Breezy_Pete

Yep

Fan action can be triggered by coolant temperature, or refrigerant pressure, or both.

I guess you meant to write definitely 25? What happens if you pull 24 (10amp)

Are you sure it's not fuse 24 you're pulling? that one goes to the radiator fan control unit, which would seem logical.

Have you driven it? Or is this just with car stationary on the driveway? Yes, if a fault light is on, there's a stored code somewhere. Whereabouts are you?

I'll have a look at some wiring diagrams later and see if I can figure out anything helpful.

Was checking the front brakes on a neighbour's 2006 Fiesta earlier, which were actually fine. Check-sheet at last service/MOT visit in Feb had highlighted 'front discs below minimum thickness'. 20.6mm vs 21mm claimed minimum. So I do a bit of research and find that fitting details (on ECP site) for every disc brand that fits the car says minimum is 20mm... Sure enough both sides say 20.6 to the nearest tenth on my micrometer, nice and even, no massive lip, no bad scoring etc. Pads are about 50% worn, all the same. They offered to take £270 off him to fix this non-existent problem. Glad he asked me about it. Buuut, I had to shuffle the car about in the garage to get at the second side, and left it running after I moved it. Was slightly surprised when the front wheel started turning all by itself with the car definitely in neutral, as the tyre left the ground. it was only just going, and stopping and starting, but that shouldn't happen, right?! I didn't mention it in case it's trivial and not worth worrying about, but what do the Brisky crew think? I guess the other side probably would've done the same if I'd had the engine running then too, but I didn't, and didn't check.

OP actually says 'yellow light on', so current fault 'believed' to exist by the PAS module, or the system as a whole relating to the PAS module. But as I mentioned earlier, if the car hasn't been driven, or at least the steering waggled about a bit whilst engine running, I'm not convinced the PAS module would necessarily have 'realised' it was fixed. This scenario has certainly happened to me with an ABS fault. Cracked fuse replaced, but fault light remains on until the car has gone a few yards and ABS module has realised that it is now able to do its job. Then the light goes out, and stays out.

There will be a tiny VW-group part number somewhere on the plastic of the connector housing. Stick that number into ebay search and you'll probably find repair wires with connector plus pre-fitted short wires.

Have you actually driven it at all?

Check the bellows that covers the wiring between (driver's) door loom and the connectors at the a-pillar; is the boot sitting correctly at the a-pillar end? It needs to form a water-tight seal there, 'cos the connectors within aren't sealed. It's tricky to get it to seat correctly after pulling it back to check for broken wires, so sometimes they get left 'half-on'. Then water gets in and corrodes connections. Not saying this is your problem, but it's an easy thing to quickly inspect.

https://www.ross-tech.com/

Yes, probably hanging off a bracket on the left (your driver's side) chassis leg, near to the fan connector. Alternatively, you could disconnect the wiring connector from the radiator thermoswitch (just above bottom hose connection) and short the brown wire to each of the other two connections. Ignition on for this, and mind fingers/hands as the fan blades could injure if it does spin up. Brown wire to brown/blue should bring the fan on at low speed, brown to brown/green should cause full speed.

Ahhhh!

Can't see how that coding change could possibly have changed anything, TBH. Hope your faults stay away though.

Regarding o-ring material, the genuine one has a reddish colour, not sure if that helps? https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/047907601-camshaft-speed-sensor-oe-5977.html I would personally leave it alone. Oil pressure switches tend to leak because the internal diaphragm - which is directly in contact with high pressure pumped oil - starts to fail. Cam sensor isn't dealing with anything more than crankcase pressure, which should be around atmospheric if the breather system is OK.

Post a picture (taken as near to vertically downwards as poss) in your engine bay, of the area just in front of the coolant expansion tank, 3-way connector coming off the sensor, off a silvery alloy pipe. Item 14 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/roomster/ro/2007-481/2/260-260041/

Maybe check for ignition-on 12V at the connector for the idling cutoff valve, item 30 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/favorit+form+pickup/fav/1994-107/1/129-129040/ Edit, and that the carb earth line hasn't snapped off, item 5.

This is the big one to check:

It's not in that fuse section that you want to be looking, it's the bigger fuses to the right of there. Only if there was no A/C would it be the second one down in that section, as far as I can see. In the wiring diagrams it's called SA5, a 50 amp fuse in that row of 6 (7 positions with one gap to the right of the first fuse). It has a thick (6mm² conductor cross-section) red/black wire coming from it. I've been caught out by this before, where the wiring diagram only numbers the positions where it's possible to fit a fuse (so rightmost position is labelled 6), rather than all 7; but the Owner's manual and maybe the physical fusebox? labels all 7 positions and the numbers after 1 all get mismatched compared to the wiring diagrams. So it might be in position 5 or 6 depending on whether this same mismatch has continued in this model. There's another fuse to check, in the cabin fuseholder. Number 9 which gives an ignition live feed to the radiator fan control unit.

@Koreenium Is it the Climatic, or Climatronic A/C system? And I guess it's a Left Hand Drive car?

No, it looks like that may be an incorrect assumption. I believe all mk1 Fabia vRS's are 6-speed? In which case the oil used in the factory was G005100A1 (2.3litres), as per item 5A here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2004-225/3/300-300010/ (scroll down to the very last row of the table) That part number was superseded in 2009 by G 052157A2, according to this page: https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/g005100a1.html#replacements

I will investigate for you tomorrow ☺️

Let me know if it's not obvious which fuses are involved, I should be able to help.