Breezy_Pete

I think you can probably move the expansion tank enough to considerably improve access without disconnecting any of its hoses, maybe just the wiring to the level sensor. N.B. I think that connector has latches both sides that need to be squeezed to unplug it. 1 or 2 screws or bolts to liberate the tank from its mounting, if memory serves.

Yep, that's what I'm saying. If you look closely at some of the unassigned spots in the fusebox, they probably lack the springy metal contacts that would hold a fuse if one was needed in there. Check your number 34 location and compare with one that does have a fuse fitted in, making sure you pop that fuse back in afterwards, in the same spot. If the 50 in your username is your age, you - like me - should take a pair of reading glasses with you to check this out. 😊

Today's very good news is that the car made it home, and its owner is not unduly perturbed by the idea of it 'going under the knife' shortly.

A quick spin around some wiring diagrams suggests it's only used on the petrol engines. My guess would be that yours is a 1.6 diesel.

Great thought about checking on spare head! 😊

Will have a look shortly, but if it's anything even vaguely related to the engine; knowing what your engine code is would be an excellent start.

Thanks xman. There was a recent thread on a Polo forum in which a car (6-valve) had passable compression figures despite significant damage to two out three exhaust valves. I think this is possible due to the 'ratcheting-up' effect where the compression doesn't come back out of the test gauge, until reset between cylinders. I seem to remember that the test which concluded the valves were at fault was a subsequent leakdown test. @Tech1e has also often recommended this avenue of investigation if memory serves. Will check plugs and coils anyway ta. Also have a spare set of injectors somewhere that were cleaned by someone on here so long ago that I've forgotten his name.

Manual or automatic transmission? If manual try running without the engine cover fitted on your next 10 mile+ journey.

If it were my car, the first port of call would be a thorough inspection of the brake servo vacuum hose, particularly its junctions at the end of each hard plastic section. Feel and look for splits that might be causing an air leak.

@mrgf, read what it says about MOT extensions in your link.

NOx was the whole issue.

I believe you can/could go and get an MOT now, and always could at any garage that was open and offering MOT testing. You don't need to get one before October 3rd though if your current one expired after 29th March. https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot. MOT test stations are likely to be acutely busy around the beginning of October so may be wise to book it in sooner.

EPA/US stuff was clear-cut enough, hence settled (against VW, for customers) more or less as soon as it went public stateside. In the EU the law was written with less-sharp teeth as I understand it. Whether it was definitely broken - or a loophole was legally exploited - is exactly what the court hearings in each country will decide. It doesn't matter much what we personally decide.

I doubt it, but start here and keep clicking next page to see what it says. The hyperlinks within the text won't work unfortunately. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/power_unit/1.4/51;_59_kw_tdi_pd_engine/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/repairing_diesel_direct_injection_system/unit_injectors_summary_of_components/

I think the long-anticipated exhaust valve trouble may be rearing its ugly head on the missus's Fabia. AZQ-code, 1.2/12-valve engine at 174k miles. I bought a spare head about 7 years ago, after learning about issues with these engines: I think now might be the time to bring it into service. The engine has been sounding steadily louder/exhaustier over the last couple of years, despite many attempts to remove all possible leaks in the external exhaust system. Just recently it has got noticeably less smooth at idle, and driving it briefly yesterday morning, pulling away forward or backward at low revs feels like the engine's trying to jump out of the bay. 🙄 I suspect the idle unevenness is imbalance between cylinders caused by exhaust valve leakage; and this extreme jerkiness at low rpm is full-on, total misfiring of the affected cylinder(s). Anyone agree, or got alternative explanations? It still seems to run fine above idle, returning slightly above long-term average mpg, Hoping it will get home from its current location today, a reasonable distance. It's done same journey the last 3 weekends so I'm hopeful. Got a solid yellow emissions warning light halfway home last weekend with an upstream oxygen sensor code. Cleared and didn't re-appear during the week. Any way to inspect the exhaust valves nicely with head still on? I've borrowed a little USB camera that'll go through spark plug holes OK, but not sure I can get it to look upwards very easily, needs a teeny mirror that will have to go in ahead of it. What about with exhaust manicat off? Can't remember how much might be visible through the exhaust ports? I don't have leakdown test gear, whatever that consists of. Compression tested relatively recently with good numbers IIRC.

Far from a daft question that ^.

Pre-fix, the cars were more economical (lower CO2) than they would have been if they'd been designed without the defeat device. If you're referring to people choosing on the basis of NOx emissions and their impact on city-dwellers, I should think that would apply to about 0.000001% of UK owners at that time.

Thanks guys for further info. Relevant facts might be that the discs on this car have no retaining screws; and the hubs have studs/nuts to secure the wheels. So, as soon as the wheel comes off, the discs can rattle around retained on the studs. As you take the wheel off you probably give the pads a nudge back via knockage of the free-to-rock disc? I suppose that coupled with never usually having engine running in this situation caused it to play out the way it did. Sounds like there's no need to alarm neighbour by mentioning the observation.

Your engine code is the CGPA, gearbox code probably LNR. Got a feeling LA7W is a colour. Various online resources will tell you what all the others mean. I think AMB will be short for Ambiente? Trim level?

Yep, 100%. Welcome to the site. How many miles under its belt?

Have a look at the middle few digits of the VIN. If you see a 5J in there it's a mk2, if you see NJ its a mk3, I think. I've just got the vaguest memory of having been wrong about this before, but have a look anyway! Edit, you probably don't need to bother checking that. 3 pot 1.2 was replaced by 1.0 for mk3, apparently: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia#Third_generation_(Typ_NJ;_2015–present)

Much appreciated, thank you.

It might make sense if you find that the permanent live (fat red) connection is shorting - when wet - to the switched live (thinner blue/red) inside the fan connector. That way, when engine is on, the fan module thinks everything is OK, but when engine is off, the fan control module will see a (false) switched live and think it should be getting instructions from the engine ECU, which it won't be, so it'll go into an emergency spin-up.

Check whether fuse 24 is actually blown too.

Yep