MarkyG82

You may also need to inform insurance if going for a different tyre size to stock. Upping to 235 may fit this requirement so worth asking. A narrower wheel will hold the tyre in a way that offers more rubber to the kerb. The standard 7.5 wide rims with 225 should be a good fit without giving you much risk of rim damage. Also worth looking around at different tyres as shape and size differs between brand and model. I find Goodyear to have reasonable time protection.

I think the et (offset) is 51. That and the width won't affect the diameter. Tyre size on top of the wheel diameter is the important bits to watch. 225/40/18 is the correct size. That's 225mm wide with a diameter of 18 inch. The 40 is a percentage of the width. If you go wider then you will get a bigger diameter tyre if you stick to 40 profile. That tyre size should fit 7-8.5 wide rims. Dammit @Carlston! I can't compete with that!!

Although the questions you have are not necessarily car specific, you will probably get a better response if you post in the relevant section. I'll flag it for the mods to move.

It sounds like you have a fundamental issue with the setup and swapping to B6 might not fix it. Although they are amazing shocks. Have you looked at the front suspension yourself or simply gone on what the dealer said about the transport blocks? Wouldn't be the first time they've been missed. Maybe also check that the rear roll bar is fitted and correctly. Did you do the bounce test on each corner as suggested by @SurreyJohn?

Sorry there was no mention of wireless android auto. As above, no mk3 cars (apart from maybe the hybrid superb) have wireless mirror link.

Silly questions first. Do you have a system that supports it and is activated? After that it's often the cable that causes any issues, followed by fluff in the port on the phone. Also make sure your phone is fully updated.

You need hubcentric spacers as they will have the recess and flange to receive and offer the little lip to interface with the hub and wheel. Do a search on here for them as there are link in an older thread for quality items from ebay. Yes they can be a pain to line up. I have a little ali rod (from amazon) that has the same bolt thread that fit into one of the holes. It's 4-6 inches long and means you can line everything up, chuck a couple of bolts in the other hols then take the rod out to use for a bolt. Makes life a lot easier. It live in my car for the emergency situations. Do a search for "wheel alignment tool" and select the right thread. I cant remember if it's 14x 1.25 or 1.5. The extended bolts make no real difference with how easy they are to fit. In this instance a bolt's a bolt. Just make sure it's long enough and the right thread and head shape.

Sold 2 cars via motorway. First got the original offer price as it was my dads CRV that was basically spotless. Second was MrsGs mazda 2 that was worth not a lot and knocked down further (less than 10%) when they saw the bodywork. Both processes were painless and would happily do it again if required. Certainly better than my limited experience with WBAC and the endless emails. Still get the odd email form them for my mk2 octavia that I sold in 2017 to a trader.

Says in the first post that it's not DCC.

Services and pressure tests are not going to fix it. In the immortal words of @toot you need someone with more than an idea. You are using water and oil at a high rate. You need to find out where they are going. They could be mixing in a part that is not good and getting on for writing the engine off. Is the exhaust smokey? If so what colour? Blue leans to burning oil. White is water. Have a look at the underside of the oil filler cap. Is it milky? Did any of the oil changes show anything in the oil?

Can you describe the sound? Is it low pitch or higher. What area of the car is it coming from. Can you feel anything at the time. Are the windows open. If it's a low pitch thrumming noise with the windows open as you pass through 80+ then it's a "feature". Try it with the windows closed. It's an aerodynamic issue. Otherwise we still need more info to help pin down a possible problem. Definitely doesn't sound like a wheel bearing.

For the benefit of those who are not technical: The mention of phase above is due to the cambelt being the part that times the engine. If phase is out, the camshaft timing will be off and the engine run rough, hard to start, not run at all, etc.

@Tonies I stand by my initial diagnosis (apparently others do also). Everything you describe is consistent with how the car would feel and drive with the blocks left in. I'd take it to a different garage for a second opinion. Even if it costs. Then maybe take that evidence (assuming we are right) to the original dealer for their comments.

Have you checked the transport blocks have been removed. They fill in some of the from suspension to reduce the body movement in transport. Some dealers forget to remove them. They are usually in the front which would explain why the car feels floaty round corners as the rear is softer (not preferable in a front drive car). Would also explain why you feel small bumps as the front will be too stiff.

Brakes would be the issue with wheels assuming the offset is correct. Second the suggestion for B6 shocks. They are leaps and bounds better than stock.

Can't help with whether a screen change will help fix the issue. I do know that the screen does not need any coding. They are quite easy to change. Should be standard mib keys and it just pops out. Then just the cables to unplug. Maybe find a friend with the same system and swap the screen out so you don't spend on a new screen unnecessarily?

What he said. If you want to go for a slightly muted version I'd go for B6 shocks and the rear bar. Should give you 80% of what @UndertheRadar achieved.

Can you confirm what car you have? Mention a superb in the first post and an Octavia in last. Also this is the Octavia section. Have you fitted Octavia parts to a superb? Not entirely out of the question that they will fit both cars.

@Gabbo Read again. OP states it was changed at their "local car accesory shop". That's far from a battery specialist. I did a google search for the type of battery the OP said was installed and the results are vague at best. Most accurate result was an EFB battery. If the original was AGM then coding is absolutely required.

@Gabbo although you are technically correct that no coding is needed if the same spec battery is installed, cranking amps and capacity is very likely to be different between manufacturers so coding in is advisable. It will also take some time (does anyone know how long?) for the car to recognise a new unit has been installed so initially it will still think the old duff unit is present and so charging appropriately. I'm fairly certain this period is nil if coded in. @Toonbartcan you share the symptoms that lead to the battery change and also the response of the car when it doesn't start? Sounds to me that there is an underlying issues that a new battery might be used to mask. The starter on my old octavia was very dirty and pulling lots of current to get it to start the car. One garage said it needed a new battery, but, cleaning of the starter solved 80% of the issues for much less expense.

The Passat get (of the same age at least) had fewer issues as the system is the tried and tested mib2. Skoda chose to "upgrade" to mib3 for their hybrid car which seems to have been plagued with issues. Most of which have been solved with a new unit. Sounds like you have had a hard time with the car which I'm sorry to hear. Makes me feel like I made the right decision not to get the newer Skoda and stick with a used Passat version 2½yrs ago.

The wheel will physically fit. The tyre will be too small in diameter and I would get it swapped for a 205/65/16 on that wheel. Just check it will fit in the wheel well.

I would fit one or the other first (if you can). If you fit springs/shocks and rear bar at the same time you won't know what has the desired effect. I'd go for the rear bar first as that should have the greater effect on the roll control. Then go shocks if it's still an issue. If you can afford to put it in a third time, maybe fit B6 shocks on stock springs before going for lowering springs. I'd predict that B6 shocks at stock height with a stiffer rear bar will give you 85% of what you want.

I think it's a location thing. Roads or speed bumps matched with your choice of speed (doesn't have to be fast) are activating the failure mode. Pure coincidence and I'm sure you'd be even more grumpy were you not able to change the parts yourself. My suggestion would be to change tyre pressure and/or fit different tyres. Maybe drop to 17s?

Where/how do you drive that means you are going through bearing at that rate? I realise I am tempting fate now but I haven't changed a wheel bearing in 15 years.