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BP Pulse public public charger prices in UK.

BP Pulse as shown on ZapMap. I have put Credit on my PodPoint account to use their 25 pence a kWh 50 Kw chargers @ Lidl next week if i need to rather than than the BP Pulse ones, that is only if the free to use CPS once are out of order.

Simples really. Friends, family, social media recommendations from forums like Briskoda where there might be members in your area, so that type of thing. Give people reading posts an idea were you are. Asking a driver at a taxi rank can be useful sometimes. Or ask a local postie, police person etc. So just as many do for tradespeople.

@Yogi-Bear this dust free stuff and about proper places being expensive. What can be expensive is Insurance work. There are plenty proper places and painters that want work in to keep them or other staff busy. Getting a price locally at trusted places or people is Simply Clever. Generalising helps nobody.

@Yogi-Bearbeing a former industrial and car sprayer and estimater over lots of years and at all sorts of businesses I will say you are talking nonsense. Some of the worst jobs I have ever seen are done at places with all the gear and no idea. VW Approved repairers included in that. Some really crap work is done by 'Kerbside motors / man in a van' on dealerships forecourts and so is some of the best work.

Its all too much for many who just want to charge and drive and charge and drive. If it costs them then it costs them. That is many many EV drivers. I am still checking daily how much i use in electric each day only doing around 6 miles a day with 8-10 short hop trips of no more than 0.7 miles. I will start now leaving it to just 90% charged and topping up each day and see the difference from it being charged to 99%. It is next week before i have a planned multiday trip with a few hundred miles driving. There should be snow by that time...

You are not getting battery capacity by going with averages of km or miles per kWh. Averages are made of highs and lows of numbers. I have a car with a 50 kWh battery and 45 kWh usable. I know that it takes 45 kWH but sometimes more. 3 miles per kWh x 45 = 135 miles. 4 miles per kWh x 45 = 180 miles Coldest weather last winter and a few times i was getting only about 2 miles a kWh so was only getting 90 miles from full to nearly empty just driving short trips locally. I do not run it to empty but have to 5% showing . I went 110 miles on a few occasions on runs in the same temperatures, the difference was weight carried in car as in a passenger or not, and also the car / battery hot before starting off and a non stop journey. I might get a indicated 2.1 kWh for some parts of a journey & when descending / regening over 3.5. The car just gives figures and sometimes they are pretty accurate and sometimes they are just strange but you get to know after setting out from a full charge how things might go for range, and is there lots of energy used at the start of the trip or are you getting regen and the battery charge is staying higher for the start of a trip. At present in coldish weather i use near 5 kWh of charge only driving on average just 6 miles a day average and the car sitting the rest of day and night doing nothing.

A 'Proper Paint shop or car body repair shop can be one man or woman and a dog, or 2 dogs. No point generalising as to what a 'Proper trained and qualified professional person' might charge to do small or large jobs. Location location location can be anyplace. A 10 minute call in to ask a price is always worth doing. Especially if it is not an 'Insurance job'.

@310golfr Lots of people do not realise lots of things and lots of things are misunderstood by people that do not bother to look into them. People buying an EV or Leasing might well look at the Warranty / Guarantee and what the Battery Life / Percentage is after however many miles / km or period of time. It might not be of any importance to them. Many are not buying a keeper, but many have a keeper and knows about their cars batteries. People with a Nissan, Kia / Hyundai, Tesla might have more to go on than those getting a VW/Skoda/Audi/Seat. JLR, PSA etc who's history of full electrics are not very long. Cars with many years on the road and charging and rapid charging tell a story. Used prices are not what they were... They are higher.

So for once a dealership has not changed a Service to Fixed / 9,600 miles / 372 days to suit them. That means you service the car according to the Service Indicator if you want or sooner if it suits & when Serviced leave it on Variable Service intervals if you want or ask to have that reset to Fixed Servicing intervals.

The low emission zones introduction in cities in Scotland are getting dragged out now before being fully introduced to affect car drivers and the areas they will cover are being reduced from what they were originally to be. The increase in businesses using EV vehicles including commercials is increasing quite quickly now in preparation for their introduction.

The difference is private owners drivers and Business / Commercial drivers. Private drivers might just save money using electric over petrol or diesel depending how they can charge the car, but it is if public charging cost etc that matters, & at quick speeds to charge and paying they might save very little cash money. Charging free or offpeak or just cheaply might be no hassle or more of an issue depending on location location location. Business users can be saving much more in the way of taxation and this is why there are many now using EV's as company cars over an ICE, When you have charging available to you ay home, work or places you visit and just pay to charge quickly where and when needed it can be a considerable saving over running a Petrol or Diesel. Hybrids can be what suits some. Horses for courses.

Best maybe start with 100% and run until there is a displayed 10% battery left and then charge again to 100% and see how many kWh it takes. Similar to brimming an ICE vehicles but unlike an ICE you can not vent the tank. The Battery will only take what it can take. (indicated range & kWh per Km or mile matters not as affected by weather / temp etc, what you want to know is how much usable electric there is.)

