Breezy_Pete

Regens are programmed not to start if the tank level is low...

Engine code needed in order to find appropriate wiring info.

Might be worth alerting @hutchysrs50 like I just did there. I seem to remember it was mainly about making sure all the relevant 12V and 0V feeds to the J519 Central Electrics unit were wired up, as well as the obvious ones to the clocks, and various data lines. I've got a (J519) unit at home that I managed to get to talk to VCDS without anything else connected, so could look at what I did there with the wiring, later. He could probably clarify the situation regarding immobiliser whilst on the site, in this thread? Service messages refuse to reset. - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA Would be appreciated.

Diesel engine?

No idea what t's supposed to look like, but here is your pic spun 90°

That mouse isn't dead, it's just resting!

VCDS may be able to tell you why it's going into limp mode with fault code(s)? Injectors unable to meet fuelling requirements seems likely?

A 2006 Fabia will be a mk1 rather than a mk2, but I think a bigger problem may be in your choice of engine to turbocharge. Good luck.

News to me. Haven't downloaded any very recently mind. Every pdf I've ever downloaded before has had no such limitations. The key is to go to the right bit of the site where the whole pdfs are available to download, rather than the bits where you can only view/print.

Keep looking, sounds like there's a leak somewhere. Check that the door drainage is working OK, some recent Skodas seem to have some badly designed rubber seals that cause the doors to not drain themselves. I forget which model(s).

Circuit diagrams seem not to feature J393 Central Convenience as a physically separate entity from Nov 2008 onwards. Connections that used to go to it seem to go to BCM instead.

Dry in that bit. Item 18A here (view on a computer, not phone to see full info) steering gear; track rod - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2008 year] (7zap.com)

I think they completely stopped applying them anywhere a couple of years back.

See if it's in the owners manual, I can't remember off the top of my head.

Think it's just a case of re-syncing the keys. Make sure you get exactly the right/same part number.

I'm fairly sure all of those ones on that link are equivalent and all correct for your car. 7zap.com will tell you the relevant part number by navigating through to the correct diagram, but not by VIN input.

A few posts back he said he had no problems when using 5w40, so reverting to that may be all that's needed. As I think sepulchrave once pointed out, 5w40 is generally fully synthetic and 10w40 generally semi-synthetic. In my opinion that means the 5w40 is likely to offer better properties generally, only really being slightly thinner at cold temperatures than the 10w40. Probably a good idea to pick a 5w40 that also meets VW 502 00 specification over one that doesn't. What country are you in @benkadjimi?

Try charging the battery if you have or can borrow a charger. Check all cabin fuses one at a time if you haven't already.

Scan the HVAC module with VCDS and see if you have a fault code for heater flap motor.

The motor inside the door lock sounds like it is not working. Try hitting the open button on the fob just as you physically simultaneously start to unlock drivers door with the key. That may give the motor a 'nudge' via the gears and possibly make it spin up.

Oil pressure isn't monitored below 1500rpm.

5w40 fully synthetic is probably better than 10w40, I think.

I guess the oil gets a bit hotter at the higher speed, so it gets thinner and more difficult for the pump to keep enough pressure. Which oil specification are you using?

Try the cheaper things like oil pressure switch and maybe oil pump, but I should think after that distance the engine may just be worn out.

Which engine type does you Fabia have, and how many miles or kilometres has the car done? When was the oil and oil filter last replaced?