Breezy_Pete

Yeah, cos the clamp isn't holding the ends together any more!

They butt end to end within the clamp if both parts are original design. Isn't it the sleeve that's snapped in half? Will look at some more of the pics.

It's one of my least favourite under-car jobs, and the pros will surely be able to get the clamps cheaper than you can, and do it in far less time. Possibly not the last place you took it though...

I think you need a 45mm one, measure the exhaust pipe outside diameter to be sure.

I doubt it, that's well after both lambda sensors.

Hmm, looks like neither of those has the correct connector for it to be a straight, plug-in swap. (Unless the connector in the car looks like it would mate with anything shown in those listings. My mental image is a straight in-line 4-way?) Are you happy to splice wiring into the old wires/connector? I guess the supplied pins may fit in the OEM housing if you de-pin it? Looks unlikely if the images are true to reality.

Re-using that original clamp was very, very optimistic if a leak free system was intended.

0 258 986 507 appears to be the one, equivalent to VW group part number 03D906265A What prices are you seeing for that Bosch number?

OK. The battery light should go off immediately after the engine starts, but it may be that because of low battery charge the alternator is feeding a lot of current to the battery as soon as it starts to generate, causing its output voltage to dip as it does. Raising the revs raises the amount of current it can generate. The sparking and slight wiper movement at reconnection of the battery lead is normal I believe. You probably do have a parasitic current problem, so maybe try measuring voltage across some fuses as described in this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/377587-technical-bulletin-about-parasitic-current-draw-measurement/ Pay particular attention to cabin fuse 43 and make sure the car is fully shut down before measuring, by flicking the driver's side door latch closed while the door is still open for fusebox access (so the car thinks all the doors are shut) and leaving the car untouched for 30 minutes.

Start by doing this ten second check: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/401778-battery-light-and-associated-problems/

Why do you need/want it to do anything at all when the engine isn't running?

Are you browsing on a computer or phone? Happy to screenshot that correct page if helpful? Phones sometimes chop out useful columns. Hehe, having said that I can't get that page to load at all just now. That site can be a bit flaky, as can my broadband.

Ah, OK, sorry, I didn't anticipate that ambiguity. That clip is part of the pad, as you'll see in my latest link.

Might have been a puddle there already from a previous customer.

If they don't have that, then this is the page with all the relevant details: floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com)

Oh? How do they have the spring clip (item 4 in my screenshot above) then?

Did you splash some fuel outside the filler neck, into that drain hole area?

That drain hole is supposed to drain onto the ground, isn't it?

Brown/yellow wire to pin 4 of that connector would be the one that could cause this, if broken.

Just driving the car more will re-educate the system about the 'new normal'. If the vac line cracking was actually leaking air, and something has changed.

Yours must be the 288 set-up then I think: Part number of pads shown as item 15. /If you navigate to that page via the link I posted before, then click the button I've highlighted with the red square, it'll give you a long list of aftermarket parts equivalent to that Skoda number.

You need to work out, or find out which PR code your front brake system is. 1KS only refers to the rear. There appears to be 3 different options 280mm discs - PR=1ZF 288mm - PR=1ZE and 312mm PR=1LL or 1ZB At 122hp I doubt it's the last of those, so look at your calipers and see if they have a spring clip on the outside face (288 style) or not (280 style). See diagrams and part numbers of everything via this page: (view on computer not phone or you tend to lose vital columns in the table) wheels, brakes Octavia (OCT) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com)

Post no longer required.

Be careful when it comes to putting it back too. The seats are heavy, so it's not that easy to give them slight nudges to line up bolt hole perfectly with the captive nut. Get it starting at an un-noticed angle and cross-threading nightmares may follow rapidly.