Urrell

I think another ABS sensor or reluctor ring could be the cause with stabilisation, ABS and tyre pressure lights.

If airbag is enabled the "ON" light in orange lights up under the hazard light switch on every start for 65 seconds and if disabled lights up "OFF" in orange for all the time the engine is running.

That type of compressor has no clutch, it rotates all the time with the swash plate angle acting on the pistons to give the flow required through the compressor.

Does it still make that noise if the oil filler cap is removed?

Try removing the battery lead for a minute to force it to reboot. There will be a few lights up on the dash that will disappear after driving a couple of hundred yards and you'll need to reset the clock.

I thought even on the left hand drive cars the fuse box was on the drivers side.

Doors rusting from inside I take is someone noting that the doors are not sealed against rain running down the windows but Skoda's and I suspect all VAG cars are designed like that and have been for at least 18 years that I have owned them and have not heard of one rusting from the inside of the doors. Yes may be unlucky with the sunroof but it does make it very light inside, instead of spending thousands to get it replaced or or repaired I would disconnect the sliding glass motor with it shut and tape up the join around the glass to body with clear helicopter tape. Would still have the glass roof with a motorised sliding shade.

4x4 will make a difference but the biggest difference will be the shape of the Yeti, aerodynamic as a brick, but I would not have it any other way for the convenience.

If I may ask who has given you more help here than me? One more to sort my confusion, have the rear windows ever opened and closed on the fob or had one touch operation from the drivers door switch?

Why say that AGAIN ? Your last two comments here say, ""As far as I'm aware it's not available on the rears. "" and ""It was all working perfectly before the flat battery incident"" I do believe we are being taken for a ride.

Only one more thing I can think of preventing resetting the rear windows, have you got the "child safety switch" pressed on the drivers door to disable the rear windows? Edit: Forget that as the reset is done from the drivers door switches and the "child safety switch" does not disable that one.

Was that not a clue that they have lost the one touch function?

If one touch is not available on the rear windows it's because they both need resetting! Close window, release switch then hold it up again for about 5 seconds.

I cannot see that working. Find what windows have lose the one touch operation and individually close them, release the switch, then hold the switch up again for about 5 seconds.

That's why I said disconnect the battery for a minute, some have a fuse in the drivers A post fuse box and another in the engine compartment.

Easiest is disconnect the battery for a minute to reboot it. You will have to reset the clock and will lose the number 1 short trip mileage, then may have several warning lights on the dash, they will clear after driving about 100 meters.

No, it has to be in the first month that comes with the adapter or if more time is paid for, it will look for fault codes but no resets.

If you knew about regens you would know that oil temperature goes above 100 degrees and the tickover goes from about 850 rpm to about 1000 rpm with a very gruff engine note. How about saving yourself and everybody else time and doing as JR sugests """Stop wasting your time with a generic code reader, get someone on here to do a VCDS scan or find a garage with a Snap On or similar multi-marque dealer level tester to find the code of what is actually going wrong. """

Did it do a regen? I find that it's nearly impossible to get it to do one when you want to? Do you know when it's doing a regen?

Skoda fit Westfalia.

Was the tow-bar and electrics fitted when car was built or later?

Was the tow-bar and electrics fitted when car was built or later?

Is that image with it plugged into mains? Strange it has an AMPS reading. Edit: To save going round in circles I know that was plugged in, that is the charging voltage that will say very little about the state of the battery. It has to be in the morning after standing all night with NO CHARGE to give a voltage that pertains to battery health. On a volt meter NOT on a charger.

I soaked my first in release fluid but it came out so easy I did not bother with the next 3 and they came out with no problem. They are very deep and need a socket with rubber insert that grabs them. If not sure about using too much pressure to get them out use a torque wrench.

I take it the charger was not on overnight, but if not I cannot believe even a new battery would hold 12.8 volts after standing overnight without a charge.