jordy_wd

Hi mate, see here:

Yes I’ll PM you.

Yes mate. Sorry for getting back so late.

Looks great. Would you have before and after photos of the tyre size change?

@Gizmo Could you add me to the list? I’ve HEX-V2 and based in Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland.

Hi. Mine is a 2014 with the same mileage. I bought at 32k miles and have had it for 5 years now. The only issues I've had have been: - Front wishbone bushes creaking when going over bumps - Rear shocks knocking (sounds like logs rolling about in the boot) - Front main seal leak which showed as a pool of oil in the under tray - Droplinks knocking at front of car. I've went through FOUR sets in about 50k miles! - DPF pressure sensor burned out (literally!) All the above are fairly minor and were easily sorted. If I were buying a second-hand one now, one thing I would be checking would be the condition of wheels as wheel refurbs are probably around £500 now for the diamond cut ones on the VRS. Also generally stone chips and marks around the car too. Could maybe factor this in for some money off?

Drop links is more like a dull rattle in my experience. My 2014 VRS TDI is onto it's third set after 86k miles. I experienced creaking from the front suspension over ramps and found this to be the bushings on the front control arm. I got mine from PSBushings and they've been fantastic. All noises gone!

Did a recent 150-mile motorway trip with a small trailer on the back. Just a steel-frame 8' x 4' trailer with plywood floor and siding so not sure how much it weighs - maybe 400/500kg? Only had a small load in it and I got about 38mpg in my 2014 Octavia VRS TDI. It has a remap to approx 220bhp too.

My car was remapped at 10k miles by JBS Auto Designs in Sheffield. I bought it at 32k and it now has 78k on it with no issues. Pulls like a train and no clutch/DMF issues.

I don't have any photos of the installation unfortunately. Basically you just remove the control arms, press the old bushings out, and then press the new ones in, and re-install the control arms. I would recommend removing the control arms and taking them to a local mechanic/workshop with a press to take them out. You will need a bench vice or press to put the new ones in. It may be easier to get the mechanic/workshop to do both steps. This ECS guide is for replacing the entire control arm assembly but gives you a good idea: https://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/PDF_20122_VW_MK7_Golf_Performance_Control_Arm_Kit_Install.pdf This is the bushing kit from PSB: https://psbushings.co.uk/product/skoda-octavia-mk3-complete-front-wishbone-polyurethane-psb-bush-kit-2013-to-2017/ Take this opportunity to replace both bushings on the front control arm. I replaced one, hoping it would cure the creak, but then had to replace the other also. Should've done both at the same time. You'll also need an alignment after.

I lived with creaky suspension for a few years on my VRS then finally tackled it. I replaced the two bushings on the front control arms with bushing from PS Bushings: https://psbushings.co.uk/ Do it ASAP!

I took mine to a local wheel refurbishing place. Done in satin black for £40. Had them on for over 3 years now with no chips, corrosion etc.

Hi mate. What reversing camera did you order? Do you have a link? Thanks.

I think these are correct: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-VW-Seat-Skoda-2x-Deckblech-Bremsscheibe-hinten-3Q0615611B-Spritzschutz-L-R/174327655329

If they did a 300hp 4WD version like the Golf R, I think it would be the best car in VAGs lineup.

Surely that's a completely different engine to a EA288 TDI?

As far as I know, the issue was rectified in early 2016. I can't be sure of that though, and I can't recall where I read that.

I fitted a towbar and electrics to my 2014 VRS estate recently for a grand total £110. Got the towbar used from a breaker for £75 and managed to get genuine VW/Skoda wiring loom and trailer module for £35 on eBay. Used a combination of the following guides: PDF found here: https://www.westfalia-automotive.com/fileadmin/pdf/e_anlagen/305/e305408391101.pdf EDIT: Also needs coded with VCDS but plenty of people on here to help with that.

Okay so after a few days with the revised fuel pump module I still had the long crank.. So it's been returned and I will probably just leave it as changing the VVT adjuster seems more hassle than it's worth.

The DPF pressure sensor seems to be a common issue. See here:

Thats a good point. The revised module is due to arrive tomorrow so I'll see how it goes. My long starts are quite infrequent (probably 1 in every 50 starts) so it may take a few months to see if it has worked or not.

Okay so I've taken a look at my fuel pump control module and it is revision letter F, dated 12/07/2014. I've ordered one from a 2016 Passat with part no. 5Q0906121M and a date of 29/01/2016. I've attached instructions below for removing rear seat bench and module:

Could the software issue lie within the fuel pump control module though? I'm no expert by any stretch, but could the ECU be calling for the fuel pump via the module and an error in the module means a lack of fuel for a split second? Also - the part is onto revision N. Would that mean there have been issues with in leading to the VW group revising it so many time?

There is a discussion on this on the TDICLUB forums: https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=481340 This video on youtube shows it could be a problem with the camshaft adjuster for the variable valve timing. Revised part numbers are: 03L 109 096B - body with the solenoid valve 03L 906 455C - bolt/valve assembly From reading that thread though, there could be a number of issues: 1. battery 2. lift pump 3. VVT adjuster From the TDICLUB thread it seems the most likely cause is the in-tank lift pump. EDIT: In this thread regarding a MK7 GTD, it was the lift pump CONTROL UNIT that caused the issue: http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/175756-2014-GTD-Cold-Starting-Issue?p=1096231#post1096231 Part number is 5Q0906121. Most recent one from 2016/2017 seems to be 5Q0906121N It also appears to be easily replaced. This for a TSI petrol but the diesel one will be similar:

The front ones will require a press, but the read ones can be easily cut out with a hacksaw/sawzall. The rubber can be cut out leaving the thin metal casing. This can be deformed with a hammer and a punch, then knocked out too. The bushes are easily pressed in using a vice and some very large sockets. I re-used the bolts and nuts. All the guides say they are stretch bolts, but they seem to re-torque fine.