Breezy_Pete

Take the one off the TB and see if there's a part number on that. Then get the other number.

Apologies for inadvertently muddying the waters. Listen to Tech1e.

Look at the part on the car, see if there is a part number visible on it. (Almost certainly easier said from this sofa than done in practice). Failing that, look at the next hose that it connects to on the way to the intercooler and compare its resemblance to items 11 or 6.

Yeah, it all looks a bit scary round that area. The wires going to the actual battery positive clamp look to be held in by not much more than a prayer in one of your previous photos. The latest photo shows three fuses that have been bypassed, including the one that the wire in your fingers (alternator output) should be going through. The crimp termination on that looks 'amateurish' so there is probably a significant contact resistance there which explains the heat. That will be lowering the voltage getting to the battery from the alternator too. Try to find someone with the tools and knowledge to make some better terminations on these wires. This is the type of tool needed to do these jobs properly, not something that many garages or amateurs are going to have. 16.0mm² - 120mm² Heavy Duty Crimp Tool (tlc-direct.co.uk)

Set the steering wheel central, look at the driver's side front wheel from in front of the car and make any adjustments to the steering wheel to get that pointing straight ahead, in line with the rear wheel. Drive the car forwards a yard or two without moving the steering wheel. Then take a look at the both front wheels and see how straight they look relative to the rears. For wear that fast I think you'll see a misalignment with mk1 eyeball.

Mustn't be pointing in the same direction.

Pin 1 white to ECU 110 Pin 2 brown to ECU 102 Pin 3 black to ECU 101 (colour change to brown white on the way after merging with another wire)

Have a look through the packaging at the pipe profiles at the ends where you'd be joining with coupler sleeves. I had one from ECP, not sure which brand, with a bleeding great lump of weld seam down one side that was never going to allow a good seal without being fettled.

Yep, green/white from pin 6 of EGR to engine ECU pin 100.

In the mean time, can I damage the car driving it with the EGR valve not functioning correctly? No. Will double check right now. Short-cut wire will be fine.

Massage guy was quite pro-surgery on the basis that if the other - now more heavily used - half of the biceps were to have a tendon failure down the line I'd be needing surgery anyway, or my arm would not work well at all. That's swayed me back towards thinking the op may be worthwhile. He also reckoned I might find it quite limiting to be without that 'cep' for my sailing hobby; it might even be a safety concern on the racecourse if something failed while on the water. GP surgery have referred me now on the basis of the physio report. Wonder how long it'll be before I hear from a hospital.

Something as cheap as this would suffice: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A02336471JUNE0E508DO4&url=%2FMultimeter-Resistance-Transistor-Continuity-Electrical-Black-Yellow%2Fdp%2FB07BMQ578Z%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2_sspa%3Fcrid%3D2AOFC233UQ3CE%26dchild%3D1%26keywords%3Dmultimeter%2Btester%26qid%3D1606747123%26smid%3DACF3DDDQW388N%26sprefix%3Dmultimete%2Caps%2C156%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1606747123&id=5219059326645010&widgetName=sp_atf

@GULF1 Is that what you're referring to?

There's an unconnected one on yours @TheClient pointing off towards nearside of the car at that end? Presumably there's a blanking bit of plastic inside?

Check with a multimeter for volts at pin 1 (yellow/black wire) of the 10-way connector (disconnected from light module) relative to pin 10, brown wire, when the dipped beams are turned on. Does the car have bulb-failure warning system?

Not sure about that one. Insulate the cut end with waterproof tape and investigate further when something doesn't work?

Lots of non-specific fault readers will only talk to a limited number of control modules.

Airbag light always seems to need VCDS or dealership equivalent to reset. It's one of the few that doesn't go away when the fault is resolved.

This must be the engine speed sensor connection, also known as crank sensor. Can you see any pin numbers on the housing of the broken part? If so match pin 1 on broken part to brown wire end. I can just see the numbers in the photo above, on the loom connector close to where the wires emerge, look in equivalent position of other half. The brown is 0V, the black is cable screen, white is signal. Brown and black may be connected within the engine ECU even though they go in on different pins. You can probably measure a small resistance between the pins of the sensor that are supposed to connect to pins 1 and 2 of the connector in this photo. Does that make sense? I can draw a little diagram if it doesn't.

Put the parts you've bought in your shed/loft and leave there until the current exhaust fails. "Crusty" doesn't matter. Likely outcome of changing what you've got is having lower quality parts on the car, damaging the front section/flexi during removal of other bits, and generally getting nothing for all your efforts. Yes, the middle and rear sections are one piece from the factory,

Is that a 3-position connector or 4? How many wires are there fitted into it and what colours are they?

CGPB is a 12-valve engine I believe. How many miles has it done? Has it been serviced regularly? What was/is the exact fault code number? Why were all these bearings being changed? The mechanic that did the bearing replacements really needs to get this car back and fix it at their expense, giving you a loan car until that's done. If that's not going to happen, then at the very least they should be doing or paying for a full scan of all modules to see what's going on with the car. It sounds almost as though the chain timing has been accidentally compromised. Do you have a few tools and willingness to check this yourself?, I can walk you through that.

Pin 1 black/red wire at EGR, +12V to solenoid from fuse 7 Pin 2 red/green wire, +5V from engine ECU pin 98 (Goes to 'top' of position sensing potentiometer) Pin 3 Not connected Pin 4 brown/blue wire 'sender earth connection' from/to ECU pin 108 ('bottom' of position sensing pot) Pin 5 purple/white wire, modulated solenoid ground from ECU pin 114 Pin 6 green/white wire, wiper of position pot to ECU pin 100. I'm surprised this fault is causing the car not to start. Check especially the pin 1 and pin 4 connections, as those also go to other sensors, which may be the real problem with the starting. Don't buy the cheapest replacement EGR if all the wiring seems OK, you may have to buy twice if you do. Pierburg branded replacement advised, I suggest. Should have an adaptation done using VCDS after installation, to educate the ECU about the potentiometer resistances at each movement limit.

That makes me more confident, as 819/820 are familiar digits to me from the middle of pollen filter part numbers in other VW group cars. If you google that part number all will be revealed, I think. Maybe OD. is just an abbreviation of odour.