MarkyG82

I think reducing the charging rate will compound the issue of battery charge as it wont be able to top up. But that statement is based on my experience of the car taking the power form the battery and needing topped up. Maybe it's a generation thing as my passat is the first GTE with 10kw battery. The Superb and current passat both are on the same platform with 13kw battery. I had assumed the systems functioned the same. It's interesting that yours will take form the mains even after the charging slot has ended. There still seems to be a strange situation where your car fails to preheat if the battery drops to below 100%. On the rare occasion that I have experienced no charge or similar it is usually down to forgetting to set the timer or not inserting the cable correctly. The timer thing is rare as I usually charge every night the just leave it set. The cable thing is annoyingly more common. The locking plunger activates quite soon after the plug starts to enter the hole. If it's not fully home before the pin activates then the charge will fail. It took me ages to realise this so I sometimes replug just to be sure. It's entirely possible that preheat fails are related but I've not been able to find a pattern. The only time I can think of is when I charge as soon as I get home to make use of solar. This means I have turned off the timer via the button by the cable and it requires a replug to engage the timer.

To be honest I'd not thought of that and is a very good point. An outlier situation though. Could be more common than I give credit maybe.

@pab567 should be able to help with part numbers or even supplying the bits. As a rough guide you cannot simply swap an MIB1 screen. You'll need a glovebox unit too as that is the head unit. MIB2 screens are interchangeable (mostly) within their type. There's little point spending the money on upgrading the screen size without upgrading to MIB2. This will then allow you to get carplay/android auto too. Cost wise things may have changed but you'll need a screen, main unit and maybe a USB port. £200, £400 and £xx roughly in that order. Prices go up for bigger, better systems. You'll also need component protection removal by a dealer and also coding by someone like Pab. These cost roughly £150-200 each. Pab however, can often supply a plug and play solution so worth asking him for advice.

This is true yes. But it's mentally more straightforward to set them the same (or front/back) to ensure they are a good known value. Although the system will work with them at different values it doesn't make sense from a user point of view.

Yes it could be related to what @Rooted suggests. Have you checked the pressures are all equal? If no brake rubbing and no issues with pressures, maybe there is an issue with an ABS sensor as that is what supplies the data for TPMS (unless direct).

A few comments/questions from me: The conditioning runs for a while after the departure time so I have my time set to be about 20 mins before I actually leave. This enables the battery to catch up. On the subject of battery, when do you have the charge period set for? Mine is set to start in line with cheap rate but finish after the departure time. This opens the battery up to be fully topped up while providing the energy for the car conditioning system. It's worth noting that the car takes the power for the AC from the onboard system rather than the mains (assuming 12v via transformer from 400v). This then needs topping up. I think it's clear you have an issue with the coding that requires the 100% SOC which is odd as mine will happily drain the main battery if not plugged in.

This discussion comes up every few months when new members join. There are a large number of people out there who think an annual service covers everything a car needs.

DSG on a 1.0 is the dry clutch variant (dq200) with no official service requirements. They can be serviced but you will need to find somewhere that knows about it. If you've been told it's a 40k service by a garage, don't take it there as they clearly don't know the car.

@HappySam "I think you'd only change tyres if you live somewhere that gets a lot of snow" Winter rated tyres are not just for snow. You absolutely get the benefit in all of the UK. It's even a legal requirement in some parts of Europe. I am an advocate for the right tyres at the right time and will encourage others to use all seasons, or have a second set, if they can afford it. The need for economy targets has led to new cars coming fitted with potentially unsafe tyres.

Typo by me. Should have said MIB2 can't do wireless which you confirmed.

I stand corrected. I did suspect there was an update (hardware or software) that introduced the feature. @Dieselgate do you know if your system is MIB2 or MIB3. As far as I was aware MIB was not capable of wireless connection.

This is also only in the iV model. Non-hybrid versions have mib2 or 2.5 that only supports wired connection for either phone.

If you have auto hold enabled and apply the parking brake when stopped but still in D, the lights should go out. Then you just have to press the go pedal and it pulls away. Basically it's a button to turn the brake lights off which I use most days.

