Awesam

Can you share which you have or guide how to build one?

So do you just plug that module in and that's it or do you need to get some coding done?

Zacko, how did you get the bottom 2 buttons on the right side of the steering wheel to work?

I've just retrofitted one and i didnt need any of the canbus adapters! I had bought 2 different ones just incase! So mines had a MFSW from factory and i just took off the old one and installed the new one with airbag and it works.

I did say earlier it was slow! 🤣

Mostly likely its going to be the camshaft magnets, fairly easier to change and not that expensive. They are known to start failing after a few years. Workst case, Depending on mileage (usually around100,000+ miles) it could need a exhaust camshaft replaced.

The engine failed on that and is currently getting rebuilt.

😆 build one to your own spec!

Neither has this one!

@JR RS How could you forget about me!! 💔 That edition is a bit slow! 🤪

Sportline is defintely lower as I have a L&K and my friend has the Sportline Superb. Mines sat higher than his before I upgraded to coilovers. Probably be cheaper if you bought Bilstein's B6 Shocks and Eibach springs than buying new Sportline suspension. I have DCC aswell and used John's guide to recalibrate the coilovers which made a such a difference to the ride.

Your milltek dp will help reduce the noise without the resonator otherwise it would insane! I've a custom exhaust which consist of 3.5" decat dp through a 3" mid with 2 resonators and then down to 2.5" at the Y split into custom backboxes. I can say that with the valves closed is alot louder and with the valves open it's loud at low rpm!

In my opinion the best turbo to go for on the MQB platform if you don't want to go for stupid power then is the Turbo Technics V4, spool is near stock and power delivery is great. Followed by the Littco L380.

yeah most likely the cam magnets or the oil spool valve if it sounds like a diesel

It's either the cam magnet or the oil control valve - very simple fixes tbh. and the parts aren't too expensive. Does it sound like a diesel rather than a sewing machine yet?

So based on other MQB cars with the EA888.3 engine running between 280 - 300 bhp, once they hit around 100k its best to change the chain however it all depends on how much its been pushed/abused! Most likely the cam magnets or the oil control valve will start to fail and cause it to rough idle. In the worst case, the cams may have to be changed. From the dealer its about £700 - 800 per cam however you can get a ones from OEM supplier for £250 - I've seen it one, its OEM with the VAG Logo machined off!

I know its a slippery slope as I've learnt from my MK3 Superb. I would love to modify a MK2 VRS to AWD and add in a RS3 engine.

RTMG are probably the most experienced with running meth with this ecu

I had the rear calipers off a Porsche, I'll try to find which ones they were. Has the meth been mapped in? I would expecting to hit more than 365bhp with it as I was running 360bhp without.

I had one a few years ago, it had K04 conversion, manual. It was so much fun to drive, had a quaife LSD to help put the power down. I was considering a RS3 engine swap before I decided to sell it and buy a MK3 Superb.

Anyone in the UK offering this mod yet?

Do you need to get it coded/ any VCDS adjustments to make it work?

I had TVS stage 3 and works well with the DQ250, the smoothest TCU tune I've experienced as now I'm running a custom tuner software which is very good however I would the TVS was slightly better.

Finally got round to do this on my B16 DCCs and it has a made a difference!

I managed to have a chat with the current owner last year via Facebook but then went silent. So I gather he wants to keep a low key.