Breezy_Pete

Sorry, it's newer than that website I linked covers. Your engine code is DFCA. Looking at ebay pics of that engine suggests belt rather than chain, and diesels rarely have chains.

Almost certainly.

The confusion may be arising from the fact that some of the mk2 trim variants in the UK were named Fabia 1, Fabia 2 etc. This from wikipedia: The second generation Fabia trim levels were Classic, Ambiente, Sport and Elegance. In the UK the trim levels were called 1, 2, Sport, 3, and GreenLine (later S, SE, Elegance, and GreenLine). In India, the trim levels were Active, Classic, Ambiente and Elegance. All models sold within the EU were equipped with ABS, front passenger, driver and side airbags. Curtain airbags and ESC were available as an option. So a Fabia 1, Fabia 2 and Fabia 3 are all mk2 Fabias.

Nice one, much appreciated. I'll see what I can find.

Match your actual engine code to one of the four-letter ones starting with a 'C' on this page, then scroll down to the relevant diagram for timing chain or belt. (approx 1/3 of the way down the page) engine Superb (SUP) [EUROPA 2016 year] (7zap.com)

Part number seems to vary between estate and hatchback. And pre/post facelift I think, so best to check what's on ones own car before acquiring replacement. Any chance of having a closer look at the duff microswitch in search of part numbers? (might be on other side).

@maccy it'll be variable depending on the conductance of the coolant, which will vary with age and contamination and probably temperature. Also any deposits on the probes will likely change the situation significantly. Using tap water as opposed to de-ionised/distilled water to dilute the coolant seems likely to affect things too. If it helps at all, my investigations suggest that if the resistance on the end of the loom connector (i.e. normally the probes in the coolant) is more than about 60 kilohms, a low level alarm is triggered. Below that and it isn't. (I didn't get more exact than finding a 56k resistor didn't give an alarm, but a 62k resistor did, when used to 'short' the unpugged loom connector). Measuring resistance between the pins of the tank connector while adjusting the level could give you some idea of what level this is for your coolant, with your probes.

Sort of. The blue wire that starts the alternator up, which isn't the load sense one, but often breaks in the same place.

I haven't heard from @NeilTM for a while, but last I heard there were still multiple faults and running problems. It's since become clear to me that on the twin-cam, 12-valve versions of the HTP engines, valve damage should be expected with timing chain slips. I expect the 6-valve versions will be less likely to suffer such damage. Which is yours @lello7? Easy way to tell is what colour the 'p' of htp is on the back of the car. Black-6v, red-12v.

I'm not convinced your car will have trailer electrics preparation unless it was ordered specifically. I don't have wiring diagrams for Superbs as recent as yours, but on the 2013- diagrams, the "trailer detection control unit" is somewhere a bit forward of those connectors on LHS of trunk. Can't quite make out exactly where we are in your photo, bit too close-in. The wiring from the front of the car to this unit doesn't seem to have any intermediate connections, and goes into a 12-way connector at the control unit. May all have changed since then though. Do you have a multimeter? If not, borrow or buy one (cheapest one you can find will do) and just look for 12v supplies that are always live amongst the pins of those connectors; or any others you can find near point of need.

Is start-stop disabled on those logged runs?

" You want the truth? YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE TRUTH! " Thanks for making me picture Jack Nicholson on fine form in A Few Good Men.

Give it a go, it has to help a little. Bear in mind though that until the thermostat begins to open (high 80s-low 90s C?) there is no coolant flow through the radiator at all, so all you're doing is reducing air cooling of the outside of the engine a little. I'm not aware of any Fabia with electrical heating of the coolant, @paulkennedy, what car was the 'last 1.9' you mentioned above?

Banging on about politics on a car forum has always struck me as an outstandingly pointless exercise. All the best xman.

@Olwen what year is your Fabia, and which engine type does it have? When you switch the ignition on to the point that all the warning lights come on briefly, does the battery symbol light up, and stay lit until you start the engine? Can you inspect (or photograph and post here) the strip fuses in the fuse carrier on top of the battery?

See what happens if you help the glass move in the appropriate direction by pushing up or down with a palm on the glass as you activate the switch. Measure the battery voltage before and after starting the engine, to assess its state of charge and the health of the charging system.

As I understand it, a LIN data stream tells the alt to change it's voltage setpoint up/down as reqd. Current flows as a consequence according to Ohm's law, into connected loads, including the battery.

Only way to do that is varying the voltage at the alternator output, no?

The one you linked last night is for a 1.4 engine, it says. TBH your best bet is to take the car to an exhaust place and ask them which bit is making the noise, and to replace it with standard if it's non-standard or leaking. Buying the part yourself will save you nothing unless you can fit it yourself, and it's not really the weather for that sort of thing. You just have the added risk of changing the wrong section, and adding new leaks at the joints if you DIY it.

HAPPY FOR YOU!

Seller has good feedback scores on lots of sales, so yeah, fine.

Winds circle round areas of low pressure and tend to be strong in storms, so depends where you are relative to the centre of the low. The centre doesn't stay still though, and neither did you. I'm sure I could look up historical met data for both your long journeys, but I can't summon that much interest. It could be a significant factor though, often neglected. Long term fill-to-fill mileages are the only real indication.

Doesn't matter as long as it's to 507 00.

Don't suppose you noticed the wind directions on your long trips? I imagine they would - on average - tend to be more favourable northbound than southbound, so reducing the delta in mpgs, possibly?