wokwon

Roll all your windows up and down, holding the up or down button for 2 seconds when the window reaches the top or bottom. I.e. for each window: - Start from closed - Hold down button until window is fully open and continue to hold for 2 seconds - Lift button and keep button lifted until window has been fully closed for 2 seconds. - Repeat for all the other windows. There is a reason but it's not very interesting.

A bit offbeat, but has anyone tried the old style seat-to-key assignment now that the new fangled one that does radio stations too etc is not available to you? I have a 3T Superb II (circa 2013) and to save a seat pos (and mirror position) to the key: - Drivers door open - Arrange seat and mirrors to desired position - Pres SET on seat - Hold down memory slot button (1, 2 or 3) until bong! Release button - Then press unlock button on the key fob remote. All 4 turn signals flash (3 times I think?) and then it's saved.

I retrofitted the direct one to my MY18 Kodiaq. I don't think it was worth the effort in the end. It was made worse by me purchasing Chinese aftermarket tyre sensors instead of OEM Huf units and I've had to replace 3 out of the 4 so far. They fail and read zero PSI, so I'd be driving along and then loud beep, flashing tyre display and a big fat zero. If it was a factory option for a reasonable price, I'd go for it but wouldn't do the retrofit again, I'd just buy one of those Steelmate Korean valve stem thingies that I have in the old Superb which has been faultless since 2013, other than battery changes.

The wiring loom to the door is notorious for breaking after the door opens and closes a lot. Have a look in the rubber loom cover thingy and see if you can see any broken wires. Some people have managed to fix it in situ without replacing the whole loom.

It doesn't have a picture for this unfortunately and just says "unhook". I seem to recall there was a tang that could be pushed aside to let it open fully, the same tang that stopped it opening all the way. I may be confusing this with the newer car I have though.

Ugh, sorry, didn't read that you're looking to remove the interior trim, see this one. Just looks like 4 screws hold it in. Don't think you'd need to remove the steering column trim panels. That thing in your picture is actually a knee airbag, so disconnect the battery before you begin work.

Hope this helps. Removing the whole master cylinder sounds like a lot of malarkey just to change a switch. Hope someone who's actually done it can chime in to advise.

Sorry, documentation isn't really clear but hopefully it helps (this is for Wagon/Combi)

Random spray of pictures, hopefully someone can chime in and say which of these pictures contains it... Assuming that's the CFGB engine, the control solenoid is the arrow in part II of the diagram below. Could the sensor be part of the valve? Perhaps someone can point out which bit it is in this diagram. I'm guessing it's the grey thingo with the plug above the snail but I don't actually know... Then this one talks about position sender (2):

Solar panel behind automotive glass will have much lower output, anecdotally by as much as 40% through clear glass. Your window might be tinted too, further reducing it.

Sorry I just read it again and realised how incoherent it is. Please ask questions if you need clarification. I'm not a professional but I have been meaning to get around to adding a 2nd battery to run the drive camera when engine off. The power requirements are much less than a fridge so the charging time is much lower then your solution.

Yes you could do this. Preference is to use a current limited supply like a lab supply to drive the motors as you'll be driving them without the benefit of the position feedback so you might hit an end. If that happened current would go really high and you risk some damage. Using a power supply limited to say 5 amps would minimise this.

