Breezy_Pete

Try the cheaper things like oil pressure switch and maybe oil pump, but I should think after that distance the engine may just be worn out.

Which engine type does you Fabia have, and how many miles or kilometres has the car done? When was the oil and oil filter last replaced?

2. The slots in the ends of the cams are not quite on the centrelines, so if the locking tools are fitted into those slots and screwed in place, the cams are in the correct positions. If the crank locking tool is fitted, and the balance shaft gear marks are aligned, then the crank is also in the correct position. Look closely at the cam end slots and you will see that there are two different positions they can be in and still both be horizontal and aligned to each other; the correct position is when the slots are both above the centrelines of the shafts, rather than below. This is the only position where the locking tools will fit and can be screwed in place with the same screws that held the covers on.

Earth wiring is generally brown. Not sure what you mean by the above?

^ Only if you know what the codes are first!

I'm sure they would.

The PR codes on the sticker are a small subset (maybe 1 in 10) of the full listing for the car. The ones you need are often missing. Full data can be bought for a small fee via erWin; or provided FOC from a friendly parts person at a dealership, from your VIN.

Look for part number stickers on the shocks themselves.

Unless the car has start/stop there won't be any battery related coding possible, I believe.

^ Good man, thanks. That third character of the cartridges must be a zero rather than a letter O I think, same with tank part number.

From when, approx?

What's the (full) part number of that expansion tank? Looks like it's moulded into the plastic of the outside of the bottom, so may take a phonecam picture to see. Can see 1K0 121 407 backwards through the plastic in your first photo (I think), but not what letter follows the 7. And is there a part number on the cylinders (assuming they come out as easily as it appears)? I would've thought that a cooling system with any type of containers of 'future blockage creator' material was a backward step, but they must be having to counteract some other 'new' problem that's been designed in, I reckon.

That engine-off voltage suggests the battery is low on charge and would benefit from more charging than it's getting at present, but the voltages when running and loaded up electrically seem healthy. Seems unlikely to be the issue, but may be worth borrowing a charger to improve its state of charge without having to go for a long 'non-essential' drive. So I think my next question would be which fuse numbers have you checked? Did you include fuse 11?

Are you sure it's worth the added risk to make any changes here? I don't think I would.

Bound to be, but I've not seen one. No idea. I think in general, any attempt to do anything with the EGR system on the CRs seems to be fraught with problems.

Yeah I think it's well worth trying, as the circuitry between diagnostic connector and J533, the CAN gateway, looks to be the same on both, up until cars with start/stop at least. Surely someone on here must already have the car and the kit to be able to try it?....

I don't think that's necessarily the case, having looked at circuits. I'll have another look while I have my lunch now.

OK, I guess that's all you can do with the PCV valve. I've asked the question on here before about whether VCDS Lite plus third-party FTDI cable works on early Mk2s but received no response, so I don't know. I think it might, but I have no friends or neighbours with a suitable car to check on.

Yeah, as I said, needs the correct locking tools and a counterhold tool before it could be worth considering. You do it with everything locked, and chain fitted.

The cam sprockets aren't keyed to the camshafts, so you do effectively have infinite adjustment.

Try charging your battery if you have a charger.

I think you may find some videos on youtube of removal from these engines and cleaning . Removal looks hideous, from below, with horrible access. That may be why you don't find many search results on here for removal/cleaning.

I don't think you will get all the parts to line up 100% perfectly with an old chain, unless you loosen the cam sprockets from the camshafts and adjust their positions. I certainly would not advise doing that without having everything locked in position with the correct tools and using an appropriate counterhold tool on the sprockets. If you consider where the alignment hole is on the flywheel (distance from axis) you can probably calculate the misalignment angle you have, and maybe decide it is insignificant. Look at pictures of the flywheel on ebay/google to see the hole position on the flywheel back.

OK, well your glowplug control unit does have one direct dependency on that relay. The output of that 100 relay feeds into the glowplug control unit via fuse 15, as a non-permanent 12V feed. (It feeds many other things too). The glowplug controller has 9 connections; four to the plugs, one permanent 12V, one earth, two to the engine ECU and this one from fuse 15. That same fuse also supplies the coils of the fuel pump relay(s) on your engine so seems like a good one to check in case of non-start.

Engine code or I can't help.