Breezy_Pete

Have you checked that they are the correct diameter? There are two options on the 1.2 HTPs, 239mm and 256mm.

Anything would do, I think. Couldn't bring myself to bother, personally. Horrible thing to try to clean up well, and virtually nothing to gain from having done it.

Rust is much bigger than the metal it started out as. A quick google suggests that the volume of rust is about 6 times as large as the parent metal it grew from. So, as above, no concern.

See above, fuse 3 should be your first port of call. Check for corroded terminals on the fuse as well as checking if it's blown.

Fuse 3 looks like a candidate.

Have you checked that none of the fuses in your photo are blown? I have a funny feeling that you may find a 5 Amp one gone. As I said upthread, terminal 30 is a description in the circuit diagrams of everything that's connected to battery positive, so no one photo can show you everywhere that is. Terminal 30 reference sounds like a dedicated wire for the Central Electrics module to 'sample' battery voltage, without any other loads on the wire changing that reading due to current flows. I'll have a look at the circuits again to try to see such wire, and tell you which fuse it might come from.

Cut for balance purposes, I imagine. So no problem.

I had a feeling you might want to check soon, good work. Should be first listing of item 19 here, I believe cylinder block with pistons; oil sump - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2003 year] (7zap.com)

Not normal. Can't see how overfilling oil would be relevant, but that does need bringing down to a better level. Check that the coolant temperature sensor gives plausible temperature numbers when cold and fully warmed up.

No worries, it'll have that heater then, and I bet that's the problem.

Well, hopefully you'll come back sometime to tell us, but for now, here's a photo of the PCV valve on the back of your engine. On the side of it, at two o'clock in this view,, there's a two-way electrical connector which powers the heater I mentioned Ignore the arrow, that was to show something else. These have been known to fail short-circuit, so unplug that connector and try a new fuse. You can probably reach it by reaching round the timing belt end of the engine. If it's an early engine, it may not have such a connector, in which case it must be a wiring short to earth somewhere.

What year? I can check wiring diagrams for anything else. Think there may be a PCV valve heater. @Denok; I can't help without this info.

Did you clear the codes after fitting the new battery?

What year is the car?

Yeah, there will be dozens and dozens of variations. Unless someone has exactly the same model from the same month of manufacture with same engine and all the same options it's difficult to know what the exact layout should look like. If you have no reason to think it's been messed with, it's almost certainly correct.

Dunno. Something that your car with its particular engine type and options package doesn't need.

Is there any problem with the car? Different engines, different options, there will be many variants of fusebox contents. If everything works, leave it alone. It connects what would be connected by a relay if there was one in that position and it was energised.

Why wait til it breaks? Because the car may well not last long enough for that to happen, so you'd be completely wasting time, effort and money by changing something that is working fine. Research the job a bit on youtube, you may change your mind.

Change straight up from 1st to 3rd.

72mm, I think for the bearings/tool.

That is an absolutely rubbish reason for changing bearings, Change when something is not working correctly, not just for the sake of it. Ours have never been done (front or rear) and the car has 176k miles on it, no sign of trouble at all with them.

8 years isn't bad going for a battery on a modern car. If you had a battery charger I'd suggest giving it a go, as lots and lots of batteries across the country will be going flat lately simply through the combination of disuse and cold.

If it's the factory original, it could well be struggling, but measure volts and go by evidence rather than guesswork.

While you're measuring battery voltage (or just before or after!) try wriggling each fuse up and down in its holder, or inspect their contacts, see here: 02391 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) Don't be tempted to pull out more than one at a time, you'll lose track of where they came from.

Wiring diagram suggests it was an option from May 2011. The info about terminal 50 relay is from the non-start/stop version though.