Not commenting on your choice of power supply, however: It might work by: 1) Convert your boot socket to switched output (easy, just needs a piggyback fuse) 2) Switched boot socket now charges the power bank thingo 3) Power bank thingo supplies power to the fridge 4) Fridge uses built in low voltage cutout to protect power bank thingo 4a) Power bank thingo has a BMS so it probably already has battery protection in it. Lithium cells hate being over discharged. That would probably mean you don't need the battery guard thingo. Problems I foresee: 1) does the power bank thingo need a button pressed or something like that to turn on its output? If so, you'll need to press that to start the fridge each time which would be annoying 2) Charging time 4.8 hours or more. - Power bank thingo does the disingenuous marketing thing of claiming watt-hours of capacity instead of amp hours. It says 720Wh. Assuming a 4S battery, average cell voltage of 3.2V = 12.8V. 720Wh / 12.8V = 56.2 Amp hours. Take off 20% (you shouldn't discharge LiFePo4 below 20%) and another 10% for losses (DC-DC, cabling, connections) leaves us with 39.3Ah (round to 40Ah). - Lets say your fridge has exhausted the power bank and it's turned off. We need to replace 40Ah of power. Charging losses are around 10-20% (it's a chemical process, not 100% efficient) so we actually need to put in 48Ah. - Spec sheet claims car charge input is 10A. That's also the limit of the cigarette lighter socket in the boot, although I've seen the wiring, it's flimsy so I'd expect a large voltage drop at 10A. We'll ignore that for now. - At 10A, putting that 48Ah back into the battery will take 4.8 hours. So the engine would need to be running 4.8 hours to charge the power bank thingo back up. - LiFePo4 charges to 80% quickly but then slows down, it's just the chemistry. So the 4.8 hours would actually be longer. How much longer depends on the BMS in the power bank thingo. 3) Runtime - Not sure of the size of the fridge, but they pretty much all use Danfoss BD35 or BD55 or copies of the same. Around 4 amps when cooling. Depending on ambient, lets say duty cycle of 50% (assuming box contents are already down to temp and we're just maintaining temp and it's not hot outside). That means 2Ah. Your 40Ah battery should in theory run that for 20 hours before shutting off, but in practice it will be less, maybe 15 hours due to things like voltage drops in cabling and connectors, voltage sags when then compressor starts (even with a soft starter) and things like that. Higher temp (e.g. car in sun), lack of ventilation, box contents not already cold will drastically reduce that time. If you're happy with the above constraints, then it should work. A true dual battery solution with an isolator would be better, although fitting it into the Skodiaq and running the heavy cables needed for a rapid charge would be a bit of stuffing around. Other random brain dumps: - Using a starter battery to run a fridge is not great. These battery constructions are designed to deliver a large load for a short time (start a car) and then idle the rest of the time. Even the modern Lead Acid Calcium ones are like this, although they're more tolerant of a deeper discharge. Your choice of a LiFePO4 for the fridge battery is much better, but the awkward implementation makes it difficult. - If you do progress to a true 2nd battery, make sure it taps off the starter battery negative on the car side of the hall effect sensor. Basically there is a current sensor near the negative battery post that measures current in and out of the battery. If you discharge the battery directly from the posts, the sensor doesn't see it. The car uses this sensor for start-stop maintenance and emission control etc and if the sensor doesn't see the current, the system can go way our of whack and need a recalibration. There is a ground point on the firewall, right next to the battery that is on the car side of the hall effect sensor, you can tap there. To answer your actual question if you choose to use the battery guard thingo so it's all plug and play: Make up a lead, two spade connectors to a ciggy lighter socket. That goes from the battery guard "load" connection if you choose to use it to the power pack thingo. Make up a lead, two spade connectors to a ciggy lighter plug. That goes from the socket in the boot of the car to the battery guard "battery" connection. Set the switch off voltage at something like 12.2 volts. That would mean the switch on voltage would be 13.0 volts. your car will run at 14.4 volts (peaking to 15 on regen) until the car feels its starter battery is charged and then turn down to about 12.8 so your battery guard will stay on at that point. If you stop the engine, or the start-stop does so the starter battery will quickly drop to about 11.8v and the battery guard will cut out.

I really miss the paddles from my superb. Steering wheels with paddles are easy enough to get and install, but 450-ish euros when converted to Australian Pesos makes it just too expensive, so I'll persist with waggling the stick.

Yes VCDS for me (MY19), and your assumption might be correct. Disappointing if that is the case. Hopefully the very smart people at Ross Tech figure out a way around it soon.