The Oil change is due at 40,000 miles or sooner if you want. It is not due at 4 years even if Dealership staff tell you it is or this might lead owners to believe.

@sneal the turbos love cold air, there is less traction / friction on the roads if you are still on summer tyres so that helps economy. You are not de-icing the car and are you using heated screen, rear screen or mirrors yet are you. So unless you are doing short journeys with cold starts has the fuel consumption really increased because of the still mild November weather. Or could it be if using E10 fuel since September?

Welcome. A mod will move your post to the Octavia section and hopefully someone can help.

Welcome to the forum. Best assume nothing and try to find out what use it did get, was it long runs of short ones working many hours. Did it start as a Dealership Demonstrator / Sales Managers perk? Look at the Service History but also any Warranty History on the Skoda System. Is the windscreen clear of chips. Is the paintwork original with chips repaired or more paintwork to the front / bonnet? Are the 4 tyres good, the brakes maybe replacements by now, even the battery already replaced. So the servicing @ 50,000 miles but only 50,000 miles should mean that at least 2 oil and filter services were done, or was it on fixed interval services? The Haldex has been serviced at least once but even twice by now and the DSG oil change done at 40,000 miles or sooner. If it has a FMDSH that should be a history showing stuff as done to the Manufacturers Recommendations but might well show them as not having been done.

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/series/miss-peaches-on-the-road

On the best year of first registrations of Skoda on the UK it is under 80,000 vehicles. That means all Skoda models do not sell in much more numbers than just the best selling models from VW, Vauxhall or Ford. (2019 Ford Fiesta 77,000) A good number of those from any manufacturer that come in in normal years being demonstrators and registered to Skoda / VW when a model is not selling well but they want registrations looking good and no model being seen as a flop. Also cars get punted out cheap to whoever, fleet, hire etc for a few months to bump up registrations. This keeps the trade in used cars as they want as well. So maybe look at Skoda First Registrations in the UK in 2021 up till July to see just how many have come in. People have been getting cars as quickly as Skoda UK can get then in allowing for a world wide pandemic, brexit / transport and a chip shortage. They might well be reducing the number of higher emission cars in until the Average C02 figure is as VW group need it to be. EDIT. Here. https://www.smmt.co.uk/vehicle-data/car-registrations

There is vandalism in some car parks where people leave vehicles parked at charge points or just parked, but then people are less likely to leave cars there at times when people are not about. Chargers get vandalised usually when there are not people charging vehicles at a site so no witnesses. Supermarkets like Tesco are providing free charging in partnership with VW as a promotion of Electric / Hybrid vehicles. They are not expecting people to be vandalising vehicles in a supermarket car park. Sometimes it is just people thinking it is a good idea to break a charger or mess about with them. Sticking Cadbury's cream eggs in the charger head seems to be popular. Free charging at Park & Ride is to encourage the use of EV's. It is a pity where lots are installed and they are not getting used and there are only 4 Rapid chargers that will be in demand and not always available as maintenance is so poor. No CCTV coverage at the site is inexcusable as is the police allowing people moving into the site with caravans and stopping the public from using the chargers. No idea why he thinks 4 Rapids are 'So many'. Holy smoke that is a pathetic amount.

@KenONeill Just read something that quoted me and replied to it. I have no idea what you mean much of the time with EV's and i think until you drive some neither do you.

@KenONeill I posted to you after you used a quote from me. I claimed nothing of the sort about overinflated tyres making the ride soft. But make up your own stories as you like.

A lovely day for cycling today with not a breath of wind and when the sun was out and paths were drying, but muddy on trails.

@KenONeill My experience of EV's is that they brakes via the brake pedal work very well at stopping the cars. What must be remembered is something many seem not to. An EV with just a driver & Size for size with an ICE vehicle are around the same weight as if you were driving the ICE sized car with maybe 3 passengers in it. Then many EV's are on rather crap ECO tyres and if it is a car on Loan / Demonstrator or just as it comes from a Dealership the tyres are possibly overinflated. So they need driven as many that uses common sense do drive them. If an Emergency stop is required then you are very likely to get hit up the jacksy from a vehicle behind that might not stop as quickly. Then again drivers need to be aware of possibly hopeless tyres that might be fitted and damp surfaces etc. PS Often people that only drive manuals find driving an Auto or Automated Manual strange or different, maybe even disliking how the brakes are. That will therefor maybe apply if the manual driver tries an EV, or even someone that drives an Auto tries an EV. Even with cars the same model or year driving a Diesel Manual or Auto can be different from driving a Petrol Manual or Auto, as can coasting, braking and handling / vehicle weight.

Different EV's behave very differently when you use Reg braking or not and maybe use the brake pedal more than you might need to if you do use the regen . Some cars stand in their nose nearly if you actually do use the brake pedal sharply or even just a bit hard as you come to a stop. Ev's can benefit very much from lifting off the accelerator and using coasting and then regen with the paddles or shifter or what ever system or setting there is. Sometimes in some car the Mode driven in will change greatly town / city driving as in ECO, Normal, Sport etc, and ECO in town might not be the best choice.