Breezy_Pete

What about the power curve? Can you post an image of both? Or link to these data? I would expect it to be power that's needed to get up hills.

Oh that's good news that it's still working for some. The PR codes are dead useful on parts sites where there are several possibilities that need to be narrowed down.

The alloy has corroded to the surface of the brake disc. Nothing else to undo, but may take some brutality to break the corrosion bond. Make sure the car is safely supported before kicking etc.

Get a bunch of Amphours of charge into the battery and those figures will improve, which can only help.

Don't worry Kev, chimaera's right, but there'll still be plenty of customers for something cheapish that promises a lot. 50% of people are of below average intelligence, after all.

Problems with the PAS system do seem to correlate with battery state of charge issues. When 'busy' the pump can draw several tens of amps. Try charging the battery for a few hours and see if symptoms change? The rad fans also take a fair chunk of current (and are activated when A/C is on), as does the cabin fan on higher settings, so it all tends to depress the system voltage.

That's OK according to my reading of the MOT manual as posted on a previous page. I've highlighted the relevant sentence in red: 4.1.3. Switching Dipped or main beam headlamps must immediately light up when they’re switched on (depending on the position of the dip switch). Headlamps must switch immediately between main beam and dipped beam when you move the dip switch. Moving the dip switch must do one of the following: extinguish all main beam headlamps and leave on at least one pair of dipped-beam headlamps deflect the main beams to make them dipped beams Dipped beam headlamps can remain on or switch off when main beam is selected. Headlamps are not needed on vehicles first used before 1 January 1931. When optional headlamps are fitted: if one is fitted it must dip if 2 are fitted, either both must dip or one must dip and the other switch off Defect Category (a) Headlamp ‘on’ switch does not operate in accordance with the requirements Minor (b) Headlamp ‘dip’ switch does not operate in accordance with the requirements Major

Engine running figure is fine, others a bit on the low side. Do you have a battery charger you could stick on it for a few hours to give it a top-up?

You must do, otherwise it would.

Gravity?

Not a clue, sorry.

Pin 2 ends up at engine ECU pin 30 as a white wire, changing from yellow at pin 7 of an 8-way connector 'front left of engine bay'. Pin 1, brown at IAT turns to brown/blue at pin 8 of same connector and ends up at pin 79 of engine ECU (which also connects to the 'pressure differential sensor'.) Left/right are as seen sitting in the car facing forwards.

VCDS is an aftermarket software package that can communicate with and make changes to VW-group cars' electronic systems. Best wait for someone who knows what's what to come along. Paging @Rustynuts?

Could it be coolant? Not sure if that can give similar 'rainbow' effects.

Maybe the code also needs to match what is stored in the instrument cluster; which it won't once transplanted to a different car? I've always been a bit clueless about this stuff, but I think the instrument cluster and radio 'negotiate' about whether the radio is legit/not. Can probably be sorted out with VCDS or similar, if I am barking up the right tree.

Wiring diagrams are segmented by engine code, so furnish me with that and Ill try to help. It'll appear on the build sticker on the boot floor, and possibly also in the service book.

Well overdue for an update on this. I think it is going to be time for a refurb, but not the one I expected. The leaky PCV system fix has made it run without fault codes or warning lights, but the extreme judderiness of moving off unless revs are first spiked remains. I experimented with blaming the clutch hydraulics but got nowhere fast other than to confirm that for some reason all the clutch disengagement/engagement happens at the very bottom of the pedal travel, for reasons unclear. I (now) don't think that is actually anything to do with the strange behaviour of the engine. Will be playing about with extending the slave cylinder actuator length in due course as a possible fix that doesn't involve gearbox off. Endoscopic inspection of the exhaust valves suggests nothing obviously amiss there, but the elephant in the room - I think - might be the timing chain. At 175k miles with no record of it being anything other than what it left the factory with 15 years ago; surely it's getting tired? If you've seen one of these chains, and the sprockets it runs on, in the flesh, you'll know that this is barely more robust-looking than something you'd find on a pushbike. the tensioner is also pretty primitive, with no ratchet mechanism to stop it being pushed back if the forces on it aren't balanced by oil pressure. I've had the full kit of chain/sprockets/tensioner/seals/bolts kicking about for some time, so there's little to buy. I've recently stolen from ebay (£12.50!) a much more recent oil pump of the right part number, which incorporates the pick-up strainer and is immaculate, so that will go on too, and a coolant pump that I similarly acquired a while back may be included in the refurb too, although that isn't camchain driven so needn't be done simultaneously. Got myself mighty confused earlier trying to research the (biiig) crankshaft pulley counterhold tool, which I'd seen used on youtube just this morning by some German fella working on an AWY engine, but couldn't find any reference to it in the erWin literature for this engine (AZQ). Everything official seemed to suggest that the crank locking tool that inserts where the crank sensor goes was all that is required. Now I've never fitted that tool, but I home-made one about 8 years ago, not long after acquiring the car. It's just mild steel so I'm not sure I trust it against the 150Nm + 180 degrees tightening regime for the crank bolt. I suppose it has a good amount of leverage at the periphery of the flywheel, but I might play it safe and invest £25 in this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1845066239 The reason for my confusion turned out to be that it is specified for the same bolt on the 1.4/16v engines, and had been discussed recently on here. So I'd have it for whenever I get round to either of the overdue cambelts on my Polos... @Tech1e, I should just buy that, right?

Keep charging it for many, many more hours, but it's possible that the neglect has killed your battery.

Measure that before and after starting the engine, right between battery posts ideally.

Does the battery light come on with ignition?

No. Fumes 'condense' their hydrocarbon content onto the (huge) surface of the microscopic carbon particles. Then whilst the engine is running they are encouraged to 'evaporate' back off, and are merged seamlessly into the engine fuelling under electronic control. Condense and evaporate aren't really the correct terms but probably simplify undetstanding.

It works by a surface adsorption effect that is 100% reversible so it ought to last indefinitely.

He wants fronts though, it's the other fella that was after rears for a different car.

I had success a few times, a while back, with two or three different VINs, but I thought a few folk that had tried it recently had no luck. Perhaps @Bigtow would like to give it a go. I would try it for him, but if something bad happened to/with his VIN I wouldn't want it to be on me.

Hit and miss whether it's working from one try to the next, in my experience, but yes, when it is, it's great.