Breezy_Pete

No, that's only for engine code ATD, which is the non-vRS 1.9 tdi.

Being a diesel one has to speculate that it may be something to do with trying to stop the EGR system from doing its thing.

Looks a bit like it might connect here (but I don't know what that is):

Try to read the part number off the hose while you're there, the bit after TR-KRS-03L and before what looks like 005 AF. Can't tell if it's just dirt hiding the middle bit, or its worn off.

Not sure how much this helps, bear in mind that the engine is in the bay longitudinally in that Audi, rather than transverse, when you look for yours.

Not unless you tell us what engine the car has.

What are the CO figures on the fail sheet? Is it failing by a lot or a little, in other words. Have you been doing a lot of short runs, and not much long fast stuff?

Better.

The one on our Fabia is definitely plastic, but 11mm across flats I think, so a bit more grabbable. I'd be tempted to leave it. Although it may well be mucky, unless you have reason to believe air has got in there I'd be surprised if it wasn't fully functional. The slave cylinder has a relatively benign working environment without extreme temperature, so even if there is a local slight water content, it's very unlikely to boil and cause trouble.

You can generally pop the lid off the diaphragm-holding part of the PCV valve, by releasing a bunch of plastic 'ramp clips' around the perimeter. Go gently as you don't want to break the clips but that would allow you to visually inspect the diaphragm for tears. On the engines I'm more familiar with there is a filtered atmospheric pressure air feed into the crankcase (a narrow pipe from air filter to cam cover) which helps to flush through the crankcase gases. If this feed were blocked up, and the engine has minimal blow-by, it could be that the PCV is working correctly, but there is no 'replenishment air' to replace what is being sucked out at idle. That's why I was suggesting that you check that the pathway involving pipe 15 is flowing OK.

Steel wheels. Never had a problem.

So you've got nothing by way of alternative explanations? ☺️ Seems a bit lame considering how confidently you rubbished my post.

Glad you didn't forget to thank @Carlston; he found the good stuff at the right sort of price.

Condenser is the big flat heat exchanger sitting in front of the coolant radiator.

Seems to be confusion between compressor and condenser here. Sanden is compressor, no? Dryer is usually part of condenser.

Make sure that hose 15 and its connections aren't blocked?

Struggling a bit to work out exactly what you have still. One or two radiator fans? What was the method suggested by Haynes for 'jumping' the fans? Which fuse(s) did you check? If there are two fans, is one fed from the other, wiring-wise, or does each have its own connection to the car loom?

Just top it up with (tap) water, but record how much you add so that the proportion of coolant to water can be corrected after the leak is resolved. Low danger of it freezing unless you don't get it sorted for several weeks. If you do want to use de-ionised water it's widely available from any motor factors or even Tesco etc. If you have Amazon Prime this looks like a good bargain that you could have on your doorstep tomorrow: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CarPlan-DIW250-De-Ionised-Water/dp/B00FRIH094/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3T612FNFKARZ4&dchild=1&keywords=de-ionised+water+2.5l&qid=1598374696&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&sprefix=de-ionised%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3

So how does it work? @Axle_of_weasels, you did realise that I was referring to the oil temperature, as measured by the oil level/temp sensor in the sump, rather than coolant temperature, right?

Don't know a lot about that engine, to put it mildly, including whether this is an appropriate page from the parts catalogue, but if it is, can you tell me what hoses 4 and 15 connect to at the ends not shown near anything? https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2007-419/1/103-103090/#15

I'll have to come back to you later on this, the wiring diagrams seem to have lots of options. Is it Climatic (manual control) or Climatronic (with screen)?

Having very recently been through a major engine rebuild I would say that unless you have a lot of spare time to DIY it all, it won't be financially worthwhile. I didn't go as far as doing anything to the block, just head and timing chain, but even those take a lot of doing. Everything 'sealanted' to everything else and over a hundred bolts to undo to get enough apart. The theory says that the piston rings and crank-related stuff isn't repairable on these anyway. Dropping in a replacement engine would/would've be(en) considerably easier and quicker, so that's a possible avenue to explore if there are any scrappies in your area.

An oil that did a worse job of lubrication would result in it (the oil) getting hotter, wouldn't it? In which case the temperature sensor would 'taste' it.

@Carlston; can you help this fella find a value-for-money, correct fitment front shock for his car? Seems like a tricky one and I know you have skills in this area.

Yes, G65 pressure sensor (not regulator; close to coolant expansion tank rather than radiator, I think) tells the car what pressure the high side of the A/C is at, which in turn determines radiator fan activation when A/C is on. Possibly the wiring from the HVAC module to the fan control unit is busted? What year is your Fabia?