Breezy_Pete

Put up with endless pop-ups and navigate your way to what you need starting from here: Skoda Workshop Manuals > Octavia Mk2 > Brake systems > Technical Data > Brakes (workshop-manuals.com)

You're no doubt looking to be here really. Not clear if you want to be in a 'for sale' bit or 'free stuff'. Classifieds - BRISKODA

Easiest way to rule in/out that 'no low speed function' possibility is to pull the relevant fuse while the fan is running. If it's on the low speed, it'll stop, if it's running at high speed, it won't. The fuse in question is No.8 in the fuse panel above the battery. It's in the section to the right of the strip fuses as you look into the engine bay, probably under a clip-on cover. 30 Amp rated.

I'd certainly be interested in having a close look at the cluster to see if I can work out what's gone wrong. If it looks like I can fix it, you get it back FOC and you'll have a full set of spares.

@J.R. I've not done the job myself, nor do I fancy doing from what I've seen, but have a look on youtube for relevant videos of the replacement process/access. I watched this one recently, but I fear it is rather long for your taste. Don't remember noticing the electrical connection's access but I think if you skim through it you'll find what you're after.

Fact is, as soon as sepulchrave described it as a 'quick and easy job', I had considerable doubts that it could be the same set-up. Only way I could be sure is to dig down into which engine sep was referring to, and had worked on. No malice or hidden meanings.

You sound upset, take a while to calm down then you should apologise to the OP for talking irrelevance.

Got a book time for EGR replacement on CR engines, several hours isn't it?

I was asking because I believe that's a very different EGR style and positioning to the OP's. Will happily research it further.

What engine code was that? Link to part?

I would ask for in-depth details of Halfords' DPF flush service; cos I'd be quite doubtful about that doing much more than flushing out your wallet. If your EGR has lasted ten years without problems I would leave it alone, but start to put aside some savings against future replacement if you do keep the car.

There is one possibility that I hadn't thought of before, and that is that the low speed function on the fan has failed, leaving only the high/full speed. This will only come on at slightly higher coolant temperature or refrigerant pressure. When the fan is coming on is it quite loud and noticeable? I'll check wiring/fuse info later to see if there's an easy way to check for this possibility on your car.

I think your instinct to swap to a petrol is wise. EGRs on the CR engines are a massive pain to get to, and tend to fail through gear cog wear rather than getting blocked/dirty. DPFs just gradually fill up with oil ash. Don't think terraclean will do anything useful with respect to either EGR or DPF.

One of the diagrams on this page should show you: body Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com)

Never visit that lying Skoda dealer again. They should know better than to make something up that is so easily disproved.

Hi Richard; did you buy it from a Skoda dealership? If so, ask if they will supply you with the 'car data'. This is a pdf file containing a list of all the option codes built into your specific car and descriptions of them. If you didn't buy it through a dealership, you can obtain this file yourself via a web service called erWin, but it's a minor faff as you have to register on the site and pay a small fee for access to this information. How are you liking the car?

The only thing about the electric windows that'll need reprogramming is the one touch function, which is just about the easiest thing you could do. Radio will be fine if original factory-fitted one. No chance of any spurious behaviour of anything electric if battery disconnected. Try to ensure it is fully charged before you disco it, either by longish drive or using a charger.

Yes. Fix depends on whether its the heatshield that's corroded away around the fixing, or the fixing that's corroded away or fallen off. If it's the former, just make a plate out of anything you like with a small hole in the middle and sandwich the heatshield under/above that. Fixings are readily available on ebay etc. just look for a seller that will post internationally I guess.

Take your time and all will be well. Don't forget to clear out the headbolt holes/threads of any coolant or oil.

Fabia evap temp sensor - how to (with pics) (briskoda.net)

Body module is above accelerator pedal, central convenience one is above clutch pedal. Lower dash trim panel removal first, then clutch pedal switch off by rotating. CCM is in a holder that is a bit awkward to remove. Some pictures and tips in the how-to guide for evaporator temperature sensor replacement. Will link you to there in a sec. If the job isn't a rush, I'd be happy to try to fault-find your cluster instead if you post it to me. Couldn't promise anything, but it might save you a load of grief if I can spot something fixable?

Which posts, and what do they claim? Sounds like exactly the right thing to do, I would think.

Have a look at the inside of the pulley of the alternator, I think it'll look like this with just a simple nut in there, that's the non-clutch version:

I didn't think you were. It was wyx I was quoting and clarifying, not you.

Are you saying you've seen this code on the sticker? Or speculating? Part numbers for the bits on the 1KF option are here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/6/615-615065/ Match to those, or pick from aftermarket equivalents via the button in the rightmost column of the table.