Breezy_Pete

Numberplate light. Just unscrew the bulb holders and look at the wires. Most problems like this are obvious to the eye. If the screws are too rusty, remove the bulb, then test resistance to chassis metal from each contact of the bulb holder. One should have very low resistance, the other one no connection.

I'll see if I can find the plug part number tomorrow if no-one else helps in the meantime.

Time in seconds, I'd think.

OK, as sep says, not encouraging. Do a compression test.

I can't get that file to do anything on desktop or phone?

So, it's a grey/blue wire from pin 16 of light switch to fuse 36, which then goes to the number plate lights and also to the light switch illumination regulator. Grey wires coming off fuse. Become grey/blue again at a (pink) connector near the C-pillar at the rear of the car on the way to the number plate bulb fittings. Check both numberplate bulbs and the fittings they go in, as a short-circuit of a wire there to metal in the tailgate is likely to cause this problem.

OK, now I can look at the right wiring information.

What are the 7th and 8th characters in your car's VIN number? 6Y or 5J? I'm trying to discover if your Fabia is a late registered mk1(6Y) or a Mk2 (5J).

So fuse number 35 comes off pin 16 of the light switch on some early variants of mk2 Fabia. That does what I described before. I can't see a diagram where fuse 36 has anything to do with pin 16 of the light switch or the numberplate lights. What colour(s) is the wire coming off pin 16?

I guess you really mean fuse 35*, a 5 Amp one? It supplies power for illuminating all the bulbs/LEDs that light up the switches all around the dashboard etc. *based on the belief from looking at OP's previous posts that he has a 2008 mk2

Not sure yours will look exactly like this, but there will be something functionally similar. Look on the left end of the engine for the PCV valve and check the ends of that loop I've labelled output hose, especially the rubber coupling bits, they can perish and leak badly.

Ah, so the 2012 was a typo. It's a mk1. How many miles has it done? Does it do mostly short runs? Any misfiring at idle when warmed up? There's another pipe you could check for air leaks, I'll dig out a picture.

Yes, that's why I suggested checking it. Any uncontrolled air leak can make the engine run beyond its calibrations. Does the engine warm up fully, needle to middle of coolant temperature gauge? Really need to know what the numbers were from the emissions printout, i.e. how close to the limits was it. Might just need a brisk drive in lower gear to burn some soot out of the cat(s). Also need engine type so we know what we're dealing with.

Have you checked the brake servo vacuum line for cracks and leaks? They tend to go either side of the non-return valve near the throttle body.

What petrol engine is it? There are quite a few different ones. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia#Engines_2 Which numbers in the emissions test are causing the problem, CO, lambda or HCs, or more than one of those? Can you post a photo of the emissions test sheet? Does the emissions light show briefly when you turn on the ignition, before starting the engine? (A previous owner may have obscured it to cover up a fault).

It's actually 1113, length in mm. OEM one is 1117mm as shown in ETKA. Close enough to be sure.

I won't live long enough to see that; and TBH it's plenty of time to get used to the idea and adapt if you are young enough.

Items 4 and 10 are the two engine thermostats: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2013-697/1/121-121071/ Show him that picture and ask if those are what he changed. Item 12 is the G62 coolant temperature sensor.

Ask him which ones he's replaced. I don't know enough about DSG thermostats to know whether your car has one or not. If he can look at any live readings of the two temperature sensors with VCDS or similar, you could rapidly establish whether it's a real 60° by comparing the two temperature sensors. Very, very little chance they're both mis-reading.

Try on another device. Actually, it may just be too long since the post was made. There's a time limit for editing for non-Freedom members, I seem to remember.

Thanks for adding the link to very similar engine root. There may also be two coolant temperature sensors. The 'normal' one in the same housing as the thermostats, designated G62 in wiring diagrams/SSP/VCDS; a second one called radiator outlet coolant temperature sensor, designated G83. This one appears to be fitted in the radiator, just above the bottom hose connection, where the fan thermoswitch would normally be. It would be interesting to compare what it, G83, was reading to what G62 is showing, using VCDS or other scan tool.

The two circuits are said/shown to be for head and block. I'll post some snapshots tomorrow when on a big screen/keyboard.

Two thermostats, so the mechanic wasn't making things up. May not have been barking up the right tree, but probably making honest attempts to fix.

The SSP for the 132kW engine refers to a dual circuit cooling system on page 21 with two thermostats.

Relax @Powerred, this relates only to the sale of new cars.