was incorrect - I looked at it on my phone and got it wrong. When Ryan pointed it out as a mk1 I checked on my PC and he's right, of course.

It was an economic insurance write off so first thing I'd ask is "what damage was involved and what repairs were made".

If you go back to the same site as your picture for the FL mat you will be able to find a picture of a pre-FL mat for comparison (www.skoda-parts.com).

Try skodaparts.com in CZ. They're good and don't rip you off.

A quick look at the parts diagram for a 2003 Fabia doesn't show any fasteners for the roof panel, suggesting that it is iether welded or bonded in place. The same diagram for an Octavia includes details of the bonding agent so that may be a clue? The roof trim details are here, although I'm not sure how helpful they are in this case. Again, on the Octavia the roof rail mounting bolts go through the roof and are fastened down by nuts from the inside, so a possible water ingress route there if the Fabia is the same. Note: you list a Fabia as your vehicle in your details but have posted this in the Octavia forum; which car do you need help with?

This sounds like "I don't want to fit a secondhand window motor" rather than "You can't ...". There are several threads on here regarding exactly that activity; main issue seems to be tackling and replacing the rivets used to secure the protective metal inner door plate - the pop rivets are (I understand) not a common size.

According to the parts catalogue there are three bumper forms, linked below and (hopefully) highlighting the towing eye cover. 2004 standard - 1Z5807441 2004 VRS - 1Z5807441A 2004 Scout - 1Z9807441

Can any trunking be used here, or does it have to be a specific type?

You are - of course - correct. I'm on jury service on a long trial and my tired brain insisted on seeing your request as for wheel studs, not hub studs. Apologies for the confusion and the complete *******s I made of trying to help. I've updated my post to avoid any confusion.

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As I understand it a visible patch such as you describe (and we all used to use) would be an mot fail, but an invisible repair would not.

Compliments of Google[tm] Translate[tm]: "Hello everyone, very warmly, I'm new here. I have a problem with my 2016 Skoda Octavia 1.8 Cjsa Style. The car is equipped with PDC and PLA. The problem is that after retrofitting with a rear view camera and coding, you cannot activate the Ops from the button When approaching an obstacle, the OPS is not displayed on the columbus, and it cannot be activated from the button, so all camera and OPS functions are working. Please help. Roger77."

Apologies; I misinterpreted your need and thought you were looking for a seal for the air inlet under the scuttle.

Is THIS what you need?

Just drive the car for a few minutes and all non-error lights should go out. Octys like showing off their dashboard telltales after the battery has been disconnected.

A scan will show an error for the alarm but the car will run fine without it. BTW if you have it set up to beep the alarm horn on lock etc. it won't

It's a straightforward but messy job, and - as a suggestion - it might be worth fitting a disable switch after you get to it (perhaps loop through the bulkhead to a switch inside the cabin). Here are a series of links, but I feel the easiest way to grasp the problem would be to read the attached pdf of the Russion Skoda Club blog entry (regerenced in one of the links below also). I had to negotiate with Google Translate [tm] a bit but I got there in the end 1. Parts diagram and catalogue for the alarm is HERE. 2. Long Briskoda thread discussing alarm replacement is HERE. 3. Workshop Manuals page for alarm is HERE. 4. Another Workshop Manuals information page is HERE. 5. Don't know if this will work but a link to a translation of the Russian Skoda Blog is HERE. Have fun! Repair _ replacement of the standard alarm siren on a SKODA Octavia A5 FL car Repair Skoda-Ural.ru Blog.pdf

Not unless there's some other reason, such as damage to the bumper cutout for the vent that can't be reached from in front. Take a look HERE for the parts catalogue and diagram. It may help you visualise the job.

It just clips in. Gentle application of a hair dryer can make the plastic more amenable if the weather is cold.