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VW 504 00 / 507 00 is the correct spec for your Euro 5 1.4 TSI for Fixed or Variable Service Interval Oil & Filter changes, and VW 502 00 for Fixed if you want. If you want to use the wrong oil then that is purely your own choice.

It did. That is a fact. Only way they got the WLTP Certification on the models and the RDE2 figures. Go to VW507 00 at the next oil change if you want, or just do whatever now and top up with 5w 30 FS III or better 0w 30 FS III. Ask a Master Tech at a Dealership, ask a Call Handler at Skoda UK to check with Skoda CZ. Ask them to reply in writing. Do not ask someone that has not a clue though.

Anyone can recommend what they like and 5w 30 FS III will not kill your engine or your DPF. But VW Group / Skoda are your Warranty Under writer and they Recommended and still do 0w 20 FS IV. They will not void your warranty if you use 5w 30 FS or 0w 30 FS to VW507 00, and there have been dealerships using exactly that. It is not what the Manufacturer Recommended though. But then they were after the WLTP / RDE figures needed and still are.

I watched it and some was relevant and some was just WTF as far as i was concerned. The charger number / statistics were good, the Co-founder of ZapMap should know her stuff. Sadly ZapMap are very poor at updating Charge Place Scotland cost to charge, new chargers etc, but when i email them they say it is because CPS / SWARCO are not sharing Info. Somehow not sure if the figures on UK chargers and statistics actually included Scotland but i suspect not.

@gregthepirate Your 2020 TDI left the factory with VW508 00 / 509 00 which is 0w 20 Full Synthetic IV and set to Variable / Flexible servicing. If it has the original oil in and you are just topping up then that is the correct oil. to VW 509 00. From 2018/19 on TSI VW508 00 TDI VW508 00 So VW508 00 / 509 00. You might well use VW507 00 which was the spec pre WLTP, and maybe use after the next oil and filter change but i would not be putting that in now and mixing the Oil spec. (VW504 00 / 507 00) The Oil level needs to be known when cold so you can check before setting off. Checking and topping up should be done with the Engine Oil at Normal Operating temp, checked on the flat a few minutes after the engine is stopped. So not , Cold or Warm if the Owners Manual says Warm, it is At Operating Temperature, or Hot. That is an indicated 80*oC or above, normal operating temp being 90*oC ish. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/463383-oil-level-on-brand-new-superb

Below freezing this morning and it was lovely with the EV to just defrost while heating the cars battery and interior before setting off that cost a few pence in electric at home, heated seat and steering wheel on, then top up the battery free while shopping. US Gallons.

@Karock What are they Alpin 5 or 6? I have had Alpin 5 on rims fot 6 years and they have been used a few winters and they are like new and my Alpin 6 have done 18,000 miles in 14 months and are also as new. (well maybe a bit of kerbing damage) I did a thread on Maxxis AP2 a few years back, they were cracking in a few months and i got a bukge which was my fault, I was given a credit by the supplier for these. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic382657-maxxis-a02-all-season-tyres

Thank goodness there are so many in the UK that look and sound as though they are going to be driving an EV anytime soon.

@Karock Which Michelin Winter Tyres is it that it is apparently common with? Is it Cross Climate or Cross Climate + you have fitted? It is just i have 4 sets of Michelin Cross Climates and Alpin 5 & 6 without cracking and have not had any issue with Michelin's in the past

As is it with all vehicles and the Internal Combustion ones have been given an end of first registration date on new ones, but that is only in a small part of the world and because of a carry on with lots of lies and cheating about emissions. So as it is there is still the German and US manufacturers & some others more bothered about how fast they can make cars can go rather than building lighter and more efficient for using on roads.

Sorry, my usual poor photography of a great sky tonight over Forfar.

