Breezy_Pete

A/C should work better with both fans able to run at low speed, irrespective of coolant temperature. That was actually the first indication that the main fan's low speed on ours was busted; at a standstill in hot weather with A/C on, the main fan would cycle between off and on at full speed every few seconds, instead of the low speed working continuously.

Behind lower dash trim under steering wheel, bottom row of relay holder, second one from left (position 11). Anything else not working?

There's one on ebay from a 9n3 Polo with that part number in the title, but the pictures show 6y1959801, is that the one you're looking at? I've seen it claimed that the software in these is model and brand-specific, so not sure if that matters. Expensive gamble at that price.

Says where?

Leave them alone. There's no way I know of to check torque on bolts that have been torque plus angle tightened. What number would you even check them against?

I've edited my answer to your last thread on this subject. I do think it will physically fit, but I doubt it will work properly, as 6y2959801 is used on the passenger door in cars where it is fitted, and there is a master/slave relationship between the drivers and passenger side units. Some components are omitted from the circuit board on the slave units, compared to the masters (acknowledging a recent contribution from @Bertie90 here. ).

I'm not sure you need to do the thermoswitch bypassing test though, I'd be pretty confident that you've got a failed low-speed function on the main fan.

It wasn't the photo I thought I'd taken, but this shows the clip style; not sure how much that helps. If you link me to the post with the broken picture I can probably fix it, which would be good.

I may be able to find a photo of the connector support taken from the other side. I remember taking one...

There was a post from someone offering vcds lite registered; gone before you read it apparently.

Yep, standard 'Climatic' A/C system.

Ok, well if the light's not on, then your A/C isn't doing anything, so it won't be affecting your mpg. The fan bearings are probably worn and corroded. Fiddly access but not difficult to swap another fan in there. The airflow you're experiencing is just passive by the sounds of it, due to the movement of the car. Does it stop blowing when you stop? Just pop up a photo of your A/C/heating controls to make sure we're all on the same page.

A/C will/should not switch on if the cabin fan isn't running, are you saying yours does? (Does the light in the switch go on/off when you press switch with fan at 0?) Is the squeaking sound in the cabin or the engine bay?

You don't mention having removed the hub nut?

I've got the same one you have anewman, but it did splay out in use, would be better with some normal bolts that would sit down flat across the slots, where radius seat wheel bolts will only touch at a pair of points either side of the slot and allow the thing to distort under load. I managed to squeeze it back into the original shape in a big vice, then acquired such bolts for next time (which hasn't happened yet). Are the thread knackered? Doe sit just turn and turn without progressing? @TMB's one looks a better design, and good value.

Dunno fellas but one of the hundred-odd search results in that link I posted must discuss the rear end, I'd've thought? Send a photo of the offending items to your respective dealerships and invite comment? Put the ball in their court, see if they're suitably embarrassed?

If definitely mk1, go here:

Is it a mk1 or a mk2? If you're uncertain tell us what the 7th and 8th characters are in the VIN.

Measure again in September Gaz, changing too early is both financially and environmentally wasteful.

Soy-based plastics in the cable insulation rather than petroleum-based, I've heard. Not used in older cars.

It's not at all unheard of for dealerships to fail to remove the 'transport blocks' from the suspension before delivery. Showing results for '"transport blocks"'. - BRISKODA

Pretty sure his was a rear bearing. Considerably easier to swap around.

I think it's not too bad to remove as long as the three screws holding the 'tripod' to the main fan shroud are not too rusted. Be very careful to get your T30 torx bit fully engaged in the screw heads before trying to turn, or you are likely to round the heads off.

There's a member on here called @Carlston who is extremely good at researching the details of wheels, springs and other suspension bits, and finding best equivalences between OE and aftermarket parts. If you're lucky he may apply his impressive skills towards helping you.

Yep, middle pin to the outer one with brown wire should bring on the low speed, bet it doesn't. There's a fix you can do rather than replacing the fan, involving an external power resistor, if you fancy saving money compared to fan replacement. At 20 years old though, the fan is maybe due for replacement. Radiator fan repair, courtesy of Vortex, here and UK-MKIV forum - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA My latest repair just cable-tied such a resistor to the fan holder: