Breezy_Pete

What failed with your BME?

BME engine I think you mean, as BDE seems to be a 2.8L V6? Which country do you live in? AZQ will have an EGR valve which yours won't (I think), so you'd have to blank off the port in the head that feeds that, but that wouldn't be very difficult. Not sure what other differences there are.

Check the two hoses discussed in the second half of the page here: Map sensor location - Skoda Fabia Mk II - BRISKODA the PCV output hose and the brake servo hose. If you find no leaks, proceed to get the engine compression tested.

Sounds like the right sort of ballpark. Parts aren't very expensive but there's quite a bit of labour time involved.

@DataLog Mk1 Fabias in the UK were all supplied on fixed service schedule without the oil level sensor, to the best of my knowledge. Elsewhere they may well be fitted to some or all cars sold. Have you seen the one on your car? What type (and colour) of warning light/sound are you getting?

Vent hose. Gaffer tape the split closed or expect to pay a bit over £20 for a new one by quoting that part number at any VW Group dealership, or possibly easiest by chatting to Mike: Genuine Parts Sponsor...Mikes back! - Site & Motoring News - BRISKODA

What happened to the old one?

Yeah I seem to remember reading on here that all UK supplied cars come with TRW. Should be 6Q2423061G I think, working from here: steering gear; track rod; ; no 'fi' function possi... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2002 year] (7zap.com)

Hi, welcome to Briskoda.

New and fully charged? Measure voltage across its terminals before and after starting the engine (establishes approximate state of charge and alternator function).

Does the hose that's been attacked appear to go to the engine or head rearwards towards the fuel tank? If towards engine it might cause an air leak which could make for rough running. Gaffer tape will probably suffice in the short term to prevent problems,

In answer to the title, this is breather line (item 2) of the charcoal canister, here: activated charcoal container; vent hose - Yeti(YET) [EUROPA 2016 year] (7zap.com) If you view that page on a big screen rather than a phone, you'll see part numbers in the table. sometimes these aren't visible on phones. Can't really tell from the picture if the damage includes o-ring or the canister itself. Disassembly of the breather line should show you.

No, exhaust valves can and do burn out even with perfect chain timing.

Charge your battery and try again. Should be 12+V Also check fuse 11 (5 Amp).

The diagrams are often shared between several engine types, so no concern there. I don't know of another way to test the oxygen-sensing parts other than fit to car and look for fault codes or look at measuring blocks in VCDS to watch live values.

I wouldn't worry about it. If the mechanic thought it seemed OK I expect it will outlast the rest of the car. I changed the one on our 2005 car at 176k miles this summer, and the parts that came off showed remarkably little wear. They could easily have been left on. Going forward, maintain the car with fresh oil (to spec 502 00)/oil filter at least once a year. Check the oil level regularly. Check that the radiator fan(s) work on both speeds. Fix any coolant leaks if you have to top up the expansion tank regularly.

I'm a bit confused by what you have fitted in each position, because this diagram claims the you should have 03E 906 262C fitted pre-cat, and 03C 906 262 fitted post-cat on CEVA. Item numbers 1 & 6 respectively here lambda probe; (behind catalyst) - Fabia(FABI) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com) If you go to the furthest right column there is a button with horizontal opposing arrows which shows aftermarket equivalent parts for each. For 03E906262C, 03E906262B is shown as interchangeable. For 03C906262 there seem to be hundreds of equivalents. I get the impression that if it has the right number of wires in correct positions within right connector, and a cable that will reach, it will do the job.

Yes, A/C drops water from the evaporator drain pipe.

The theory is that when braking, the alternator is electronically adjusted to give a higher than usual output voltage that can supposedly dump a lot of charge relatively quickly into the battery. This puts more mechanical load on the alternator, so helping to slow the vehicle. I've always had the gut feeling that the amount of time I have the brakes on during any of my normal journeys would make this energy recovery miniscule, if I had a car with such system.

Nah, it'll just be yet another complication designed to make the engine warm up faster and so score better in emissions testing.

I think the difference may just be in cable lengths and possibly connector types. What's your engine code, you seem to have some slightly different ones in India? You can find this code on the sticker with the build data on the trunk floor, or maybe on a sticker on top of the chain cover.

Test the removed thermostat in a big pan of boiling water? Seems to me that if removing it solves the overheating, then it may be the problem?

So that the car can keep track of how much charge has gone in since it was last 'in charge of charging', I believe.

No mate, the gizmo just senses the current going in/out of the battery and - when engine is running - can instruct the alternator to modify its output voltage accordingly. The gizmo can't stop current from an external charger going in. It's not a switch.

Take the stat out and see if problem disappears.