Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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312mm discs on your car correspond to a PR code of 1LL or 1ZB. The list on the data sticker usually doesn't include the front brake system PR code, bizarrely. See wheels, brakes Octavia (OCT) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com)
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An oil temperature of 86 is not remotely warning-worthy; so you probably just accidentally switched something to make it display oil temperature. Relax.
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It will have been either an oil level warning or oil pressure warning. Or even a coolant level warning. What colour was the warning light? Have you checked the oil level on the dipstick? And the coolant level in the expansion tank?
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Pull the vacuum hose off the top of the EGR, block the hose with a golf tee or similar, then drive it around for a week and you'll find out.
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The one next to F30.
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It's the one in position 2 in the engine bay box.
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^ Sounds like the typical direction of progress in automotive tech.
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Check the wire that goes to the pressure switch (for damage to insulation and conductor, and the connector for oiliness or corrosion). Fit a new pressure switch if you haven't already.
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Points 4 and 5 in your opening post go against that theory though, I think.
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I didn't get that from your earlier posts, sorry. I faintly remember there being a transistor within the Onboard Supply Unit that grounds that brown/yellow wire in response to the door switches. I guess that may have blown up. I'm pretty sure I've got a photo of it somewhere, but haven't the energy to look tonight.
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Couldn't it be both door switches?
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For less than £20 you can buy a suitable cable, set yourself up with the freeware version of VCDS on a laptop, and be able to read fault codes yourself. Have you asked the garage what fault codes (the numbers) they read at each stage? Or did they tell you? Could always ask now if they didn't write these down on any invoices. You've paid for that info, really.
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Yep that's the positive connection. May need a new crimp on the end of that wire, that's probably what caused the overheat.
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Be careful with that 'main black alternator ground' because I'm pretty sure that's the 12V connection; got a photo?
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You don't say which 1.2 engine variant this is (54 or 64 bhp?) Sensor failures are pretty rare, so it is extremely unlikely that both were at fault. Cam sensor shouldn't be a big bill; it's very easy to change, and not that much to buy, even for a genuine part. Crank sensor is much more awkward to change.
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Probably somewhere in the range 75-100. Watch engine coolant temperature in VCDS during warm up of your car and compare to gauge indication. You'll see it gets to 90 indicated well before the sensor says 90. I've never played with seeing how hot it can get before it reads over 90; slightly dodgy thing to experiment with, cos you'll probably have to disable fans to get it hot enough to find out. It's not a biggie though, anywhere in that range is fine to drive any way you feel like.
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Seems to me that the part number you want is 6Q0 129 607 AJ, see entries for item 7 relating to ASZ and BLT engine codes here intake connection; air filter with connecting par... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com)
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The different position is because the manual shows a LHD car.
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Isn't this it?
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Rotating isn't reciprocating.
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Look under the Individual vehicle information tab, select repair info, model etc.
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The only one is the combined oil level and temperature sensor which sits through a hole in the bottom of the sump, shown in this ebay listing You'll have to judge whether that might be close to the path of the dipstick or not, but it won't be directly in line, I'm pretty sure. Fully encased anyway, so you'd struggle to damage it with a flexible pipe.
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No, just use the tips of your fingers to feel where your eyes can't see. If there are cracks, your fingers will feel them.
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You need to feel as well as look, the cracks often seem to form on the underside, out of view from above.
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