Breezy_Pete

Nice work. Please let us know how you get on.

Not sure it can be that simple. Wish I had a window module on the bench I could look at, but doesn't the relay have to be able to reverse the polarity of the power to the motor? (For up and down window movement) And you'd lose any 'stop at the end of possible travel' function wouldn't you?

Good plan, sounds like BS from whoever said that about the 12V skts, unless they are only live when ignition is on.

In the passenger side unit info, the bits where it says F220 should say F221, the passenger side lock unit. (copy paste error from driver's side info). And where it says 'key lock/unlock sig(nal)', it probably shouldn't say key, as there's probably not a key barrel there Will edit the doc tomorrow, and hopefully add some more info/understanding.

I'm not sure if the Octavia workshop manual features the same instruction, but in the Mk1 Fabia manual there's the following line that I can't helping thinking the odd apprentice must have read and misunderstood catastrophically. The plastic bits referred to here as 'sliding blocks': Sliding block ❑ Cover the whole contact surface of the brake shoe with solid lubricant paste - G 000 650-

Possibly/probably need some replacements for some little plastic bits that the shoe is meant to sit against. Item 2A here: back plate; wheel brake cylinder; brake shoe with ... - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2003 year] (7zap.com) (would be better if they were named 'anti-friction washer' I think). three per shoe/ 6 per side, I think. Probably cheaper from a dealership/TPS than from ebay. Try Mike at Coverdale Carparts for genuine bits by post. View that first link on a computer rather than a phone if it seems to be missing vital columns of information.

Let's see if this works. Please read the bit at the top before saying "mine isn't wired like that" if you have a car these tables don't apply to. Note there are a few connections that I don't yet know the functions of, WIP. Abbreviations in the 'via' column like A-4w2 mean "4-way connector at the a-pillar, pin 2" Note also that this hasn't been thoroughly checked, and I may have made mistakes. Mk1 Fabia Door Control unit wiring.docx

See this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/474566-did-our-fabia-12-clutch-replacers-cause-the-engine-timing-to-go-out/?do=findComment&comment=5325649

Make sure they know not to turn this engine backwards at any point during the work. If they look blank when you mention this, don't give them the work.

Reasonably common I think: Showing results for '"blt hesitation"'. - BRISKODA

Ah yes, the part number you read from it didn't change to the suffix C until later than your car was built: Buy 5N0820803 a/c compressor Audi, Seat, Skoda, Volkswagen genuine OEM part kit (oemwolf.com)

Don't think VCDS can see anything to do with these unfortunately.

Can you measure voltage at starter motor when cold cranking, with an assistant on either the meter or in driver's seat? Probably awkward to get probes in there though. Does the positive cable from battery go directly to starter?

Should be enough, probably; decent crimp connections both ends?

That table's going to take longer than I've got patience for this evening, tomorrow hopefully.

I doubt the compressor will even try to pump if the sensor says the system is low on gas.

Yep, that's the right part, as far as I understand it. I can't help feeling I'm missing something obvious. I think after dinner I'll tabulate the wiring to the two connectors on each door module for the later arrangement. That may trigger some ideas in me or someone else. The LIN data connection goes from pin 3 of the 8-way connector on the driver's side module to pin 3 of the 8-way on the passenger door module (and nowhere else), which might be an important one to continuity check end-to-end. Grey/white all the way.

How thick is the cable from battery positive to starter?

What's this bit of cable trunking going to?

Not a clue. The wiring must be there, close to the sensor. unwrap some loom near the sensor and look for those colour wires, all quite thin ones.

Pin 1 at the sensor is earth, a brown wire, going to some earth point in the engine bay loom. Pin 2 is the signal, going to pin 5 of the 20-way black connector at the climatic control panel in the cabin, or pin 2 of the climatronic module if it's that system. It's a violet/yellow wire. Pin 3 is the ignition switched 12V supply, coming from cabin fuse 4 on a black/yellow wire. If the car originally came with A/C, I think these wires must be findable somewhere near that sensor. Bit of a mystery why they would ever have been 'lost' though. You did have a look around all the A/C pipework in case there's another 'real' wired-up G65 somewhere, did you? I think where you found it is the normal position though.

Only if you'll tell us what year the car is, and what type of A/C it has (Climatic or Climatronic). Is there no sign of anything cut off from that bit of loom closest to the sensor in the corrugated black tube descending next to the headlight unit

Only the first of those. I don't think schematics of the motor module will be available anywhere outside of VW group, if they even have them. The car wiring diagrams for both the earlier and later versions can both be found via the erWin Skoda site, though you have to pay a small fee for access. The early version is available in the CFD documents within this link , but they aren't the right ones for your 2006 nor the OP's 2007 car unfortunately. As well as a difference in the way the modules communicate with each other and/or the car as a whole, there seems to be a different arrangement from fuse 11. (some incorrect stuff deleted form here) What are the full part numbers of your motors? Photo of labels ideally. Is one of them the factory original from your car? I wonder if the most pragmatic, simplest solution is to put a beefy switch in series with the main power feed to the drivers side module so it can be 're-awakened' by cycling the power to it whenever the windows need adjustment. Sounds very crude, and would need a suitably rated switch. I was hoping that disconnecting fuse 11 might have the same effect, but the OP seems to have demonstrated that this isn't the case.

Looks like yours @pcdee is probably the suffix C one, first Sanden listing here: a/c compressor; connecting and mounting parts for... - Yeti(YET) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com) ? (View on computer not phone to see all columns) Pulley part number isn't shown but google may be able to help with the full part number as search term.

Your evidence for that? All swash plate I thought. Edit: looked up Octymk2 by mistake, new link coming with more relevant info...