Breezy_Pete

MAP sensor power is a 5V feed on the red/green wire from engine ECU pin 96. Cam sensor uses same 5V. Will only be present with ignition on or engine running, I think.

Have another look at this area in daylight and maybe take another photo without flash. Assuming you find nothing remotely resembling a crack, I'd say there's no real need to get it inspected. Pretty sure it's a shadow thanks to AGFalco's input. On the other hand, various places advertise free brake checks so maybe just bung it into one of those for peace of mind, but beware of inevitable attempts at upselling if you do. Might be better taking it to a known-to-you garage who might check it free of charge anyway.

I'm not sure what made the noise you heard, possibly just a stone caught between dust guard and disc, now departed? As for the bar you mention going over the top of caliper and pads; there is another underneath. They are what prevent the caliper and pads being rotated around with the wheel and disc when you brake.

Some photos of the normal arrangement here SKODA FABIA 04 FUSE BOX 6Q0937550F | eBay Thick red wire connects battery positive clamp to underside of fusebox , black wire coming off same clamp goes to starter motor. As long as the connections at your battery positive clamp are OK, (they still look a bit 'rough') and don't get hot. it's probably not worth changing it again. That fuse panel is normally hinged onto the battery box, and has a cover over the top. You seem to be missing most of these parts, so be careful! Check that the downwards-pointing stud where the red (green now on yours) cable normally connects cannot touch battery negative post or any other metal if that fuse tray moved around.

The new wire looks to be nicely terminated, but would be better if it was as short as possible. It normally goes to a stud on the underside of that fuse panel instead of where it now is, which is where the alternator fuse and connection is from the factory. But if everything works, just be happy and enjoy the car.

That's a very good question. Can't be though, can it?

No, I've not suddenly had a volte-face and become an EVangelist, I just want to know more about how the dozens of electric motors in my petrol cars work, and preferably about how and why they stop working. Anyone work or teach in that area and know of a good resource for learning? Book would probably be my first choice, but online also fine. Details like why there are wirewound inductors in series with commutator brushes; what precautions need to be taken when choosing power sources, relays and so forth; whether slip-ring tarnishing can stop an alternator working out of the blue in an underused car etc. I feel I just haven't enough of a clue, and would like to rectify that. I'm not averse to learning about the latest developments but it's a more basic foundation I'm after. Thanks to anyone that can refer me in a good direction.

Just about to edit my last post that cast aspersions on the ebay seller!

Good idea.

Good news, well done. The car is less likely to catch fire now I think also.

Can't see anything else affected.

There should be a strip fuse in positon 3 for it on your car. It looks like someone has removed it and connected the wire straight to the busbar beyond. Cabin fuse 7 is an ignition on 12V supply to the PAS module which will also disable it, if that's easier? I'll just check what else might also be disabled with removing fuse 7, on your car, but I wouldn't advise driving without the PAS working anyway.

Quite possibly, maybe an alignment was done in the past and all of the adjustment done on one side, resulting in a wonky wheel, and then that 'fixed' by taking off and clocking round.

Important clarifications added inside square brackets, as I understand the reality to be. People shouldn't be scaremongered into thinking they won't be allowed to drive anything but EVs and hybrids on the roads ten years from now, that's just not true. After all, if you buy a petrol/diesel car in 2029 you're going to be rather cross if you can only use it for one year...

Very odd. The OE springs are the same on both sides, so why would aftermarket ones be different?

What's the engine code Leevi? (Appears on the sticker near the spare wheel) Is it the single camshaft 6-valve version or the twin cam 12-valve? A shake every few seconds sounds too infrequent to be related to engine balance, so might be a fault. Can you get it scanned with VCDS? Always good to check the brake servo vacuum hose for cracks and leaks on any VW group car. In the mk1 HTP engines the fully warmed up idle speed is specified in the ranges as follows: Engine codes AWY, BMD 610 - 830 rpm AZQ, BME 580 - 800 rpm. Does yours fit in one of these ranges? I don't have equivalent data for the Mk2 HTP versions. Don't know where @Murdockman got his 1000+ information.

Seems like an ideal arrangement. Probably can be checked by simply feeling for warmth with a little fingertip.

Looks to be 90 degrees to me.

Last time I looked at the wiring to an airbag ECU, the only power feeds it had were ignition-on ones. That was on a different and much older Skoda model, and I don't have wiring diagrams for Kodiaq so can't check, unless they're amongst Arkaig's offerings? Now checked and also true in Kodiaq; probably also for all other 21st century Skoda models as what I'd previously looked at was Mk1 Fabia. So ignition on or engine running are the only times the airbags can deploy.

Photo?

Looking at it, once you have all the nuts/bolts out, you may be able to pull the cooler up for better access to the coolant hose clips.

Undo 2 bolts holding top of pipe to underside of EGR, 6mm hex bit required on M8 bolts by the looks of it. Undo two bolts or nuts (probably the latter) at other end of pipe. Possibly 12mm nuts, exhaust fittings often are, use penetrating oil several times over preceeding day or two. Undo single bracket bolt. Undo two water hose clips (remote hose clip tool will be useful for that blue-arrowed one, for access reasons. Great tool to have for any though.) If you tie the two coolant hoses up to the bonnet before you start, and rapidly tighten each string as the hoses ends come free, you'll probably be able to keep coolant loss to a minimum, as they are already quite high in the system. Buy new gaskets for both ends if they don't come with the replacement cooler, but they probably will, unless you buy genuine.

That section is for the 1.6 engine, yours is 1.4. Very different.

LCD display is a more appropriate technology for this, which is why it's used for permanently displayed info on dash panels. It only uses current when the reading changes, so is very much less draining. On the other hand, unless backlit by LEDs (defeating the low-current aim) it's not visible in low light or darkness without a torch. It's rare that my phone torch is unable to do this job from outside drivers door though, so not really an impediment. Mine - in my 9N Polo - is cobbled together in an ugly fashion as seen below. (I'm a function over fashion type person). The switch chooses between a wire going directly to battery + and one going to D+ of the alternator, both have fuses inline just in case. The negative connection goes direct to battery negative. It uses just 0.5mA.