MikeTheThinker

If the head gasket is leaking the cylinder gasses (including oil) get pushed out past the gasket and usually into the water jacket - hence the check for emulsion in the radiator fluid. On the inlet stroke the vacuum caused by the piston falling in the cylinder may then suck in water via a failed head gasket which can lead to water in the oil and poor running. This situation is likely to increase oil consumption but I can't see it increasing to the levels you are describing.

If it's eating coolant you should check for a head gasket leak, Usual signs include an emulsion collected around the oil filler cap, evidence of oil in the radiator water reservoir and/or water droplets on the dipstick, If it progresses you will gradually lose performance on the affected cylinder. Check normally via a compression test,

Approaching snarkasm, methinks

eBay has sent a note today advising of some "revisions" to their money-back guarantee. On a quick read I note that motor vehicles are not covered, so once you buy it - it's yours. I don't know if this represents a change but I for one didn't know such were not covered. "Excluded items Real Estate Websites, Businesses for Sale Digital content, Intangible goods Classified Ads Services Travel tickets or vouchers Industrial construction machinery Motor vehicles, including recreational vehicles, aircraft and boats" https://www.ebay.co.uk/help/policies/ebay-money-back-guarantee-policy/ebay-money-back-guarantee-policy?id=4210

Not sure if this is any help but my web ferreting confirmed that it's a "Simple Vector Data Matrix Icon" but I couldn't find any claims to ownership thereof :( [Update] I've attached an (almost) orthogonal clip of the icon and I now know how to get you a T-shirt made from it if you want one

Can you try to record the noise and post it?

Try turning on the ignition then walking around the car listening for the location of the noise. Suggest you open the bonnet and boot first. BTW what year & model is your car and is it petrol or diesel?

Does the noise occur without the engine running?

Yes. Hatchback and estate seats are interchangeable for 4-door models.

You'll need input from a 1.8T member, I'm afraid. I'm good at helping find part numbers but all our cars are diesels. Perhaps @DeanVRS20VT or @mac11irl might be able to help?

Take a look HERE for N75 possibilities ... Still looking for blow-off valve sources.

You need to give your engine code as the air intakes for various engines differ. The link HERE is for the parts catalogue for a 2010 2 litre diesel (BKD,AZV,BMM). Can you locate the fasteners you need on the diagram?

The boot latch (what you described as the bottom part) is the bit with the solenoid IIRC. From distant memory it only has a single wire feed - but do check that - and if so it operates on receipt of 12v and completes the circuit to ground. If this is correct then check the ground connections first (corrosion, loose fittings) and then disconnect the latch from the harness and check for operation with a 12v line. If there are more than one connection to the latch DON'T put power to it as it is likely being monitored by the car's central control module. As regards replacement, a power-only latch should be a straight swap but a monitored latch may need coding to the car. I'd suggest asking the question on the Diagnostics and VCDS section.

I'm assuming from your description that your car is a saloon, not an estate? The parts catalogue for an MY2007 Octavia 2 saloon indicates 1Z5 827 501 D as the lock mechanism - see HERE - but it's always worth a final check with your dealer. You can also check by inspecting the lock itself, upon which there will be a part number. Before you leap into a replacement lock, however, I'd take a careful look at the electrics which operate it; it is quite likely the fault lies in or around the operating solenoid rather than in the mechanics of the lock itself. Check for dirty connections, corroded or broken wires and finally for a failed solenoid, There's also a microswitch in the door handle which may be faulty.

I have a set of VRS leather seats available. PM if of interest.

Is the drone steady or does it seem to pulse?

I didn't know that - thanks!

If you feel down the B pillar (between the front and rear doors) behind the driver's seat there should be a button at about thigh height which disables the "in cab" alarm pro tem. To use it press it once as the last thing before closing the door and locking the car. It should disable the internal sensors until the next unlock.

If you budget a bit above the cheapest - say 200 squid - and explicitly state it needs to talk with your Thrustmaster setup then I'd say that would be a good deal. N.B. Not all Windows 10 versions are created equal and have various inherent limits on networking depending on the version - hence the above caution.

Caught him in a good moment Not sure his response will help you much but here it is anyway: "On IOS? Not really. On Mac OS, yes, using Parallels or VMWare, but I'm not sure that it would actually work (i.e. you might be able to run the program, but if the calibration would work, I have no clue)"

I can't claim any IOS expertise (other than that it's a variant of Linux) but I understamnd there's a Windows emulator available. In the words of the old AA adverts "I know a man who can" so I'll drop him a line and see what he has to say. He's Stateside so could be a day or two before I get a response.

I'll be interested to follow this as it develops. It reminded me of Ewan McGregor's "Long Way Up" trip on electric Harleys - anyone managed to watch this yet? https://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/long-way-up-tv-/

Excellent article, thanks! One of my tasks at my folks' place is to make sense of ten or so "project" bikes left here by he who shall remain nameless (not my dad) ...

Looks like I was wrong about the seats being handed. From the parts catalogue for a 2006 Octy HERE the seat foam (item 40) and cover (item 50) are ambidextrous (or should that be ambi-bumstrous?) so you may well be able to do a swap. You'll have to check further if the seat base and back covers are separate but at first look I believe they are. Now I'm off to bed!

The seat mouldings are handed but I don't know if the squabs and cloths are. I'll see if I can find part numbers for the foam base tomorrow. What year is your VRS?