It actually causes an additional occasional problem with mine. Some time (30 mins + ) after startup, but not every time, I get a 'bong' and something similar to "lane assist not available" or something, accompanied with the amber triangle-exclamation warning. It seems to me that the system notices the error state of the camera for TSR (i.e. missing map data), and some time after that a watchdog resets the entire camera module. The module then reboots and starts working again (within about 15 seconds). 2 mins after that I get the warning about TSR deprecated same as with an engine start. I then have to go into driver assist in the virtual cockpit and toggle the lane assist on, off and on again. If I don't toggle it twice, it defaults back to off at next start. I turned the settings back to the original (without TSR, MDI uses maps for speed limit signs) and that extra problem went away. It might be unique to my car, my previous Kodiaq had the same settings for TSR and didn't have this extra problem. I'd appreciate if you can share your settings so I can compare as there are a few different sets of config for TSR floating about.

Same for me in AU, maps not homologated for this feature here so when I enabled TSR on my car I get this warning 2 mins after starting the car. In practice it does not affect the operation, other than: - The message is logged in the module - Signs are not necessarily recognised in their true intent (e.g. we have some 'school zones' that operate part time but the TSR just reads the sign but not the time periods and assumes the lower limit is always in operation)

I have had water in that spot from pressure washing the tailgate area, but never from just sitting in the rain. I just assumed that I had gone in too close with the sprayer. I can't really offer any other commentary but will watch with interest.

My experience with ECU software flash / tunes (not an inline box but an actual software change) is that the fuel economy for the diesels gets much better but the petrols not so much. This is possibly related to the reduction of EGR that most tunes perform which in your region might cause you to fail MOTs (we don't have them where I live). I did get my CZPA petrol tuned and the economy did get better but not by as much as a diesel engine tune. It might be related to the ability to stay in a higher gear for more time but can't really say. It might also be related to the engine loosening up (I tuned at 15,000km and am now at 21,000). Sometimes it's hard to pin it down as it varies so much by driving style and environmental factors.

Hi MjWalsh, I suspect it's one part with the door card (or one part number at least e.g. door card, rear, black, w/blind). I'm not sure the blind module is available separately as a spare part. Hopefully someone with more knowledge chimes in soon. In the mean time here is a picture of the door card, the blind roller thingo seems to be heat-staked in. There does appear to be a sticker with a part number attached to the roller blind bit, bit I can't read it in the photo (sorry). If you wanna take it off it's really easy. See below. Be gentle to avoid breaking the clips. The one marked "4" in the picture (the grab handle) I have never been able to remove without deforming the plastic bits in side.

Could be a few things. I understand that some combinations of tow require an improved cooling system (that's the factory tow prep bit). In theory that wouldn't stop the tow kit from being installed, just that it's not 100% kosher. It could also be that in your market they don't have regulatory approval for the combination of drive-train and tow kit. Some markets require crash tests, fuel economy tests or other homologation type things that if the manufacturer doesn't bother to get approval for with that particular combination, manufacturer is hesitant or unable to offer (low appetite for risk). I don't know where you are and don't know your market, but an aftermarket kit is possible. As to its effect on the warranty, that depends on your local regulations. Here in 'straya they can't just void a whole warranty because a part was installed, instead they'd have to demonstrate that it was the installation that caused the fault that was claimed under warranty. It requires arguments and legal threats but the manuf will often settle after that. Your region might vary. If you update your profile to include your country and region, someone local might be able to offer a more accurate insight.

Funnily enough I captured the mysterious static cornering light in action the other day, the video below shows it and the cornering fog too. The static cornering lamp was coming on and off even at 60-ish km/hr. Youtube video showing static cornering lamp and cornering fog

I have had the volume go whacky in my MIB2, a restart of the unit fixed it (hold in the power button until it reboots). Maybe same thing in yours. Symptom was volume was really slow to react to input, ended up muted and couldn't turn it back up.

There didn't seem to be an output test to turn it on via VCDS last time I looked. Maybe in a newer version....

Yep, I initially suspected that it didn't exist but I have seen it come on over (probably) 15km/hr. Unlike the cornering fogs, it fades on and off. As I slowed at the corner it seemed to transition from the static cornering light to turning the fog on.