@Phutters Which is why you should deliver a clean car @ it can get the bodywork inspected , so you tell them not to wash it and that should be written on the Work Sheet and leave a note in the car. If you have one that goes offroad / on muddy tracks etc then a clean underneath is just Simply Clever before Servicing & Maintenance and Inspections at places that are not off road specialists. They might well always clean under a vehicle before working / inspecting it. Without written instructions to not wash it might well get washed by error or because they are idiots.

Be aware. Skoda / VW Group UK have been knocking back Corrosion or Paint Warranty claims now for a few years saying. No record of any Body Inspections, even though the cars can have a FMDSH. Full Main Dealers Services are supposed to include a Inspection of the body. That is a reason to put in a clean car. Oddly a car gets a Free Wash after the Service not when it arrives. So a technician is supposed to spot poor repairs or damage on a possibly dirty car. The Service books used to have a page after the service for the Technician to show where there were marks, damage, corrosion etc. & the Palm Top used to be used as the car was inspected. These were Bi-Annual checks at Major Services. So basically Skoda / VW know if no record of an Inspection the place Servicing the car were not doing them. Be Aware. The Skoda / VW Warranty does not say that Annual or Bi-annual inspections are required to keep the Paint or Corrosion Warranty valid. So basically they were taking the Pith. Make sure if paying Main Dealers for a Service then they complete a Body Inspection & Report. Best take pictures of your car / wheels when the car is dropped off, good Dealerships have the Service Desk person come out and check the car with you when you hand in the keys. Some Dealership wanted £90 to do a body inspection on non Dealership Serviced cars to keep a Warranty Valid. They were at it. There are Techs and Master techs that have said on here that a Body Inspection is not included in the Work Sheet they have when getting the keys of a car to service.

I would remove the Pollen / Cabin filter and if it just needs a vacuum do that and vacuum around the space and wash and dry the plastic and replace the old filter or fit another. I would not leave to 3 years old and the next service if doing one before the warranty expires and when doing the Haldex Service.

Boris has spoken. not a details man! http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-59369715 So BY LAW, All new homes & building in England will 'from next year' have to have an EV charger. I suspect that is not actually all homes or buildings, but mostly houses, detached, semi, terraced etc where the car can get near the property and not every new home, there might be chargers near but not for every home. Chargers single or 3 phase are available at the likes of Tool Station for not much money, and the New Homes are getting wired anyway as are New Buildings. The cost of Chargers can easily come down as can the cost of installation as there is a bit of a con going on with that and Government Grants so Tax Payer's money providing the Hen that lays the Golden Egg. @ 9mins 30, Chargers. Blowing wind out his rear as usual, he has to move his jacket to let it go. @2 mins 30 , 6 mins 30 just his usual muppetry. More here on Major Renovations and 'over 10 parking spaces'. The actual details coming out on the 23rd November or later will be important.

Ask them to Email the Work sheet for what they are actually going to do. They are doing not much and not £249 worth. Oil &Filter service and an overpriced pollen filter which you can change your self. Diagnostic and any updates and a road test if even that. No more than a Oil & Inspection Service & the Pollen Filter. Below is from 3-10 years on Fixed Service Intervals but nothing extra is being done at 18,000-20,000 miles / 24 months or sooner.

Time will tell how Enyaq owners in the UK get on charging when it is actually cold like maybe some places this morning and near freezing temps and below as in areas in the South of Scotland & not in the balmy teens.

Bore Wash was and still is an issue with some Euro 5 1.4 TSI / TFSI 132-136kW Twinchargers. When the petrol was getting in the oil or a driver noticed the oil level getting higher or a garage / technician said the driver had over filled the oil it was a simple check. Dip the oil, take the dipstick away from the car and hold a flame near it and the petrol in the oil ignited rather easily. Same thing happened with TDI's / Diesels that had leaky injectors and again VW Group Dealerships Employees and even Master Techs sometimes blamed the driver, sometimes even the Warranty Managers tried it on. Fuel diluting the Oil is never a good thing. ********Karoq 1.5TSI Petrol in Oil.*********** http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/478991-petrol-in-oil xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Other eg's 1.4TSI's http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/231405-please-readsmell-of-petrol-in-oil http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/274913-oil-test-results Diesel in Oil. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/465204-diesel-in-oil VW GROUP will deny that they ever put diesel in the engine oil before cars / vehicles were put in for the NEDC.

