Breezy_Pete

Yes, if you want working A/C.

Items 17, 22 here. Looks like access to the bolt head is right underneath alternator. May be awkward without alternator removal, but probably worth trying. The other style of tensioner (item 2) appears to be for non-A/C cars. connecting and mounting parts for alternator; pol... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com)

Well there should be a three way loom connector, ignition 12V, earth and signal/data out, otherwise the A/C won't work. Can look up wire colours if you tell me what year the car is.

G65 pressure sensor; item 18 here: refrigerant circuit; a/c condenser - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com), I think. Presumably your A/C isn't currently working?

^ Good post, but got me thinking... Actually, almost any way you connect things up, the car will still see the extra current demand, and react accordingly, unless you earth the new battery directly to the negative post of the existing (bypassing the battery management shunt), but I can't see why you'd do that.

The vacuum/solenoid block on top of the offside strut tower may be worth homing in on to see if it may be the source of the clickage.

Please folks, consider the mods/admins and Colin before posting inflammatory stuff. The future existence of the site could be threatened by a handful of inconsiderate individuals.

Learn to navigate around one of the ETKA clone sites like 7-zap.com, and you will be able to compare part numbers of items from various VW-group models to see interchangeable items (identical part numbers). Polo 9N is the VW with most parts overlap to Fabia Mk1; for Seat it's the Ibiza of the same time period, I think. Here are some links to Polo 9N (2003 in this example) and Fabia (2005) Group Parts Polo/Derby/Vento-IND (PO) [EUROPA 2003 year] (7zap.com) Group Parts Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com)

I guess if the price is right it's worth a try. I tried to make myself a little table of part numbers for pre-and post-facelift mk1 Fabia, Polo 9N and 9N3, but it all got far too complicated too fast for my brain. I've never looked inside a passenger side module to see what might be different. I thought the connectors would be, but maybe there's just fewer wires going to the same connectors, or not. I don't feel I'm helping much here, sorry!

RH door on a LHD car would have a slave module rather than a master, I would've thought, so not sure it would work. Do the connectors look like they would all fit?

All the best moley, but please reconsider in the cold light of day. The ignore function is reasonably effective at removing those that irritate excessively.

Oemwolf.com website can be handy for spotting such equivalences. If you stick that Fabia part number in the search box (minus all the spaces) you find that it gets superseded first by 6Y0035411D in 2006, which was then superseded by an Octy mk2, suffix-Q number 1Z0035411Q in 2011 If you then search for the Octy mk2 part number 1Z0035411C you see that it too is superseded by the same Suffix-Q part number in 2011, thus demonstrating interchangeability.

The heating of the mirrors working?

Check no. 11 again, better still replace it. It isn't just for the mirrors. Also, make sure you're checking the correct ones, LHD/RHD fuse layouts are often poorly documented in Skoda manuals.

Which fuse numbers have you checked? Fuse 11? Does the battery symbol come on when you turn the ignition on (it should)?

Find the build data sticker in the boot or service book and look for a PR-code that specifies which rear brake set-up you have. It will be 1KD, 1KS or 1KJ, corresponding to one of the three last diagrams here: wheels, brakes Yeti (YET) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com)

When you say every single fuse, do you include the ones in the cabin?

Find the dummy speed sensor on the differential and then feel your way forward onto the back of engine block a few inches forward of it. Challenging access. Edit. Can just about make out the cable going to it diagonally in this blurry pic:

How much are they suggesting it would be as Private Light Goods?

If you do decide that module replacement is the way to go, make sure it has exactly the same part number, as read off yours; and there's one other thing that it would be nice to check, preferably before paying anything to anyone for a secondhand one. There's a fault that sometimes occurs with a surface-mount capacitor on these modules. It may or may not be related to the relay contact failure, difficult to judge cause and effect I think. Its role seems to be to filter a feedback signal that tells the relevant microcontroller what state the relay is in. In extreme cases the capacitor nukes itself and causes a parasitic battery drain problem, either directly or indirectly. It's here on the board, and the board is pretty straightforward to 'unhouse' from the plastic case: This is a 'well cooked' example:

No worries.

It probably is the relay, because when they wear out the problem is the contacts that carry the high current, not the coil. so just because you hear clicking doesn't mean there's an adequate connection being made. It does confirm that the stalk signal is being received and correctly acted on though. It sounds like you've ruled out virtually every other possibility except perhaps wiring damage between control unit and wiper motor. To check this you could unplug the relevant connector from the control unit (with everything off, keys not in ignition) and link two contacts of the loom connector to simulate the relay being switched on and conducting well. See here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488162-strange-windscreen-wiper-behaviour/?do=findComment&comment=5480720 (see also my next post in that thread too, after I'd tried it on my car). If that results in wiper function being OK, you face either replacing the relay on the circuit board, or replacing the whole control module (needs minimal coding, none if the donor car has exactly the same options). Relay replacement is described here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/473170-wiper-relay-replacement/

Best to start a fresh thread, since you've ruled out the relevance of this solution.

Look at the image of one of these DPF pressure sensors in the amazon link in the post above your first one. Find an item that looks the same in your engine bay, inspect it for obvious signs of damage as a first step.

I don't think the current UK MOT involves any functional check of the shock absorbers; just visual. @Ju1ian1001 may be able to confirm?