MarkyG82

@Schtum as per @Rooted's comment, I dont think a DQ400 exists. The non-electrified variant is the DQ250.

@Rooted do you know what the ** is on the 400? I'm about 16k off my next service and thinking I should get the filter done. First was done at VW so under no illusion they did the filter.

The volume setting on the phone doesn't affect android auto levels. It does when on pure bluetooth so you're not completely losing it. If you have any music apps on your phone then try playing them through android auto and check the volume levels. If it's working on screen then it should be working for sound too.

As an interesting aside, MrsG's hyundai has direct TPMS and there's no reset function as far as I could tell. Just pump to the correct amount and as long as they are within a certain range* the light goes out and you carry on you merry way. * unclear if this is a fixed range or relative to the other pressures.

Not with mib2 as fitted in 2020. Mib2 screens are interchangeable.

No an 8j wheel with similar offset will not make a significant difference. I have used such wheels in the past and tyre wear and usage has been a non-issue. Insurance discussion aside, crack on.

There's no way to tell it where to get the heat from I don't think. It's also worth bearing in mind that cruising speed uses the battery faster too. 38km at a higher speed is actually not that bad. Most users of this platform will use the engine when at speed as it sips the fuel. If you are at all interested (sounds like you are) then it can be quite fun getting the most from the different power sources for different journeys.

Just to clarify something. Connecting via Bluetooth will not give you android auto (AA). You need a cable on your generation of car to get AA. If you are listening to the car audio (radio, cd, etc.) then you won't get the navigation commands from your phone to play through the car when they kick in. You will need to be on media/Bluetooth for that. Then you won't be able to listen to radio. Can we know why the reluctance to use a cable? AA really is quite good and you can listen to the cars audio sources while still having the maps in the screen. This should also then interrupt the audio with the nav instructions as you are hoping to get.

But at 3miles/kw that's 11cent per mile. Probably half the price of petrol. Then you have the fact it will probably do 100k miles before needing brakes. It's a fairly frugal platform to own. Just checking that you are looking at km and not miles? 36 sounds suspiciously like the total range for miles.

Just did a little research and it seems that modern systems have canbus controlled brake lights. That really surprises me with my limited knowledge of canbus and how they can fail. Or maybe it's so they can design in redundancy.

So if the switch was fitted to the pedal box how do the lights stay on when the pedal is released? I'm not trying to be difficult, just want to understand what we are dealing with.

Just beware of taking tyres off and refitting if that's the way you end up going. I think they can be refitted 3 times before the bead is stretched too much. Got this from more than one tyre place so either coincidence of them making money or the truth. Read into it what you want.

The cold greatly affects the battery. My GTE shows 23 miles this time of year with the heating/AC on. In the summer that is closer to 28. But I actually only get about 15 miles real use in the cold. It gets me to work and then I use dinosaurs to get me home. In the summer hols with no school run I can get to work and back. To summarise: it's the cold. Try turning off AC, heating and all other stuff and you'll get an idea of the real health of the battery.

I think the switch is somewhere else in the system. Maybe on the master/slave section or even pressure activated. If it were on the pedal it would be easy to change the coding.

It's having them off when not pressing the brake pedal so you don't blind people behind. Modern high level led lights are quite bright.

@Gabbo yes the autohold function works as you expect just without the double press malarkey. Simply come to a stop and release the pedal. If you still creep then press a bit harder. As per @Rooted comment, the brake lights will likely stay on though it's worth checking this function. Pulling the e-brake should turn them off. Then assuming you are still in D, press the go pedal and off you go with brake lights turning off if relevant.

I was under the impression that comfort mode was only on DCC equiped cars?

40mm on a vrs would be something like the eibach sportline. The vrs is already 15mm low and the sportline is 50mm drop from memory.

I think the consensus is that the B4 is as close to OEM you can get while maybe improving the quality. I read that as same performance but should last a bit longer. Like wise the B6 is an all round upgrade. Much better quality, so longer life. The design lends to a more consistent performance. The damping is slower so feels firmer. The internal gas pressure lends to the spring stiffness so has the impression of increasing the stiffness a little. That same pressure is part of the design that improves consistency as it reduces cavitation. The B4 doesn't have the same kind of design so the internal pressure isn't as great (although I believe it's greater than stock). This means that the consistency isn't like the B6. Nor is the basic design the same as the B6 so the oil volume isn't as much. Again this reduces consistency compared to the B6. TLDR: B6 is monotube. B4 is twintube. Look those designs up and you'll see the difference. B4 is thought to be slightly better performing than stock. Likewise for the quality. Not seen any proof yet.

Your mate might have a Columbus unit which should also work even if from the older mib2 system. It's the only backward compatible thing in mib world.

Not sure on part numbers but that unit in the new (to you) car is an Amundsen mib2. You should be able to fit that other screen with no coding. Straight swap. The bigger screen with buttons just down one side would need a different glovebox unit.

But then if your insurance company step in and say "you have different tyre sizes fitted!" (in a grumpy grown up voice), no amount of showing them real life measurements will convince them (maybe). It's a bit of a mess really, and just reinforces the theory of fitting the same make and model all round.

@Rooted do you think the variance is to do with the profiles being "binned" into 5% pots? A tyre that is 33% high could be placed in the same size as one with 37% for example. Both might be rounded to 35. On a 245 tyre that would be nearly 10mm difference!

Also using fuelio for a few years. Easy to switch between cars and track loads of stuff including service. And no, I'm not on their payroll 😀

The wider tyre will also weigh more. This affects acceleration/deceleration as the rotating mass is greatly increased. Additionally it will affect the suspension performance. If its comfort and safety over performance I'd go smaller and maybe narrower. It also depends how wide your wheels are.