Breezy_Pete

This post shows you the picture I'm looking at: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/439363-up-to-date-citigo-fuse-box-diagram/?do=findComment&comment=4940837 Scroll to post by Sidi4

Just have a look at the other end too, for some reason the wiring diagrams only show the LHD version, maybe they're all on the left hand end?

Probably that, dunno. Be brave.

Bypass the EGR cooler and see if coolant loss stops? Item 87 in this diagram, so either disconnect both hoses from the cooler and connect them together with a coupler, or connect e.g. hose number 24 direct to pipe 15; if it'll reach. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2013-697/1/121-121035/

If there's a 12-position fuseholder under a trim panel on the end of the dashboard, driver's door end, almost all of the fuses in there are permanent lives. Fuse 4 being the only exception in the info I have.

My pleasure Brian. Fingers crossed for a fix in the next few days.

Given their rarity, I'm almost tempted to buy one of those myself as an investment, even though none of the cars I look after has that style.

That's a LHD drive one I think @Tech1e The ebay auction I've linked is for new genuine, just wish the OP would look at it!

Four of them there @Daddyfixitsnew1

What number is the fault code that's occurring?

You don't. Use it if you need to be cooler than the coolest setting on your temperature dial, or if the car is getting misted up. No need to use it any other time. A small amount of refrigerant circulates all the time on modern clutchless A/C systems (like in your car) even when the system is switched off, so the argument about 'seals drying out if you don't use it' doesn't really apply.

Fuse 17 for left, 18 for right. If it is the fuse, the sidelight at the front will be out on same side.

Yep

Two thoughts: You/the garage say the sensor wiring was tested for continuity, but what about short-circuit to each other or either to chassis? If it does come to module replacement, consider a secondhand part for much less cash? in some cases the electronics section can be unbolted from the hydraulic part, which might make partial replacement considerably easier. What part number is your module?

Very odd. It's back how it was now? But the OP must've seen it in same form you did (and I did just now), cos he commented on it being LHD only. :spooky:

^ I'm confused Lee. Isn't that ebay link of yours the same auction as sep linked to? For a later, non-captive-cable sensor? Edit; OK, I'm pretty sure his link used to go to that same auction, but now goes to one for the correct style, but maybe LHD version? Not seeing PN? @Daddyfixitsnew1 Here's one for correct part with matching PN: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Genuine-Audi-VW-Seat-Skoda-Steering-Angle-Sensor-6Q2-423-291-A/203070035069?hash=item2f47ead47d:g:XmIAAOSw6v5fLSOg

OK, that's good; just ruling out a charging system fault (very common one). Whereabouts are you based? Could do with hooking up VCDS to it.

Does the battery light come on with ignition?

The grease will do no harm at all, I'd just leave it.

Someone squirted spray grease around the same area on ours before our ownership, no idea why.

I think it's the second fuse up in that pic, and there's the vaguest hint of crack there, but it could easily just be dirt. Try poking it gently downwards, if cracked it'll break.

That was quick! Captive cable one used up 'til VIN number ending 731254 with model-year 2003 (tenth VIN digit = 3) or earlier. Item 18 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2002-225/4/423-423040/

Think that's the later type isn't it sep? The OP's will be the one with cable captive at sensor. Non-interchangeable I think, even with an adapter loom, 'cos the rack's also different. @Tech1e please confirm/correct me if you don't mind?

If you have the knowledge/skills to decode the data stream, I for one would be very interested in what it revealed. I suspect you won't be able to resist the challenge? VW's charging strategy will include many factors, but making the battery last as long as possible probably isn't one of them.

Not sure how similar or different a mk2 is from a mk1, but on a mk1, taking the whole door off is surprisingly easy (unplug wiring connectors, undo door check-strap by single bolt on door, remove two 13mm nuts from hinges, lift off). This gives excellent access to the area from outside. Also on the mk1, there is enough slack in the loom to pull that cluster of connectors out far enough to get the individual ones out from the frame.