RADIOTWO

The reason for the auto lock is its a anti hijack facility, so if you were to pull up at a junction or lights then no one can steal out of the boot or even get into the car and nick it . and as far as getting in in the case of a accident then you can still open from inside or if the services need to get in they would get in very easy. And if you had not noticed when you unlock the car it only unlocks the drivers door (although I think you can change that)

Hi Folks I have this Skoda Connect App and I find it quite informative but I see the subscription is up for renewal ( I bought the car second hand so I have not been involved in the payment side). I have tried to contact Skoda to ask some question but don't seem to get any answers. There is about three sections, Data Plan Care connect Remote Access, Infotainment online and Smart Apps Bundle. I think I get the first three, but is Data plan something I need ? The next two I will buy but its more the Smart Apps one that is a puzzle what does it do and I have seen it it for £4.50 for the year, is that the correct price? I also notice the word “ Traffication” what is this ? Is there any one who has these and can give me some explanation ? Thanks

Surely not ,a VRS 2.0lt with 13" wheels

Don't knock it till you try it, but watch the video clip first to get the whole procedure

I don't see why you think it is a myth ! as I said I did it on my car a few years ago and it worked, but you say about moving it, you don't need to move it, in fact you don't need to even start it, but once it has been reset and you do drive it will start to learn your driving ways

There is a way of doing a reset on the DSG without VCDS or ODB11, Cannot remember exactly how, but something like turn on Ign, hold accelerator down for something like 30secs, and then not sure but do a search on Youtube and should explain, I did it once on a Seat Leon and made a difference

Just go to the dealers and get them to change them under warranty

It is very difficult these days as you used to just start the engine and if you got 14.5(ish) you knew it was ok, but now when you see the voltages they go up and down, and I think you need to get a Multimeter to check things out like current draw when the car is turned off and what would help is do a drop test on the battery its self. and just as a matter of interest my voltage after it has been stud for a few hrs is 12.46 volts

Hi, Without having the final reading its hard to say but 11.8 volt is not good, it should be at least 12.5 volts, so you have a problem with a short or the battery is faulty, try and get the battery tested (admitting needs to be fully charged) and if found faulty go back to the dealer and get them to change it under warranty

Hi you say is 11.8 v and you recharge till full, but is that 11.8 before you put on charge and what is the voltage at "Full" ?

Are there is some interest ! Before you plug the trailer into the car, turn the hazards on then plug in and look at the trailer lights and tell me what you see

Hi Andy, I was not doubting your installation, but wondered if you knew about the self test hack ?

How do you check the rear lights on the caravan ?

Hi Dave I think I have the same issue, but I have noticed that it only does it every so often, and cannot find what causes it (or not) so I will follow this thread

I am sorry if you think I am patronising and condescending but when you say about can-bus and you want to connect to it, then you say about connecting something to 24 volts, and you now say you are experienced in all the things you say, I start to worry ! I have seen so many times what happens when connected to can bus, and seeing you are a newby to the site I was only trying to help. I have just had one fitted and have also got the latest firmware and there is not a problem, but even the dealers would not know it has been retro fitted as it was done professionally, Anyway you do what you want and hope it all goes well Steve

You say it needs 24 Volts where are you going to get that from ? From what you have said I don't think you are confident with car electrics so what I would do is find a good Auto electrician and get them to do it, I know it will cost but would be a lot less than the damage that can be done if you get it wrong

First off don't go connecting to the original wiring, as you can do some damage most of the wiring is Can-bus so if you connect to the wrong place you can wipe out the canbus system. I have just had one fitted on mine but it was done professionally and it was coded to the car and no holes drilled if fits where the boot release button is, and it even has a washer jet so when you use the rear jets it cleans the camera. and to be honest you say about the car being leased just leave it on as no one will know if it was on or not when you got it

Yes the standard size is 50mm but in the old days (I am showing my age) they used to be 2inch but I guess it is the newer Sorry just noticed you are in Norway, but guess it is still the same size

Daft question: I assume you the ign on when trying it ?

are you using a adaptor ? when I first got my car I did not have a lead with a Type "C" on one end and a mini USB so I used a Type "C" to standard USB socket, and then plugged in the correct cable and would not work. So I ordered a Type "C" to mini USB (a short one) and when I got it I plugged it in and its been fine since

Hi Toot, I don't think they do the two but to be honest I usually I go for the cheapest fuel be either Petrol or Diesel, I have tried in the past on different vehicles and I have found no difference with performance or economy so I now go for the cheapest

Apparently it is comparable with the shell or Bp's Premium, I have used it but not noticed any difference, but it used to be cheap but our local asda is slightly cheaper

I am not positive but I guess its because you are opening it remotely, so if someone is walking passed they are warned it is opening, where as it you open it while you are there there does not need to be a warning !

let me know when you want to have a go with it