Thread resurrection update!! Three years and nearly 30k miles on the special actives I have just spent some bonus money on a set of B6 shocks. I know I said I wouldn't fit lowering springs but I've had prokit set fitted for about 2 years. Also have a pair of spring assisters on the rear. This has helped with sharpening up the turn in with the rear roll bar set to hard. Getting the shocks fitted next Thursday so will let you know how it goes. After the initial honeymoon I've not been impressed with the konis. That's with stock height or lowered. They just don't feel predictable and they are hard when I would prefer soft and blow through the travel when I'd like more support. I should have gone B6 from the start but you live and learn.

@Rooted I don't think these cars have any sort of code that a user can enter provided it is not a third part item (sony, etc). Unless that is what you are talking about? @Timcooper55 If it's a skoda system and it's working now you should have no issues with it when changing a battery. Just you clarify, a non factory (still skoda) system can be retrofitted and coded to the car by a dealer or some other clever person like PAB567.

This is common across many brands. A colleague had a minor success with vauxhall when his parents Corsa threw a cambelt. It had been serviced by the same dealer since new. They failed to inform them the belt was due at the previous service only 6 months prior. He got them to cover all costs (via warranty). A rare win in such a situation.

Yes that's right but this is the mk3 section.

There is likely a strict line much like the dsg types and engine output. All VRS and 4x4 models have independent rear end. My 2.0 TDI elegance had torsion beam. It performed very well with B6 shocks and eibach pro springs. As far as I know, all models with smaller than 2.0 engines have torsion beam. With maybe the exception of 1.8. I'm not familiar with that setup. Technically the IRS could be swapped into a torsion beam car as they share MQB body design. It's a big job though and not worth the effort. Needs some points welded on and some others cut away.

What benefit do you get for recalibrating DCC? Pretty sure people in the past have commented that the system still works when lowered with no coding changes.

No codes needed for the radio. It's all hard coded and only a dealer system can change it.

A quick play with a spreadsheet shows about 19p/m for petrol and 14p/m for diesel*. In my experience you can knock a couple of mpg off for DPF so that adds 0.5p/m. The difference is there and you can gain bring the costs down if you can raise the petrol mpg to 40 which brings it to 16.5p/m. These are all based on average fuel prices published by RAC. You may find cheaper fuel in your area. * assuming average mpg of 35 and 50. Fuel prices at 145ppl/153ppl, petrol/diesel.

Indeed. We should cover all the bases. This I didn't know. You are a font of knowledge as usual. Torque must be mega low for a 2.0 TDI.

OP asking about Octavias (Octavii?) and the 1.8 is less common especially in dsg form but yes they are about with dq200s.

2012 car would have been a mk2. The 1.6 tdi and anything petrol from 1.5 and down will be a dry clutch DSG (dq200). Anything 2.0 will be a wet clutch dsg (dq250 probably going on the age of cars you are looking at). Although the dry clutch boxes are now better than they were, I would avoid a high mileage one personally. Then you have the manual boxes. At the sort of mileage you are looking at, they may well have been abused and in need of a new clutch. But that would be the same for all cars of that age and usage. If you are after the 1.6 for economy you might be better with a 2.0 tdi. The increased torque allows you to drive at much lower revs and can often produce better MPG. They also seem to be more reliable if you get one that has had the water pump done. It's a cambelt driven unit that most have both done at the same time. 1.4 tsi is a lovely engine that I still kick myself for not getting one on my own. There is also the argument over the DPF. All the diesels will have one unless illegally removed (assuming you are UK based). At high mileage it may be ok but I wouldn't want to take one on unless it was a good deal or it had proof of being worked on (cleaning or replacement). FYI a forced regen in a garage does not constitute a clean. To be done correctly I believe it needs to be removed from the car.

So it's possibly a DQ250 requiring 40k service intervals. If that was the first service then it may well have been taken too far. If first service for DQ381 then a little early but as @Rooted suggests, that may not matter as problems can occur early. I'd be getting it to either the place that did the service or a gearbox specialist before it gets worse. At the very least start the conversation as to what the cause might be. Us lot on the internet can be knowledgeable but this sounds like an expert is needed.