The latest from Michelin are 'Cross Climate 2' which are a move on from 'Cross Climate +.' Check on what sizes they come in. The Briskoda tyre section has several threads on 'All Season / All Weather tyres' and the latest versions from the manufacturers.

OT. I earned my money in the early 70's to buy my first moped and first cars while still at school and working in a Shell Filling Station. Redex was still popular then and it was 5 pence a shot. The agency drivers filling their lorries or cars with Diesel or Petrol got a receipt with more gallons on it than went in the vehicle. They got a 'Cash in hand' amount, the boss got the fuel not sold and paid for it and i got a nice amount of pocket money and free petrol and 2 stroke oil. Best was when the Gas was being changed from Coal Gas to Natural Gas in our area the Vans were fueled where i worked. They must have looked to the Fleet Managers as having terrible fuel consumption. Some might have as the 'Workers' decided who would work each day and who went on the skive by going fishing to the pictures or whatever. Those vehicle might be doing more miles in the day than those with the workers doing the Gas Conversions. https://www.retrowow.co.uk/social_history/70s/how_much_did_things_cost.html

@paddywack1878They are not and not light, which is why i went basic, 16" wheels, no roof rails. no leather, no motorised doors and removed the seats to use it as a van. Funny how they show the more expensive top of the range heavier cars as being more fuel efficient. Vorsprung Durch Technik. Cheat the tests for emissions and cheat the new ones as well.

My 2016 2.0 TDI SCR DSG Seat Alhambra could do 630 miles without trying from 63 litres to well over 700 miles in the Highlands and using 'Coasting'. But using it around town for a few days only doing a few miles a day it would not do 25 miles from a gallon of diesel. After a 20,000 miles when it just started sipping AdBlue it would have the DPF light on and it needed 8 miles of a run to get it off. By 30,000 miles that was starting to get to 20 miles before it went out. Among the last of the great VW Group Defeat Device fuel sippers

Italian Tune up. Once the car / engine / tyres are warmed up give it a bit of a thrash, get the plugs nice and hot and clean of any carbon build up, use the brakes a bit to be sure the discs and pads have a bit of a heat up / free up, any corrosion removed. It is just what Car Salespeople do to cars sitting for a while un-used, just they are unlikely to give the oil time to heat up. Tesco Momentum 99, min 99 ron, lovely stuff in Scotland, now winter grade as all petrol is until the end of March. Esso Synergy 99 produced by Greenergy & delivered to ESSO stations in Scotland, Greenergy part owned by Tesco Sainsbury Super Unleaded, 97 ron min. Good value, E5. Overpriced Shell V-Power Nitro + 99 ron min, base fuel brought in with partner Greenergy. Gulf, BP, Texaco etc Super Unleaded etc. 97 ron min unless they are doing 99 ron min now.

The ECO mode seems to be a waste of effort then and maybe fuel / E10 petroleum. I would stick in a tank of Tesco Momentum 99 (E5) for less than £3 more than the Asda 95 ron E10 petrol and give the car a bit of an Italian Tune up once the engine has an indicated 90 *oC for the oil. then see how it does next week on the short cold start journeys.

Welcome to the forum. So the trips you are doing is the reason. That is assuming the tyre pressures are correct the air filter is clean and the spark plugs are OK. You do not say how many miles the car has done. Try a 20 minute drive before things get colder from tomorrow having reset the computer and see what the indicated fuel consumption is. PS If it did use all of 66 litres for 305 miles that is 21mpg. So was that a brimmed tank and then 305 miles driven and brimmed again taking 66 litres?